Siadwell

[Ralph PinchParticipant @ralphpinch41762]

Hi gents, planking has come to a grinding halt, WHY? it's because I HAVE RUN OUT OF PLANKS LOL!

Got the big saw bench out yesterday, nice day! so out in the garden, good idea!! NO! every flower,every bush, every tree is now covered in fine mahogany dust………. little bit breezy!

The wife went ballistic when she came home from work lol

The wood is from old window sills ex conservatory we had, cut into blanks ready to size through the slit saw into………..yes planks!!

Also need to find some tubing and bar to make the prop shafts, will have a good look in the metal scrap bin in work tomorrow.

Ralph.

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hello Ralph

Just tell the Missus……The red dust is good for keeping the slugs away and a sort of compost and you might get a big kiss instead!

I once cut up a Mahogany door with a circular saw, into handy planks, when I built the chunyk Louis Heloise

I found it very satisfying!………….Summat for nowt for a change!

A picture from the archives

Bob

[Ralph PinchParticipant @ralphpinch41762]

You can spot the modelers at work easily, they make a trip to the engineering metal skip at least once a week, but as I'm in the shop a lot of the time I get first grabsy.

Being in the bottling industry most metal is high grade stainless steel, so when parts are replaced, the worn parts are always stainless, our operations manager will always give pass outs for scrap, as he say's "it's another form of recycling".

So lads think of the environment, get digging in them there skips Lol.

Ralph.

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Hi Ralph

When I was working on building sites the skips were a superb source of materials……happy days.

Paul

[Ralph PinchParticipant @ralphpinch41762]

So Paul we are basically admitting that we are skip rats lol

Still you can save a fortune by recycling old wood and metal, I never throw anything away that could prove handy, old brass water taps, brass pins from plugs, anything!

Had a 240v single phase motor under a work bench for at least 15 years, its now powering a home made slit saw, to buy one of these you won't get much change from £250, old Black and Decker drill circular saw attachment's, they make great slit saws and even have rise and fall adjustment if you do it correctly.

MSC Sprite was built for under £50 excluding the electric's using bits and bobs from around the garage.

Ralph.

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Hi Ralph

I'm sure that the lads on site must have thought it funny to see a guy in a suit rummaging through the skips but it was amazing what I used to 'recycle'

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Come on, Ralph

Time for a work in progress picture, please?

I now know what it`s like, following a boat build…….We just can`t get enough!

Bob

[Ralph PinchParticipant @ralphpinch41762]

Hi Bob,

not a lot to report, I'm at work on my 4 shifts, spent a lot of time making new planks, so the build has not altered much, the bow is starting to curve nicely due not in part to the well executed plans draw by Paul T, this build is very enjoyable and would recommend others to give it a go.

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Looking good Ralph

Nice workmanship too………Are you still planning on another layer of planks?

The mahogany looks really nice

Keep `em coming!

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Hi Ralph

The planking looks terrific with some really tight joints, the hardest part is yet to come as you plank and cut around the bow.

You will have to forgive Bob and his eagerness to see progress on your build, sometimes the members of the retired gentry forget that people in the real world have things like jobs which tend to get in the way of boat building.

Actually you could do us all a favour and challenge Bob to complete his build before you finish Siadwell, the Lady Joyce has been going for so long that it has started to take root.

Did you know that Bobs Lady Joyce was the original idea behind Shakespeare's Much Ado About Nothing.

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Now, look here Paul!

I`ve only been on the build since last July 15……That`s only about 11 months

It`s your insatiabell impatience that`s the problem

Don`t forget………"A WATCHED KETTLE NEVER BOILS"

I`m thinking about a maiden voyage now anyway………..Are we ready Duckie?

Bob

[Ralph PinchParticipant @ralphpinch41762]

Hi Gents,

Thanks for the kind comments.

Just been checking, laid the building jig and cut the first frame on May 5th, that's only just over 3 weeks ago!! so given that I work 4on 4off not too bad.

Yes Paul the worst has yet to come, looking at the bow stringers I am thinking of inserting beams between the first 3 frames to give more support and gluing area as the planks curve and end, will have to be carful to maintain the bow curve though.

Will not be over planking now, the planks are 4mm thick and are quite rigid when the glue dries.

Bobs right the mahogany does look good, think what it would look like with 16 coats of clear varnish as per the Sprite…… but I have not seen any of these vessels with a varnished hull, they are mostly white above the waterline, so it will have to be painted.

Now here's a question, how do I seal the hull????

Ralph.

[Ralph PinchParticipant @ralphpinch41762]

Another question has come to mind, now have the metalwork for the prop shafts, so I need to think about what size props to use before I set the prop shaft rake position.

1. thinking of 4 blade 55mm, will these be OK with 800/850 motor's x 2

2. do I have to get opposed props i.e. left hand / right hand?

Ralph.

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hello Ralph

I`ve used two 60mm Three blade props x M4 Thread………….Both LH Blades

There`s no need for handed props…….IMO

Two MFA 850 motors should be ok on 12v

I`m using 4 x MFA 850 motors, just for interest and with secret control gear

I sealed the hull with two coats of varnish…..On the inside

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Hi Ralph

Its worth bearing in mind that the MFA 800 draws far fewer amps than the 850 especially when having to buy ESC and batteries.

If varnishing the hull I would seal it with three slightly thinned coats of varnish with a light rub down between each coat, alternatively if a painted finish is required then I would use three slightly thinned coats of filler/primer with a light rub down between each coat.

I would also seal the inside of the hull to prevent warping / twisting.

Paul

[Ralph PinchParticipant @ralphpinch41762]

Hi Gents,

thanks for the info on props, motors and sealing, think that the hull will be painted, a varnished hull as well as the superstructure will be too much and would look out of place, checked on line again and could not find even one with a varnished hull.

Ralph.

[Ralph PinchParticipant @ralphpinch41762]

Marking and drilling for the prop shaft, Paul your position for the shaft through the frames look to be bang on, glad I marked them as these are what I used.

Now I have seen you all go on about 50's, 55's, 80's and other motors, how does this designation come about? is it motor diameter, length or what?

 

Edited By Ralph Pinch on 01/06/2015 12:09:41

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Hello Ralph

Glad the drawings are working out for you and thanks for the feedback, its always nice to be appreciated.

Paul

[curlyParticipant @curly]

Hi Ralph

As l understand, it means die of the casing, but as Ashley says don't quote me

Regards Curly

[Diede van AbsParticipant @diedevanabs87670]

Hi Ralph,

400, 500, 550, 800, 850 are types of motors with certain characters concerning power, torque, RPM and (max) voltage. Generally speaking, the higher the first number (4xx, 5xx) the bigger the motor – a 400-motor being about 27mm diameter. The other numbers let people choose a motor to their liking. The specifics of these types is unknown to me, but generally the x4x and x5x are slow-running, torque-ful motors I believe. But again: Don't quote me or take anything I say for being the truth…

I personally think you should use a pretty beefy motor, or an Abell-y construction – which in turn also already used 850-size motors, which are pretty beefy units in themselves already.

OR, just go for a nice big strong low-rev outrunner brushless beast, one motor per shaft and probably more than enough power to spare…

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hello Ralph

I like the Mahogany planking and it`s a shame to hide it under a coat of paint?

Do your own thing and high gloss varnish it?………Afterall, the cabins are your own creation

This will also seal the hull at the same time

The motors need to be eye catching when you remove the super structure at the pond!

I would suggest four motors, in two pairs as proposed to Paul for his Charlie Craft……..Take a look

MFA 850`s look the right size for all that space….And timing belt drive look awesome!

There`s no rush at the moment

You could hang on and see how my boat performs?

Looking at your prop tubes……They look rather close to the hull bottom?

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Bob

Not to put a dampener on your creativity but not all of your fans have the limitless funds that you have access to.

How much did you end up spending on your motors etc?

Re your comment about Ralphs propshafts, as Ralph has followed the drawings correctly the shafts will be in exactly the correct position, The design thickness for the hull skin is 3mm so Ralphs single layer of 4mm planks will be fine.

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hello Paul

Looking at your Former 4……The dimension from the hull floor to the propshaft hole scales at 25mm

No room for a chunky motor……….So it`ll have to be a timing belt drive

The motor drive costs are approx….

MFA850 Motors………….£24.00 each

ESC………………………….£28.00 each

Timing Belt drive…………£32.00 per drive set

He has to buy two motor drive sets anyway

It`s up to Ralph now……..I`ve built a Ferrari……..But if he fancies a Cortina…….?

I`m interested in his final choice

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Bob

Firstly we don't scale off full size drawings….we take accurate measurements.

Secondly the shafts don't pass through F4, the cut outs for the shafts start at F5 and to avoid clashing problems between chunky motors and the hull the drawings actually stipulate motors with drive belts.(see below)

Paul

Edited By Paul T on 02/06/2015 16:52:20

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Paul……On my drawing, the motor is between formers three and four

Bob

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