Siadwell

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Well said, Diiede

We don't want any aqua planing at all……It's not called a Gentleman's Cruiser for nothing!

I would like to see an attractive multi motor setup……Something to be proud off, when the superstructure is lifted off

The MFA850 looks right for the job and the timing belts just add that extra touch of eye catching curiosity?

Ralph……Don't sink the ship for a halfpeth of Tar!

Bob

[Ralph PinchParticipant @ralphpinch41762]

Thanks Diiede and Bob,

Yes I totally agree, as stated in a previous post "going hell for leather down the pool, it seems to spoil the authenticity".

Thank you for the motor information regarding HobbyKing Diiede, will have a look when the time comes.

Bob how much noise do the belts make?.

Ralph.

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hello Ralph

The belts make a nice sort of noise in conjunction with the normal motor noise

Anyway…….Make your own mind up……..Here is a demo video…..

**LINK**

Like it?

Bob

[Ralph PinchParticipant @ralphpinch41762]

B****Y hell Bob they certainty look the part, cant hear very well on my PC in the garage, but they sound OK to me, definatly like the look of them,

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

The cost of several motors belts and so on does not come into it if you are gunning for interest.

Interest is not a price but an idea. Bobs ABELL drive in the wossisname cruiser is worth every penny of his money.

And as for previous comments, i draw the line at emulsion paint.

Ashley

[Ralph PinchParticipant @ralphpinch41762]

Sorry Ashley,

Don't understand the last post?

[Ralph PinchParticipant @ralphpinch41762]

Well decision made, Paul will be pleased, at last one of his designs is being planked

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Hi Ralph

I am very pleased with your decision to plank the boat and look forward to seeing your excellent joinery skills being put to such good use.

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Well, you`ve done it now!

So far so good, Ralph………Looking good

You could probably use wider planks for the top layer?

Keep up the good work

Bob

[Ralph PinchParticipant @ralphpinch41762]

Hi gents, yes I have done it now, once its all done and I can turn it over, I will re-enforce the bow framework and plank joining area with extra gluing strips to increase the contact points.

there is an ulterior motive behind my decision to plank the hull, my Grandfather and Great Grandfather were both master mariners, Great grandad was the master of the Snowflake of Runcorn a twin mast top sail schooner built in 1880.

After the Siadwell is finished I hope to start to build the Snowflake, she will be a big model as well, got any plans for them Paul? LOL.

Ralph.

[Ralph PinchParticipant @ralphpinch41762]

Here is a painting of the Snowflake I have.

[Diede van AbsParticipant @diedevanabs87670]

Hi Ralph,

Don't forget to alternate sides when planking the hull, to prevent any chance of warping. It would be a bl00dy shame if such a nice hull with such lovely planking as shown on your picture is ruined by warping.

As for the motor choice: The ABELL units definately look and work the part, but for me personally I don't mind the looks with the cabin off. You never got to see the engines on the real deal either, after all… They tend to be tucked away under a hood with plenty of sound deadening in between. In the end it is a personal choice, really, if you want your actual drive line to be a form of art, or just a functional piece of machinery that "gets the job done" without any aesthetics to it. Do whatever you deem best for your model!

[Ralph PinchParticipant @ralphpinch41762]

Hi Diede,

Thanks for the warning regarding potential warping, I will balance the planking in future.

The type of motor's are still open but I will be making my own prop shafts and rudder's, I'm trying to make everything possible myself, not because of the cost but self satisfaction.

Thanks for the kind comments about the hull and planking.

Ralph.

[Diede van AbsParticipant @diedevanabs87670]

Hi Ralph,

I know the feeling of making up your own stuff, I try to do that myself too! Wherever I can. It is great fun and it also makes you less dependent on the commercial parties – which, here in Holland at least, have less and less goodies for the "real modelers". Most is speedy stuff nowadays.

Do make sure that your prop shafts are dead straight and lined up perfectly with the engine output shaft, lest it's gonna make a rattle and wear out quicker than you want.

Seeing what you have achieved already, I have all faith in you bringing this to a great end! Just take your time.

[Ralph PinchParticipant @ralphpinch41762]

Diede,

sorry for the delay in replying to your post, working my 4 days on so not much time to spare after work, thinking of making brass bushes to run and seal the drive shaft in, cut a recess for an "O" ring and thrust washer to keep it water tight, not sure if the ring would wear quickly?

Planking is coming along slowly, have started on the other side as you suggested.

have revised the concept drawing and altered the build.

[Diede van AbsParticipant @diedevanabs87670]

Hi Ralph,

Drive shaft-wise I only have experience with commercially available units of the cheap kind, from Robbe and Graupner, and they tend to rely on the lack of room between the end brass bushes and some grease in the tube alone. I use teflon grease with good results. (yes, teflon GREASE, not to be confused with the sprays).

However, for self-made, water-lubricated shafts I have seen a design here in NL where the shaft was supported on the wet side by a simple brass bearing, but on the motor (dry) side by a ball bearing – which in turn was protected from the water by a lip seal. Lip seals have a very low friction on the shaft and being specifically designed for this type of load, they are a natural choice. I think I would consider these instead of a plain O-ring which is more designed for static seals.

I quite like your deviation from the original model, it gives the boat a more rugged, serious appearance. We in holland would call this a "bakdekkruiser" I believe.

Edited By Diede van Abs on 22/05/2015 22:25:18

[Ralph PinchParticipant @ralphpinch41762]

Hi Diede, yes your right the "O" ring would not be suitable for purpose, will go along your with your advice,

This model is very similar in styling to my first model MSC sprite but much grander (I do like this style), I have a tendency to over engineer things and the Sprite turned out to be top heavy requiring radical surgery to correct, one of the reasons was that I clad the superstructure in 2mm mahogany planking and solid brass fittings, looks great with 16 coats of clear varnish…….yes 16……..see what I mean lol,

As I will be cladding Siadwell with the same but 1mm this time, the new incarnation of Siadwell has a greatly reduced superstructure, so I should not have the same problem, whilst Paul's design is much classier,the new version does look beefier, well it does to me,

Beefier is possibly not the right word but you get my drift.

Ralph.

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Come on, Ralph

Can we see the latest Work in Progress picture, please

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Hello Ralph

I think that your version looks more streamlined rather than beefier.

Paul

[Ralph PinchParticipant @ralphpinch41762]

Hi gents, thought you would be out to see the three Queens today!………… well not a lot of progress due to work commitments and this planking lark is very slow,

still here is a picture of the build so far.

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Looks very nice, Ralph

Might be a good time to think about the prop shafts, while you can still have easy access?

Bob

[Ralph PinchParticipant @ralphpinch41762]

Hi bob thanks for the support,

Yes Bob your quite right, I was thinking of mounting two pods on the hull with the props through them into the hull so would not need any struts, what length prop shaft did you use?

Ralph.

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hello Ralph

Just measured my prop shafts and the casings are 18 inches long

I used 6mm MS and screwed the prop ends………. M4 RH Thread

I realise they will get rusty, but will have a job on, with all the oil flying about!

Ashley

Pleased you like the new grey colour and my trusty portabell vice

Bob

[Ralph PinchParticipant @ralphpinch41762]

Hi Bob,

Just been looking at your build photo's of Lady Joyce, sorry Bob I didn't realize that your wheel dolly setup is effectively a pod mount for the prop shaft's, still imitation is highest form of flattery.

Thanks for the shaft info.

Ralph.

Edited By Ralph Pinch on 26/05/2015 09:01:56

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Ralph

I recco that you make similar wheel mounts, even if you don't fit the wheels, as you can use them as feet

You don't need a stand then?

Bob

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