Siadwell

[Ralph PinchParticipant @ralphpinch41762]

Hi Bob, apprenticed to Churchill machine tools many many years ago, back in the days when parts were not at the end of a phone call, if something broke……. you made a new one.

Funny thing is that after spending years in management, as I get closer to retirement I have gone back on to the tools, full circle so to speak.

You don't forget the skills, you just become rusty lol.

I will be borrowing you method if you don't mind, this will be my first venture into POF and as to the advice….. well keep it coming, its greatly appreciated, Paul and yourself are a great help to a modeling newcomer, don't like the word "Newbie" but I suppose its quite apt.

Ralph

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hello Ralph…..I knew you were a fellow Engineer………And no lathe?….lol

.I worked at Craven Brothers in Stockport for 14 years

Then Rowland grinders etc

Keep up the good work!

Bob

[Ralph PinchParticipant @ralphpinch41762]

Hi Bob, so we both have grinders in our past lol, we made and built flat bed grinders at Churchill's, spent a lot of my time on a state of the art (at the time) Russian horizontal borer machining the grinder bodies, so covered most aspects of machining i.e.. milling, drilling, boring and even slot cutting, all on the same machine, grinders, millers, radial arm drill's, capstan lathes, center lathes, even a really old Herbert collet lathe, a right old beast, so most machines in the shop. we even had to make out own tooling!, those were the days……….. like hell, it was hard work.

LOL sounds like all our yesterdays.

Ralph.

[Ralph PinchParticipant @ralphpinch41762]

Bottom stringers fitted and glued into place, small repositioning of inserts was needed to stop any potential lateral twisting, any voids in the stringer insert after adjustment were plugged with wedges from same material as stringers.

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

So far so good!

Bear in mind that the keel tapers to a knife edge………Not so easy

I bought a Power sander knife from B & Q…….About £40 and was a great help

Bob

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hello Ralph

Just bear this photo in mind when you start work on the Bows end

Bob

Edited By Bob Abell on 14/05/2015 17:52:18

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Come on, Ralph!

We need a progress report, please

Bob

[Ralph PinchParticipant @ralphpinch41762]

Hi Bob,

Not yet retired so I still need to work worst luck, as I work 12hrs and travel 1 1/2 hrs a day nothing gets done on work days, BUT here's my days off !!!!.

Have progressed a little! more 50% of the stringers are now glued in place with no problems, found the old Karcher steamer I thought I have dumped, works great with 2mm mahogany stringers laminated together.

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Sorry to pester you Ralph…….But your build is very special interest to me

I like your laminated stringers……..What a great idea?

Well done

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Hi Ralph

Looking good, nice joinery and tidy joints.

Paul

[Ralph PinchParticipant @ralphpinch41762]

Hi Gents,

Yes great idea the laminated stringers! wonder where I got that from? LOL

Thanks for the kind comments.

Bob your not pestering, I'm glad of the input, it's nice to see someone interested, now don't shout but I'm going down the planking route, planks will be 10 x 4mm mahogany, or might double overlap planks 10 x 2mm, need your advice on this, even if it's you must be crazy!!!

Will go down to my local builders merchants on Tuesday to get an offcut 6ft stench pipe to make a steam tunnel.

Ralph.

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Hello Ralph

Purely from the design perspective the easiest way to plank this hull would be to use the double diagonal system with 10 x 2mm boards.

The double diagonal method will make the bow a lot simpler to construct.

If you opt for longitudinal planking I would recommend more vertical framing from F3 to the bow.

For a steam tube try a scrap yard for a length of 4in pipe, for steaming long lengths I use a piece of scaffold tube.

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hello Ralph

Don't think you'll need a steam pipe……You've done the worst stringers already

Planking all over sounds a bit untidy?

3mm ply will give you a good hull covering, straight away…….Planks will need a lot of filling etc

I recco you just copy my example……Including the backing paper coat!

Have you given any thought to the motor drive?

I recco again that you decide after my maiden launch, as we haven't proved the system on a long run yet

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Bob

I cant see any problems with planking and I would certainly like to see it done on one of my designs, talking about design don't forget that there is an existing fully designed solution for the drive system that will work perfectly well.

Paul

[Ralph PinchParticipant @ralphpinch41762]

Had a dry run with 2 off 10 x 2mm mahogany planks, Bob your right no steaming needed but would 2mm be strong enough?

Thinking of a Merlin engine that would outrun your Abelldrive just LOL, probs 2 800's

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hello Ralph

Two layers of planking, with all that glue and filler etc would increase the weight considerably…….Think about that!

Don't fancy the idea, myself……..Have a little practice first?

Two motors won't be very impressive, speed wise, but four motors and timing belt drives etc would make your model special

Anyway, it's early days at the moment

Bob

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

Think brushless, Ralph. **LINK** or larger.

Dave M

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Hi Dave

Nice choice and they would certainly make the model quick across the pond.

But expensive when added to the individual ESCs

Its a shame that we aren't all retired multi millionaire ex model business moguls

Paul

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

I just totalled 4 each MFA 850's, £130-worth of pulleys, bearings and belts and four speed controllers. It comfortably exceeded the £220 I arrived at for two of these motors plus 2 x 60A ESCs. But it's rather academic because I couldn't justify spending that much to equip just one model, even if I had it to spend. That's why I don't make models five feet long.
I know of no-one who ever made much more than a modest living from the model boat trade. Most of us have a second job or a pension. If you find that hard to believe then imagine being expected to haggle over the price of a 380 motor mount………………….

DM

[Ralph PinchParticipant @ralphpinch41762]

Hi Gents,

regarding the power units, when I built MSC Sprite I wanted the sedate look, watching other model's sailing I noticed that some models look great in the water, then bang their going hell for leather down the pool, it seems to spoil the authenticity,

"Siadwell" I know needs to have the speed as well as the acethetics to create the correct look, so I have made a monumental decision, "you lot sort it" lol, I haven't got a clue!

I'll put a pulse jet on if needed, mount it on the cabin roof, now that would be different.

Will finish the stringers today I hope, then will blend them in with the correct angles of each frame, then it will be "to plank or not to plank! that is the question".

Ralph.

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Hi Dave

You are of course correct in your comments and having done the sums myself its quite obvious where the best value is not only for price but also performance.

I am very grateful for your help and unfailing good grace with which you answer all of my idiotic questions and deal with my juvenile leg pulling.

Paul

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

Thanks, Paul (and no – I didn't give the cheeky b*gger any discount off his £1.50 mount!).

Dave M

 

Edited By Dave Milbourn on 18/05/2015 14:28:47

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Hi Dave

I understand your logic behind not wishing to build larger models but I just like to see them on the water as the larger models have a certain 'presence' that makes them seem better than the smaller models.

I also have a problem with fiddly little parts and thankfully the larger models don't have many.

Paul

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

There's nothing intrinsically wrong with big models; they do have an aura about them which smaller ones lack. It's just that they need a big car, a big lake, lots of people to help carry them and a big budget to build them (unless you're into using h**db***d, emulsion paint and scrap motors!).
The hobby would be very dull if we all did nothing but sail toy speedboats from China – "à chacun son goût".

DM

[Diede van AbsParticipant @diedevanabs87670]

Ralph – don't overdo power on Siadwell; although she is a sleek and fast looking boat, it still looks awfully silly if it ever gets on the plane and skids around the pool – let alone it'd probably become unstable and stops responding to the rudders, or worse.

Try to aim for a full-out speed where the wave pattern around the hull creates one trough in the middle of the ship and on bow and stern a nice wave (hull speed) which will be plenty fast for such large vessel.

If the UK suppliers of brushless motors are too expensive, just take a look at the Hobbyking range. They are a lot more affordable and generally of decent quality – although you get "chinese support&warranty".

Either way, pick nice and beefy outrunners with a not-too-high kV value. You can always ramp up the revs by using higher voltage batteries.

And just remember, that not all is in the motor or the props – the man behind the sticks is the most important factor of them all! (it is a choice to bang floor it and look silly, just as it is a choice to ease on the throttle and look the part).

 

Good luck!

Edited By Diede van Abs on 19/05/2015 12:40:30

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