It's funny how Kirby's technique was all the buzz back then and in lots of books and magazines.
Now you google it and nothing.
Actually in saying that I found hardly anything on B&B anywhere that was of much value to a newbie, I found the footage and photos on Grove Pond Yachts of more info than some places.
I hope this will become a lesson in its own right as wood is now so expensive.
I would have used the Kirby technique to this time but I could not get boards wide enough for half breadth with out paying HUGE amounts for it and also the cupping across such a wide board.
The advantage of this way is not only it is cheaper and more robust (provided the timber is dry as Richard pointed out) but that on a hull this size the 19mm thickness at 9-10 layers means the thickness of each is relatively small and therefore not a lot of wood to remove, I reckon I can rough this hull out in a weekend provided my arms hold out.
Its the final rasping, and scraping and sanding with long boards that will take the time.
I am thinking of sanding the tin canning effect into the hull directly…thoughts?
Once I sand I plan to do a series of epoxy coats, an old boatbuilding trick from the days of Epiglass products.
You mix west system and thin it 80% and saturate the hull, then again with 60% and then 40% and then of course un thinned, this has the effect of deep saturation and plasticising the wood, its used on boat bilges and areas likely to get wet, or at least it used to be.
The mark out the full frames and seams via a full zie print of expansion plan and then simply rubbing in soft hollows between any lines be they seams or frames.
Some of you may not know this but I also model ships in 3d for TV and Film models.
I have also been doing a digital model of this ship as well.
here is the same theory applied to a digital model.
Actually posting this here should be a good test of realisim so please comment.
Ignore colours




Ignore black areas, this is not a complete model

Edited By Richard H Dunn on 11/06/2021 23:12:02