TEV Wahine 1/35 Build

[Richard H DunnParticipant @richardhdunn]

Hi Everybody

I recently started a build of an RC model on a rather large scale of 1/35.
This is because …well I have the room and also because I am only 2 minutes from the model boat lake in Waterford Brisbane where I live.
I would also like to put in a disclaimer here that i have my wife's full support and I have just built a new house with a large workshop and adjoining machinery shop that is sound rated, I build guitars to so not being greedy…

I have to admit I had my ship model making interest re awakened by the Shemarah 2 build of Gareth Jones's (nice work mate, very nice work)
This ship was one of the most beautiful vessels built on the Clyde in the 60's.

I have many links to this ship in my past and have a massive collection of plans of this ship 200 original plans and hundreds of photos…I guess I have no excuse…..

Anyway many months ago I started a cad model of this ship to the plans of the ship, I used to do this for a job,that is cad modelling of ships.

The exercise was not too difficult as the hull is so familiar to me.From this I started to plan out the structure of the hull,how is the best way to build this hull economically.

I have to admit I am old school and wanted to build this plank on frame as much as possible.

I have attached some images of the cad model.it's rough and seems incomplete but that is only because it needs to describe the main surfaces.

After that I started cutting parts,I have to date framed the lower half of the hull up to what would be the vehicle deck for about 65% of the length .

The topsides will be ply sheet as they are developable surfaces.

Some pics coming soon

Edited By Richard Dunn 3 on 02/09/2015 08:16:42

[Richard H DunnParticipant @richardhdunn]

Setting this up to share this build and also to get help when I need it

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

Welcome to the Forum Richard, very much looking forward to following your build.

Colin

[Richard H DunnParticipant @richardhdunn]

[img]http://i.imgur.com/Pz7dIoM.jpg[/img]

[Richard H DunnParticipant @richardhdunn]

[img]http://i.imgur.com/zw3Wkgy.jpg[/img]

Edited By Richard Dunn 3 on 02/09/2015 09:20:42

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

Richard

You'll need to create an album to post your pictures. Click on the Camera icon marked 'Albums' in the pale grey menu bar right at the top of this page, and then follow the instructions.

Dave M

[Richard H DunnParticipant @richardhdunn]

So here she is in her prime just weeks before she was wrecked

This is the list of ship yard plans I have of her, some of these folders have 4-5 plans in them .

No shortage of information

Here are some of the frames ready to be printed onto adhesive paper for transfer to ply.

A big plus is the ability to pre bevel every part, out with the spoke-shave…..as can be seen here in yellow.

 

Now for the model as it is now, its all just dry fitted so far so not all joints are tight and fitted properly.

I have to date framed the lower half of the hull up to what would be the vehicle deck for about 65% of the length .

The topsides will be ply sheet as they are developable surfaces.

I hope some of you find this interesting and I look forward to input from other builders on things I could do in other ways I may not have thought of.

More pics soon

Bye for now

 

Edited By Richard Dunn 3 on 02/09/2015 09:40:34

[Richard H DunnParticipant @richardhdunn]

Thanks Dave yeah figured that out……

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Welcome to the Forum, Richard

We are all very impressed with your ……Workshop……..Model build…….CAD drawings………Confidence…….etc

Looking forward to the build

What will be the drive system?

Bob

[Richard H DunnParticipant @richardhdunn]

Ah yes
Now that is something I need help with, I have only built one other working model, mostly display models.

The working model I have done before was a lot smaller.
I was going to use radiator fan motors but I am open to suggestion.
I have allowed for cooling and have a clear 100 mm diameter space around shaft in motor compartment.

The shafting will be custom made and is to scale, as is the prop.

I will put up some specs such as speed, weight etc soon.

One of the reasons I am building the lower half first is to make installation of the running gear easier.

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hello again, Richard

As a matter of interest……..What are the dimensions of the scale motor shaft and prop?

Never seen this done before

What is the model length and width etc

If you welcome suggestions, we need to know this

Bob

[Richard H DunnParticipant @richardhdunn]

Thanks Bob
The props are 104mm Dia

Here is the actual plan. probably the dearest parts… as far as money goes.

The shafts are 550mm long from A bracket to coupling,I have attached ship plan and incomplete plan of the models shaft but the orange bits are bronze bushes the rest is brass with a stainless shaft 8mm I beleive

The Hull sizes are waterline length about 3900 mm and beam 615mm the Draught 150mm

This makes it about .2 of a cubic meter or 200 kgs

Ships top speed was 22 knots

I have way more info than this but I think that's what you were asking for…I hope…..

Ballast will be by battery and by floodable tanks.

All compartments will have forced air intakes etc using the trunks as in real ship, its easier and the box of that structure greatly simplifies and strengthens the build

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

That's a very impressive specification, Richard

Why a scale prop?

You'll save a small fortune with an off the shelf prop!

There's plenty to choose from

Bob

[Richard H DunnParticipant @richardhdunn]

I think it's just that I love the look of the aft end of this ship and I don't want to ruin it with inferior props.
I grew up with this image and it would not sit right with me to not be accurate.

Call me eccentric but that's how I feel.

I have approached a number of prop guys over the months and none have got back to me, they seem reluctant to make custom ones , even if I am willing to pay well  for them.

It seems odd given they have the plan.

Edited By Richard Dunn 3 on 02/09/2015 12:36:57

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Just call at the Prop Shop and take your photo with you

Your prop looks standard to me

Will you be sailing your model or will it be in a museum?

Bob

[Richard H DunnParticipant @richardhdunn]

I made a mistake with the shaft length,they are 860 long.

The 550 is the length inside of the thrust bearing.

The model is to be sailing but will be of museum quality hence the props issue.

I called Simon at Prop shop a while ago, hard to pin down a time when I am on the other side of the world.

The prop they have that is closest is one of the Vintage scale fine pitch ones but they don't go big enough 87mm being biggest,so that means they would have to make a custom one anyway.

I feel if they have to make a custom one anyway I may as well get it done to the plans.

I might have another go and get a quote.

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Ok Richard

Your prop shaft drawing is difficult to make out, being so feint

You will need a thrust bearing at both ends and possibly…..Water seals?

What type of wood are you using?

Being a Guitar maker…….It will probably be something exotic?

Bob

[Richard H DunnParticipant @richardhdunn]

Hi Bob

LOL

No nothing too exotic…it's too dear.

I have  not considered seals yet no, just the bearings.

The hull is made from 6.5 mm birch 5 ply with 3.5mm birch ply deck topsides etc.

The lower hull will be planked in western red ceder, it's cheap and nice to work and epoxy really adheres to it well. I have built 3 full size yachts before this way so know it well.

I took delivery of 4 160×20 x 3900mm boards last week that I need to re saw into 3.5 x 6 mm planks.

The rest of the model will be a mixture of techniques,I want to use etching as much as possible, I have never done it but having all the CAD side covered I figure it can't be too difficult to get set up.

I have sourced the resist paper and chemicals already.

I want to use this for all the parts that have openings or the upstands around decks etc as i can then solder or braise the stanchions onto this so it's strong, I also think that using sheet gives a certain rustic realistic feel.

I have used styrene before for models but the problem here is when it gets really hot it distorts and ruins models rather quickly.

Some other parts will be resin castings, another new process, but an easy one ,I intend using for anything that would be too hard to make any other way, anchors ,cowl vents etc.

I intend to fully light the interior as well as navlights etc, I have made preparations for this very early on so it is not too much of a mission , what i have done is allow for a second longitudinal bulkhead behind all surfaces that have ports or windows , this can be used to run wires and also to stop light bleeding from one space into another.

The hull will be glassed with a light weave of some sort and then all the detail added, intakes discharges etc and also the weld seams,I experimented with this a while ago and found that by scoring the primed hull on the seams after its primed to create a small groove and then super gluing a suitable guage wire .3-.4 of a mm is scale for a half inch seam or fishing nylon into gave a very good look and to scale.

Once glued on a rub down to flatten it slightly works well.

I have a full detailed shell expansion so layout is not too hard.

I want to try to replicate the plate ripples as well but very very subtly, I don't want to ruin the hull by going too far.
I considered the technique used in the Book Building a model dreadnought HMS Thunderer but I feel it would be too large a risk gluing copper to the hull, i want to find a way that can be done in the actual coating.

I expect to have the hull and hopefully the superstructures plywood base structure done by the mid next year…..

That's the easy part for me at least.

I have emailed Simon at Prop Shop again for a quote.

 

 

 

Edited By Richard Dunn 3 on 03/09/2015 09:16:17

Edited By Richard Dunn 3 on 03/09/2015 09:18:24

Edited By Richard Dunn 3 on 03/09/2015 09:20:06

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Thank you, Richard

You definitely know what you are doing!……..So I will shut up now for a while and just watch the action!

Keep posting

All the best with the build

Bob

[Richard H DunnParticipant @richardhdunn]

I welcome the advise.

here is a better image of the shafting plan I just cleaned up a bit

[Richard H DunnParticipant @richardhdunn]

I have tried to use standard tube and rod sizes to minimise the amount of lathe work to do.

I had planned on have a watertight box inboard of the bossing and seal that with a gland of some sort.

Other than that this is all I have

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hello Richard

It looks a lot of un necessary work, to me……Since it can't be seen?

You still haven't got a thrust bearing at the motor end?……….This is needed when going in reverse

Bob

[Amy jane SeptemberParticipant @amyjaneseptember49770]

Hi Richard.

I shall watch this with interest, being a Kiwi!

She was wrecked before my time, but is still imbedded in my national identity.

Amy jane

[Richard H DunnParticipant @richardhdunn]

Today I made about half the bow frames. I now only have 6 left and then its the bow and stern units to build.

I should be planking in 2-4 weeks.

I recently bought a new scroll saw, some of you might know it as Excaliber ..excellent machine!

So i have been printing my parts straight from Rhino 3D on adhesive heavy paper and applying it to the plywood with the use of reference points to ensure accuracy.

After todays efforts here is the progress,the large wedge panel is a web that will be removed later, it's just to hold the position of the bulkheads while I fit the tapered longitudinals.

Some better shots of the aft run

The dark strip is a 1mm deep recess I cut to house the ends of longitudinals, it just makes it easier to align everything.

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hello Richard

Looking good

How will you align the tops of the profiles?

Just curious, as we normally build hulls upside down and aligned with a sturdy spine

For easy planking

Bob

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