Wild Duck meets Eventide

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Lovely workmanship as usual Tim.

It’s great having yours and Ray’s build threads to refer to. That’s why I was waiting to start my Fisherman build! Only joking!

Chris

[Tim RoweParticipant @timrowe83142]

Hi Ray

I have soldered some brass tube onto some servo grommets.  These will go into the hull near the end of the build and joined up with silicone fuel tubing.  Thank goodness for the model aircraft stuff.

Tim

[Tim RoweParticipant @timrowe83142]

Making up the gudgeons and pintles for the rudder.  The fittings are riveted through the aft end of the keel and bolted through the transom.

The hole is to take a snake through the transom so that the steering servo is under the main hatch.  This means that there are no openings or hatches at main deck level.  It is a tight squeeze and if it fails and I have to move the servo aft, the hole will miraculously turn into an exhaust outlet.

Tim

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Tim,

I almost look forwards to the little bits of metalwork involved 🙂 a Pukka job, the old aeroplane habits are still coming through with the snake !!

Regards Ray

[Tim RoweParticipant @timrowe83142]

Dry run for the rudder. Still have the cheeks to put on and make the slot for the tiller.

Mock up pieces to get the correct orientation for the horn that will control the rudder.

Rudder in place showing the end of the snake.  I fed a servo extension into the stern locker just in case I have to end up putting the servo in their.

Rudder horn now mocked up so I know exactly where to put the slot for the horn.  It worked but with a smidge more friction than I would have liked.  If needs be I can go up a size with the steering servo.  We will have to see.

Tim

 

 

 

 

 

[Tim RoweParticipant @timrowe83142]

Crikey!  I have just seen that it is nearly a year since I posted on this project.  It came to a halt due to having to move, then the move itself, then the sorting out the new place and last of all re establishing a workshop.  Finally I am back to building models.

I did manage to get Wild Duck finished just before last Christmas which was lucky because it was a Christmas present. Eventide did not quite make it although it is nearly finished.

Ray Wood recently cam over to Mallorca as he did last year.  I hope he will make it an annual event!

We met up for an afternoon and I took along Wild Duck to unite him with one of his designs.

I would upload some photos but just hit a snag.  Photos from my mobile are HEIC files and the forum wont accept them.  If anyone has some advice that would be gratefully received as I hardly ever use a camera these days.

If I can sort this out I would like to start posting again.

Tim

 

 

 

 

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

Tim,

Go online and search for convert HEIC to jpg

There should be an option you can use.

Colin

[Tim RoweParticipant @timrowe83142]

Thanks Colin

I have had a look and its a bit cumbersome.   I have dug out the camera, found the charger and still looking for the SD card reader (can use a cable).  I have decided to keep the camera exclusively for modelling work and it now resides permanently in the workshop.

I would like to start a new thread on building an IOM Nimbus Mk 3.

Tim

[Richard SimpsonModerator @richardsimpson88330]

This is really simple and straightforward.  I use it to convert Adobe files to .jpg

 

HEIC to .jpg converter.

 

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi All,

Indeed we did have a good catch up one afternoon at Porto Cristo harbour, with his lovely partner Evelyn, the Yacht club is in the background , superb job of Wild Duck Tim far better than any of my rush jobs !!

Excuse the photo’s of my phone the quality is not great 🙂 Tim and I’s friendship started on this forum for which I’m always grateful 🙂

Regards Ray

[Tim RoweParticipant @timrowe83142]

Ray

Thanks for rescuing me with the photos.  It was a great afternoon.  Next time you come over we will try to have a regatta.

Thank you Andrew for the conversion link. I converted a few but the forum rejected them.  Thsi could also be because for me it is running very slowly.

Tim

[Tim RoweParticipant @timrowe83142]

[Tim RoweParticipant @timrowe83142]

Success at last with the photos. Thanks again Richard.

A few things to say about my Wild Duck that are different from the plan:

All the gubbins are accessible under the main hatch and the tiller is actuated using a snake.
I have used a small winch as supposed to a lever.  This controls the main sail and this jib.  To do this you have to have the sheet positions in relation to the swivel point so you can’t have the mainsheet at the end of the main boom.
There are two grooves on the winch drum and because I couldn’t get the distances exactly the same I preloaded the mainsheet groove with some taps to increase its effective diameter.  For each compete turn of the winch (Four I think) it pulled in a bit more than the jib sheet.

The main sail has a vang to control boom height and sail twist.

The jib is on a boom which means that it is fully controllable.

I sail in quite open water in our local harbour so performance is important.  Most of the mods are for sailing performance because I can’t walk around the other side of the pond!

Tim

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Thanks Tim ??  🙂

But who are those old guys in the photo !!

Kind Regards  Ray

[Richard SimpsonModerator @richardsimpson88330]

Lovely shots Tim.  Nice harbour setting as well but a good look out for the Sunday sailors will be needed I bet!

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Ray and Tim

I’m doing the preliminary work for the mast for Fisherman and could do with some advice please.

Thoughts are to use dowel of around 15mm diameter secured on the keel with a mast base or similar, taken through and restrained by the top mount for the keel (see photo – not secured yet) and then terminated at the underside of the front cabin roof. Top of the dowel will be fitted with a square of timber/ply to give something for the tabernacle to be screwed into. Is this the way to do it?

What is the typical diameter of a mast?

What thickness of brass did you use for the tabernacle? And approx. size?

Cheers, Chris

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Chris,

Supporting the tabernacle from the keel is good for transferring the load from the rig to the keel, dowel is as good as any 🙂

The position of the mast on the cabin roof can make internal access awkward is the roof going to be one piece ? , does the real Fisherman have an aluminium mast or a wooden one ? most of my designs of home built boats fortunately were laminated from timber which was handy as I like to laminate spruce, this also has the advantage of making it straight 🙂 I then plane the taper as required. As my boats stay rigged because of their small size the tabernacle is mainly for show, but can easily made operational for transporting by dropping the rig.

PS your planking is a labour of love, keep going this is good building weather 🙂

Regards Ray

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Thanks Ray. The mast is at the rear of the front cabin so effectively the reverse of your roof so I was going to have part fixed and part removable like yours.

Mine will stay rigged but I will use a tabernacle partly to echo the real boats but also if I need to remove the masts and sails for any reason. I think the masts are aluminium.

Chris

[Tim RoweParticipant @timrowe83142]

Hello Chris

The masts may be wood or aluminium and likely to be an oval section.  Aluminium probably made by Proctor.

Both Wild Duck and Eventide have spruce masts with brass fittings made exactly how Ray described.

Here is the mast support arrangement on Wild Duck.  It is a piece of spruce 6mm square which is more than adequate because it is in direct compression.  This supports the underside of the fixed part of the cabin top.  Later I put a small square mahogany block on the cabin top directly over the support.  This was to take the base of the tabernacle.

I made my tabernacle in 0.8mm brass but on your full sixed Fisherman it would probably have been galvanised steel.  As yours  in not load bearing you could make it in thin ply and then paint it white or zinc coloured.

This was my tabernacle. More of a mast step. The one on Eventide was much higher to theoretically clear the cabin top.

Here’s the one for Eventide ready for soldering.  I have started to make some fittings in Plasticard for the Thames Barge.

Tim R

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Thanks for the info. Tim. Are you saying mine won’t be load bearing as the bottom of the mast will sit on the cabin roof?

Chris

[Tim RoweParticipant @timrowe83142]

Hello Chris

I posted a reply a couple of days ago but it seems to have gone AWOL.

The bottom of the mast will always need supporting because of the rig tension so it it is sitting on the cabin top, the underside of the cabin top will require support.  This would be the post that transmits the compression load to the keel.

If your mast goes through the cabin top and rests on the keel nothing else is necessary but you have a hole in the cabin top that is difficult to seal.  This may not matter for you.

Unless I am building a boat for racing I prefer to step the mast on the cabin top or deck as no hole is required.  It also make the mast a bit shorter because the post can be made from anything suitable to hand.

I hope this answers your questions.

Tim R

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[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Thanks Tim. The Fisherman has a tabernacle similar to yours for Eventide as the mast needs to miss the upper cabin when stowed so I will make it out of brass like yours – yours looks thicker than 0.8mm?

Chris

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Chris,

That is a great picture of the Fisherman, does she have a drop keel on the real one ??

Regards  Ray

[Tim RoweParticipant @timrowe83142]

It’s a scary picture.  No deep keel and a lot of top-weight.  Radar, reflector and roller furling gear for the genoa!

Chris
I will measure the thickness of the brass and let you know.

Tim

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

Some interesting details and photos of the Fisherman here:

https://www.fairey-boat-sales.com/brokerage.php?doc=79

There was apparently 1100lb of iron ballast.

I think this would be a case where the original vessel worked OK subject to the usual constraints affecting a motor sailer, but when scaled down to model size the shallow keel is likely to give stability and directional problems. Apparently the original was not very good to windward.

You can certainly see the attractions of the full size boat for cruising though, roomy and versatile.

Colin

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