Yachting Monthly Eventide

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Happy Christmas to you as well Ray.

Chris

[sammykParticipant @sammyk]

Hi Ray I have started to build your eventide model yacht and enjoying it very much ,I have a question for you about the build .the frame or former for station 11 is not on the plan, I have made one from former 10 with the width made narrower following the plan is this how it done or have I missed something .regards Sammy k

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Sammy,

There is a note on the plan saying the transom ( former 11 ) is not drawn so it can be taken from the actual job this was because it is a such a raked angle I'd have had to think about it !! and I'm always rushing things !!

It could have a flat transom but I like it curved, it just seems to look better.

Good luck with the build

Kind Regards Ray

[Michael Cole 8Participant @michaelcole8]

Hi, I'm building the Eventide and would like to know what I need to fabricate the Rudder assembly please.

Kind regards

Mike.

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Mike,

I used 1/8" diameter rod stock and tube in the boat and a 1/16 brass rudder blade soft soldered together as shown earlier on the this build thread. I hope that helps.

Regards Ray

[Michael Cole 8Participant @michaelcole8]

Hi Ray,

Thank you for the Eventide plan in Model boat mag.

I'm not familiar with the term 1/8" Rod stock.

Could you tell me what size Tube I would need for 1/8" rod.

Kind regards Mike.

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Mike,

Assuming you don't have the 1/8" diameter brass rod yet , most model suppliers will sell you the rod with the right size brass tube as a good close fit so water doesn't come up the tube, although that's not going to happen as the top of the tube is well above the waterline.

Have you built models before ? we tend to take certain things for granted

We would in the full size boat world call anything that connects the tiller to the rudder a stock.

Regards Ray

Edited By Ray Wood 2 on 30/01/2023 14:47:12

[Michael Cole 8Participant @michaelcole8]

Hi Ray,

I was hoping to buy brass tube and rod locally from B & Q hence the question of tube diameter. I've not come across the term until now.

Kind regards Mike.

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Mike,

I must confess , I have never found anything that small at B & Q

K & S Models produce all small sizes of brass sections, I think its a specialist market.

I would recommend Cornwall Model Boats mail order

Regards /ray

[Michael Cole 8Participant @michaelcole8]

Hi Ray,

Many thanks for your help and recommendation.

I will get in touch with them.

The build is going well.

Regards Mike.

[sammykParticipant @sammyk]

Hi Ray, thank you for your advise I should read the words instead of just looking at the pictures I blame a senior moment for my lack of concentration I shall post a picture of the finished model when finished. regards Sammyk

[Michael Cole 8Participant @michaelcole8]

Hi Ray,

I'm having a problem with the 1/8 dia rod stock. Your drawing of the stock gives a dimension of 1/16 dia do I assume the over all dimension including the tube to be 1/8.

Kind regards Mike.

[Michael Cole 8Participant @michaelcole8]

Hi Ray,

Further to the above I've been told I would have to speak to a machine shop to get the 1/8 dia rod specially made. I've tried a model supplier near me and they advised same.

Kind regards Mike.

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Mike,

You are being given incorrect advice, the drawing annotation clearly states 1/8th brass stock, which is readily available at most good model material suppliers with a tube the same internal diameter to suit the rod.

The draughtsman who produced the drawing showed the rod too thin, and added the section of rudder blade ahead of the stock which is not required.

Where are you located ?

Regards Ray

Edited By Ray Wood 2 on 01/02/2023 16:03:44

[Steven S. 1Participant @stevens-1]

Hi Mike – this is the 1/8 brass rod and 5/32 brass tubing that we use for rudders. It is from K&S Precision Metals and can be bought at most hobby shops or on line.

[Steven S. 1Participant @stevens-1]

here is a picture of my 1/8 rudder stock.

Edited By Steven S. on 01/02/2023 17:08:20

[Steven S. 1Participant @stevens-1]

Just checked and Sarik Hobbies stock them. Handy is you are in England.

[Michael Cole 8Participant @michaelcole8]

Hi Steven,

Thank you for your help.

The information you have provided is just what I wanted.

I have this morning ordered the parts from Sarik.

Kind regards Mike.

[Michael Cole 8Participant @michaelcole8]

Hi,

Can you tell me the type of solder you used to join the rudder to the stock. I've read that Silver Solder and a powder flux is the norm for brass. The Brass needing quite a lot of heat to form the eventual joint.

Kind regards Mike.

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Mike,

Soft solder is fine for the joint if you intend to solder the blade insitu as pictured in my recent post of 30/01, the small heel to the rudder skeg could be omitted to make the rudder & stock removable. I wish I had done this on the prototype really, to soft solder the blade onto the stock you will need a large electric soldering iron of say 100 watts, or the old style iron heated in a flame.

If this was a power boat I would recommend silver solder as a much stronger joint, not required on this sailing boat.

The description of the build in the magazine is fairly sparse, as our Editor didn't want War & Peace and was aimed at the more experienced modeller with a fully equipped workshop, I hope that the earlier stages of the build are covered in this Thread.

Regards Ray

[mick eastParticipant @mickeast46851]

I noticed the full size boat has bilge keels fitted , what are peoples thoughts on fitting weighted bilge keels as well as some weight on the center keel instead of the bulb weight to keep it more in keeping with the full size boat. loving the build so far Ray

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Mick,

Yes there had bilge keels on the real boats, primarily to allow them to dry out and stay liveable on between tides,

The main reason I use a detachable keel is for folks who may want to make a static model, the bilge keels are not very much use for sailing but are practical, real yachts with long or fin keels point much better.

As to adding weight to the central keel as it is on the fullsize and the bilge keels is all about the righting moment in a knock down, so the deep bulb keel is just better for performance. glad to hear your enjoying the build I know a few others are on there way.

My next yacht will be the Spring 25

Regards Ray

[mick eastParticipant @mickeast46851]

Thank you for your reply. I understand what you are saying and on reflection I might include bilge keels for authenticity when static displaying but have a detachable fin keel for sailing. This is the second plan of yours I have built and as I said I'm enjoying it immensely. The first was the Osprey hull that I modified into a Tasmanian Cray boat(lots of admiring looks and remarks at my local pond), . We get our copy of model boats two months after publication here in oz so always a bit behind in posting questions. Regards MICK East ( eastie)

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