Wiring Connectors – Options

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

Arranging the wiring is always a key part of fitting out our R/C boats and reliable connections are an absolute must. So often problems are caused by wires coming adrift or faulty connections which can be difficult to identify.

Many of us, including me, have traditionally used ‘chocolate block’ connectors, usually successfully, but they are prone to problems and some don’t like them.

It is however very useful to be able to easily disconnect items of equipment which might need to be removed or replaced and ‘chocolate block’ ones do easily facilitate that.

Recently the lever operated Wago type connectors now extensively used by electricians have found their way into model boats and come in two sizes. The smaller 221 size is particularly useful but, like it’s bigger 222 version, has featured wiring entry and exit on the same side which doesn’t always make for neat wiring runs.

I have just got my hands on some 221 inline connectors which I think are new on the market and am finding them really useful.

https://www.wago.com/gb/installation-terminal-blocks-and-connectors/inline-splicing-connector-with-levers/p/221-2411

They are very good value and provide a reliable connection that won’t pull out. I’m definitely a fan. There are lots of online suppliers.

Colin

[Richard SimpsonParticipant @richardsimpson88330]

Very neat Colin.  I know Wago connectors are popular in my own club and I’ve used them a few times and been impressed.

[Stephen GarradParticipant @stephengarrad28964]

Got some of them, they’re good.

[David Marks 2Participant @davidmarks2]

I make use of the pluggable terminal blocks sold by Component Shop. My main use being for the wiring feeding the lights (or other devices) attached to the superstructure of the model, when you want to lift the superstructure from the coaming to gain access to batteries etc. These are basically a double 12 way choc strip, with a male connector on one strip and female on the other and can be either 6A or 10A ratings. The downside with choc strips is the fact they are intended for wires/cables with a solid conductor as used for domestic mains wiring and therefore the multi stranded wire that we use “splays out” when clamped. So the solution to that problem is to solder the end of the wire that is to be clamped by the screw terminal.

https://www.componentshop.co.uk/pluggable-12-way-6a-screw-terminal-block.html.html

[Stephen GarradParticipant @stephengarrad28964]

The main problem with choccy blocks is that doing up the screw can cut through the individual strands of the multi stranded cable, especially the very fine cables in some models.

One way round this is to use Pin Ferrules aka bootlace ferrules which slip over the end of the cable and are then crushed onto the strands by tightening the screw and stays there if the cable is removed from the choccy block. You can get a crimper to put them on but its not really necessary. They come in many different sizes and saves having little bits of strands cut by the screw and then floating about in your electrics.

Have a look at ebay, there’s loads on there.

Stephen

[Richard SimpsonParticipant @richardsimpson88330]

I had the same challenge when I came to fit the aft accommodation and the bridge of the Ben Ain and I wanted lighting in the separate sections.  I also had more than one lighting circuit and needed to keep them isolated.  I found these connectors that plug in when the sections are dropped in place.  Tricky to get perfectly set up but work well when they are fitted correctly.

 

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