My Clyde Puffer

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My Clyde Puffer

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  • #119196
    Richard Simpson
    Participant
      @richardsimpson88330

      If you have a dig around on Google you will find many examples of a puffer hull painted up in the same way as yours.  Not just the Vital Spark but many period pictures as well show black only above the rubbing strake.

      Vital Spark

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      #119199
      James Hill 5
      Participant
        @jameshill5

        Thanks gents. Putting some colour on certainly gives it more life. I’m toying with the idea of giving the oxide area a really thin wash of black or dark grey to give it a used look.

        Fred , it’ll be sometime before it sees water. Lots to do yet.

        Jim.

        #119281
        James Hill 5
        Participant
          @jameshill5

          Given the oxide coating a thin black wash to tone it down a bit. Might give it bit more weathering marks yet but I don’t want to over do it. I need to look at a few more coloured pictures to get some ideas.

          Jim.20240317_191315s

          #119870
          James Hill 5
          Participant
            @jameshill5

            Managed to get back on the Puffer again.

            The engine house been completed with the roof on and I’ve fitted open doors, just to make it look a bit different. I may add a bit more detail to the engine house as it looks a wee bit plain, although from some pictures, they were. There doesn’t seem to be a lot of rivetting showing ,so maybe they were a welded construction. The wheelhouse framework is on top, ready to be planked, but I’m going to plank the rear deck first. Nothing is glued down yet.

            Jim.20240417_151148s20240417_151202s20240417_151238s20240417_151328s

            #119873
            Richard Simpson
            Participant
              @richardsimpson88330

              Nice neat woodwork, you’ve given yourself a stout framework on which you can now plank.  The wash makes a big difference to the hull.  Just tones the solid colour down a bit and adds a bit of tonal difference to make it more interesting.

              I would definitely advise creating a test piece.  Get yourself a reasonable sized piece of ply, prime it and then paint it with exactly the same paints that you have painted your hull.  You can then use that to try out any other weathering processes that you might be considering.  Far better to make a mess of a scrap of ply than your pride and joy.  Only when you produce something you are really pleased with can you then try it on the model.

              These are the type of things I do with specific things such as gunwhale stays etc.  For a hull side you might want a bigger peice.

              06-05-11-01WeatheringTestPieces1

              06-05-11-02WeatheringTestPieces217-02-09-02WeatheringArticle12

              #119883
              James Hill 5
              Participant
                @jameshill5

                Thanks Richard,

                I’ve noted what you did on your coaster build, plus, like you, it helps having done some weathering on locos that I have. Something to look forward to eventually.

                Jim.

                #119890
                Fred Ellis 1
                Participant
                  @fredellis1

                  Hi Jim

                  Your Puffer is just great, I must say your woodwork is one of the best I have seen for a long time.

                  I must say that your hull looks a lot better than mine, I think mine could do with a dark wash.

                  Looking forward to seeing how you do your wheel house, I take it you will be fitting it out. When you start the deck are you going to put a ply deck then plank over that?

                  Fred

                  #119892
                  James Hill 5
                  Participant
                    @jameshill5

                    Hi Fred,

                    Thankyou for your comments. My woodworking skills are very basic I’m afraid, there’s nothing special about it, a lot of mistakes made along the way had to be corrected!

                    I decided on the wash to tone down the brightness of the oxide colour which I thought was a little bit bright so I thinned down some Humbrol enamel with thinners and used a flat brush to paint over the oxide. ( the oxide was just a Halfords rattle acryllic which I gave a good while to thoroughly dry out before the wash.) I was a bit unsure at first about what I’d done , but once thoroughly dry it seems have turned out ok. It has different shades in it which look quite nice.

                    Regarding the planking on the deck, my first thought is to plank straight on to the bulkheads using 1/16th ply strips that I’ve already cut out. The wheelhouse will need some internal supports for its lighter planks which will help with the glueing. I need to study pictures to see about detailing the inside,

                    The forward decking will be planked over the ply deck that I’ve already made. The area around the hatch I’ve covered in card in the hope of using Richards idea of representing flush rivetting. I’m not sure about bulwark side support stays ,as a lot of pictures show boats without them, but it would be another bit of detail to try.

                    Still lots to do,

                    Jim.

                    #119900
                    Len Morris 2
                    Participant
                      @lenmorris2

                      Nice job Jim.  Wonder about water getting in through your open doors.

                      Len

                      #119925
                      James Hill 5
                      Participant
                        @jameshill5

                        Hopefully not Len, but if it’s a problem in the future, it’ll need looking at again.

                        Everything above the decking will be made to be removable, so if the open doors don’t work it shouldn’t be too difficult to put right.

                        Jim.

                        #120271
                        James Hill 5
                        Participant
                          @jameshill5

                          I started to plank the rear deck, but after getting this far, realised I’d made a couple of stupid basic errors. I’ve no idea why, other than not concentrating properly, so what’s already started is coming off, and then start again.It’s no good trying to get round an error, it would niggle forever.

                          So it’s planks away and clean up time.

                          Jim.20240508_125927s

                          #120275
                          Richard Simpson
                          Participant
                            @richardsimpson88330

                            Jim, just something to think about, not even a suggestion.

                            If you plank directly onto the edges of the frames like you have then the individual planks could lack strength.  Movement with age could lead to joints opening up and there is a possibility that you might not have a perfect glued joint around every plank edge.  Also the strength is only in line with the grain.

                            I would cover the deck first with a piece of ply, it doesn’t need to be thick, which will tie all the frames together to give a stronger structure, in two different directions, before adding the planking on top of the ply.  This will provide a much better sealed surface and a much stronger structure.

                            Just food for thought, it would be interesting to hear other opinions.

                            #120278
                            mmcp42
                            Participant
                              @mmcp42

                              might also make removing the deck easier if the ply wan’t glued, but just fitted in place?

                              complete noob so please ignore!

                              #120280
                              James Hill 5
                              Participant
                                @jameshill5

                                Your suggestoion makes sense Richard. I’m using a thinner ply this time so another thin layer would help. Not something I had considered before, so thanks for that.

                                MM. The centre section behind the engine house will need to be removable to access the rudder servo etc. so that needs thinking about.

                                Jim.

                                #120283
                                Stephen Garrad
                                Participant
                                  @stephengarrad28964
                                  On Richard Simpson Said:

                                   

                                  Just food for thought, it would be interesting to hear other opinions.

                                  That’s exactly how I’ve done mine for exactly those reasons.

                                  Stephen

                                  #120286
                                  Len Morris 2
                                  Participant
                                    @lenmorris2

                                    Hi Jim,

                                    On my Puffer I have a 10mm wide horseshoe shaped flange running around the stern bulwarks.  The deck screws to that.  Easily removable to leave the hull completely clear.   The planking, engine room and wheel house all fix to the deck.  Just found it made things a bit easier to work on clear of the hull.  On mine the wheelhouse roof lifts of and the floor comes out to give access to the servo and rudder chains for any quick lakeside adjustments.

                                    Len.

                                    #120877
                                    James Hill 5
                                    Participant
                                      @jameshill5

                                      Managed at last to get the rear deck planking done. It needs tidying up a bit before I sand and seal it.

                                      I took Richards advice and layed a thin sheet over the bulkheads and then planked over the top of that. On my plan, it shows a raised hatch between the engine house and the stern, so that will act as a way of lifting that piece out for access to the servo and rudder chains. I want to use some brass rod inside brass tubing to make location points for alignment. Once done, I can move on to planking and glazing the wheel house. After that, chimney and vents and assorted deck fittings and move slowly forward.

                                      Jim.20240607_121852s20240607_121917s

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