Spanish Fishing Boat Designed by JP

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi All

I have been a fan of Jim Pottinger's plans for many years published in Model Shipwright, Model Boats & MMI, as the construction is left to the builder, my wife has tolerated my model making addiction for 40 blissful years so far ! imagine my joy when she asked me to build a brightly coloured Spanish fishing boat for display in the lounge to remind us of our annual holidays in Spain, an honour never afforded my previous boats, planes or trains !! so here goes

The bulkheads shapes, traced from the plans and extended to a common datum and transferred to card templates with the centre's cut out and drawn round onto 1/8" birch ply the shape cut out on the bandsaw and the centres drilled with 1" diameter Starret hole cutter and finished off with a coping saw, I will be building her upside down on a MDF board as I did with my recent Cullamix tug build.

PS. Hopefully my wife will let me sail the boat at weekends

Regards Ray

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

[Graham Ashby 1Participant @grahamashby1]

That's pretty Ray. What colour(s)? Display in the lounge? Fantastic. Since the Good Lady Wife has given an inch, make sure to take that mile and get one or two others in there too

Graham

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Graham/All

I have been looking for suitable colour schemes on line, but that maybe jumping the gun a little. With a lovely piece of MDF window board purchased to build on we will press on with building a boat, a massive box of wood arrived today via TNT from SLEC at Watton, great service I only rang them on Wednesday

Started tracing the keel shape from the drawing on polyester film, extended to the base board datum, using a Flexi curve really great for copying curved lines coming from days ago in draughting ! I still use a pencil The bulkheads have 12mm x 12mm pads/rails glued on and arranged and glued to the base board centre line to keep the boat going straight in one direction. Regards Ray

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Keep up the good work, Ray

If you don`t mind me saying, I like to use a spine as the alignment guide

No doubt, you`re idea is just as accurate

Bob in retirement

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Thanks Bob,

Time will tell, I should be cutting the keel tonight, I seem to have gone out of sequence some what !! As I'm a planner in the building industry this is worrying

Regards Ray (Still in the office )

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

Just put the roof on first Ray and then the rest of the building can be constructed in the dry.

Re the boat, there is more than one way to do the job. A lot depends on the hull shape.

Colin

[Graham Ashby 1Participant @grahamashby1]

That flexi curve takes me back to my draughting days too Ray. I recently found myself using my old French curves to scribe a few card hull skin templates for the Sea Breeze. Haven't used those for a while.

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

Yes, I have a couple of flexicurves too, quite useful. For small, tighter shapes a thin strip of lead (cut from flashing) works very well and retains its shape.

Colin

[Eddie LancasterParticipant @eddielancaster]

Hi Folks, it's nice to read your comments about how you set about building and what you use, very helpfull to a newby boat builder.

As I am still house bound and having finished the construction work on my Grandsons boat, (it just needs painting) I have started to look at my next project, the Ardent, I have put together an order with SLEC, thanks for that Ray.

The next job will be to get the frame drawings onto the ply, having looked at all the usual methods I have come up with the following,and any comments would be gratefully received.

The frames are drawn half section so they would have to be flipped over to get the full frame. This hull has a double chine and all the lines between the keel and the first chine is a straight line as are all the other lines on the outside of the hull frames, the only curves being the top of the cabin, which I can get from the roof frames, and the cutouts to the inside of the frames.

As the frames are drawn with a centre line and a water line at 90 deg. I intend to use these as vertical and horizontal datum lines and to take measurements from these and draw directly onto the ply all the points of the frames and then simply connect the points with a straight edge,at the same time extending the frames up to a another datum parallel with the water line so that I can attach them to a building board upside down, as you have done Ray.

Can anyone see any flaws in this that I may have missed?

Regards Eddie

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Eddie/All

In my view building on a board gives you a chance to correct any errors in the frames before you start sheeting or planking, I've fitted the stern tube into the keel and removed at this early stage, the rudder position is challenging as its bang on the position of one of the frames, still I will think of something !!

Regards Ray

[Eddie LancasterParticipant @eddielancaster]

Hi. Ray, That is really looking good, with those frames so close at the bow there is no room for error! I am going to follow the same build sequence as you with the frames cut on the same principle as yours. Your photo's have been really helpful to me please keep them coming.My parcel of timber should arrive in the next couple of days having been dispatched today from SLEC, thanks to you for your mention of them.

Best wishes

Eddie

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Eddie just an idea. Trace the half bulkheads/frames using tracing paper including a centre line. You can then just flip it over when tranferring to the ply. Might be quicker and easier than plotting onto the ply.

Ray, are you going to use doublers where the rudder tube coincides with one of the frames?

Chris

Edited By Chris Fellows on 18/12/2017 17:34:10

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Chris/All

I have put hard wood fillets round the rudder position and drilled a pilot hole, this hull has some serious curves at the bow & stern, made a start with balsa planks of 1/8"X 1/4", I will be infilling between the frames at the bow & stern with block balsa and plenty of P38 filler !!

Happy Christmas to all back in the New Year

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Happy New Year All

The balsa planking has been completed over the Christmas break, plenty of cutting from sheet and glueing and pinning in position !!, I've tried to keep the planks running as straight as possible over the bulkheads, the next stage will be the balsa infill blocks at the bow & stern, she is going to be a looker with the flared bow I think ??

Adams Radial tank on a branch line train just passing

Regards Ray

Edited By Ray Wood 2 on 02/01/2018 09:57:54

[Graham Ashby 1Participant @grahamashby1]

Lovely work Ray.

[Eddie LancasterParticipant @eddielancaster]

Wow!!!

Eddie.

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi All

The balsa blocks fore & aft are going to be tedious, and cost a fortune in scalpel blades !! the blocks are cheap off cuts from Balsa Cabin, chopped up on the Burgess bandsaw then rough hacked to shape and then wittled with a sharp'ish blade, I will be using the faithful old P38 filler to fill the gaps

Regards Ray

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi All

I'm reaching the Magic moment when the partially cut bulkheads can be fully cut and we have a hull, but before I get carried away with excitement templates have been cut using foam board cut to fit over the hull to the building board which is the datum parallel to the waterline so with the templates cut down together she will sit in her new stand/cradle ready for marking the waterline when we get to that stage. Some more work with the P38 filler and rubbing down to complete, I was going to glass cloth and epoxy the hull but I'd like the planking to show so I may only give her a couple of coats of West resin.

Regards Ray

[Eddie LancasterParticipant @eddielancaster]

Hi, Ray,

Your build is looking really good, I am now at the same stage, ie. the hull is ready to be taken off the building board.

Between you and Banjoman I am picking up a lot of useful information but it will be some time, if ever, before I get as good as you two.

Eddie.

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Ray – I can understand you wanting the planking to show but just wondering won't it look a bit odd with the balsa and filler used at the bow and stern?

Chris

Edited By Chris Fellows on 10/01/2018 22:31:40

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Chris

Good point you raise, I may score some plank lines after the first coat of West epoxy and add some paper planks before the second coat to seal the whole thing, these boats in hot climes show a fair number of opened up seams above the waterline.

Regards Ray

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Houston we have lift off ! decided to prise beams of the board which had only been epoxied down, now a fair bit of carving of the fore and aft blocks to establish the bulkwarks thickness.

Regards Ray

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi All

Back onto the fishing boat, I'm building this as an ornament for my wife who fancied something brightly coloured to reminder us of Spanish holidays and having nearly finished my little sailing barge, I'm back on the deck beams and hatch coamings, the infills between the frames are to simulate waterways, as I couldn't face trying to cut a template for a ply deck in between them, brass skeg and rudder in place, have used water based sealer inside the hull prior to painting. Going to finish rubbing down and filling the hull when I can get out in the garden.

Regards Ray

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi All

Some progress with the below decks works, I have given the inside of the hull 2 coats of water based resin and will follow with a coat of humbrol enamel to waterproof the bilges. The rudder servo a standard Futaba salvaged from one of the many RC airframes up the loft, never throw away any electrical switches or wall sockets as they have valuable brassware inside, as used for the tiller/boss and grubscrew already to be mounted on the brass rudder stock, a adjustable clevis and 16g brass wire finished with Z bend pliars , card templates for the deck panels which will be 1/32" ply scored to represent the deck planks The stand has cradles of 1/32" ply strips with felt to be added to protect the hull from dinks.

Regards Ray

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