White Marlin

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi All,

The next boat off the production line will be this Thornycroft 50 ft yacht, which was built just prior to WW2 and became a Dunkirk Little Ship, fortunately given the original makers drawings, will keep you posted, she is 3/4" to 1' scale 37 1/2 long diagonal – carvel planking

Regards Ray

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

[Eddie LancasterParticipant @eddielancaster]

Hi. Ray, A nice boat in full size and should look just as good in miniature, you have already made a good start and I look forward to seeing the finished boat.

I am just finishing putting the deck planks onto Veronica, I will post a couple of photos next week.

Best wishes.

Eddie.

[Martin Field 1Participant @martinfield1]

Very nice, Ray. Good to see a cruiser modelled properly. Nice size too.

Cheers,

Martin

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Thanks Martin,

Should be quite elegant , proper planing hull with twin brushed 480's mahogany superstructure/cabin, chromed window frames will be a challenge

Regards Ray

[Martin Field 1Participant @martinfield1]

To get chrome effect, I make in brass and have them cast in white metal, which I then burnish to a chrome like finish. I've just done a Chris-Craft version of a Sea Hornet and have done all the deck fittings in that way. Just got them back and am busy burnishing. You may want to consider that, unless you know of a tame nickel plater. Actual chrome looks too bright on a model. But the only nickel plater I knew gave up because of hassle from the local council.

Cheers,

Martin

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Thanks Martin,

Burnishing the white metal is a great idea, do you lacquer the fittings to keep the shine? Was going to leave the fairleads etc as polished brass apparently they were gunmetal originally.

Regards Ray

[Martin Field 1Participant @martinfield1]

Ray, there is a very fine lacquer that was offered for polished brass when I lived on a narrowboat. That would be a good one to use on the burnished white metal, but I can't recall the name. I have some fittings that were burnished then polished a long time ago and are still bright. Also, to make a brass look, you just go over it with a Pantone marker in a faint yellow shade (other spirit based markers are available!) It's how I used to make white metal model car kits have brass radiators years ago.

Cheers,

Martin

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi All,

Some progress with the superstructure/cabin a basic 1/16th ply bulkheads & sides to be

overlaid with mahogany varnished

Regards Ray

[Eddie LancasterParticipant @eddielancaster]

Hi. Ray, A nice model of a nice full size. you'r not hanging about with the build are you? That deck looks good and I look forward to seeing it when finished.

Regards Eddie.

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Eddie,

Yes I'm moving on with this one ! But the hull took 3 months to plank, very tedious but worth it in the end, a walk in the park compared to the rig on a barge

Regards Ray

[Eddie LancasterParticipant @eddielancaster]

Now you tell me!!!

Eddie.

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Ha Ha !

But Your barge will be a thing of beauty and a joy forever

Regards Ray

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi All,

I think I'm seeing the light at the end of the tunnel on this one, the 1/16"ply cabin sides are overlaid with 1.00mm Mahogany sheet which has been a marquetry operation but looks ok when varnished, this is the way the fullsize is built, so happy days balsa for the cabin roofs next

Regards Ray

[Eddie LancasterParticipant @eddielancaster]

Hi. Ray, that first picture shows it's sleek lines, should be good on the water, I like the deck, it really sets off the cabin sides.

Regards.

Eddie.

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Eddie,

The deck is the same mahogany but should be teak the water based varnish leaves it so much lighter in colour, the oil based Ronseal changes the superstructure totally darker.

Regards Ray

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi All,

The cabin roofs have a 1/32" ply base strip to form a lip and sharp edge and the curved sections from 3/8" balsa sheet, the faithful David plane for shaping and the fine Permagrit block for smoothing to contour. Must be time to West epoxy the outside of the hull soon

Photos & text always weird positions on my posts !!

PS. David razor planes are great but have taken off many fingertips if not used with care when holding the work!!

Regards Ray

Edited By Ray Wood 2 on 30/10/2018 14:19:38

[Eddie LancasterParticipant @eddielancaster]

Hi. Ray, that's an interesting compound curve on the roof, and your ply strips is a very good idea, that will be stored away for later use if I need it.

I know what you mean about cut finger tips, I now look twice when cutting with a knife along a straight edge, to make sure all my fingers are out of the way!

The rigging is now coming along fine on the TSB but I need to get some different sized chain when I am at the NBS at the Fosse before I can finish it all.

Were do you put the topmast running backstay? If you put it were it's shown on the plan it will be in the way of the mainsail when it is let out.

Regards.

Eddie.

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Eddie,

Just had a look, topmast backstay attached to hull 25mm in front of leeboard trailing edge when hoisted up, if that makes sense? Will post a picture tomorrow. Never seems to get in the way of the mainsail

Poundland jewellery Good source of chain worth a look

Regards Ray

Edited By Ray Wood 2 on 30/10/2018 21:54:36

[Eddie LancasterParticipant @eddielancaster]

Thanks Ray I new you wouldn't let me down!

Regards Eddie..

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi All

Small steps forward this week, WM has chromed window frames and fittings, the solution at the moment is cut out the frames from card and wrap with self adhesive chromed tape and burnish down, this may be to bright for the overall effect so make need varnishing to dull it down abit, with acetate glazing glued on the back with my faithful canopy glue Formula 560 which dries clear.

Regards Ray

[Martin Field 1Participant @martinfield1]

Ray, I know it's more expensive, but I made all the metal bits for my several Rivas in brass and had them bright nickel plated. That way it looked like chrome in scale. There were just over 150 separate parts in brass per model to be chromed! All the rubbing strips round the edge and floor covering edging was done too and a lot of bits on the Big Block Chevies that Riva claim to be their own, plus the tool kit! It does set the boats off though. I'd put a picture up, but can't make this lark out on here. You'd think a forum owned by a magazine would make life easy, wouldn't you?

Martin

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Martin,

I imagine they looked fabulous in nickel plate!!

I take pleasure in trying to do stuff on the cheap I never throw a cereal box away !

I've also a shed full of stuff that maybe useful one day, but expect everybody has.

My did post some photos of the RAF Boats, so you already have an album here just add to it we would like to see your Riva's

Regards Ray

[Eddie LancasterParticipant @eddielancaster]

The only time I have found a use for something that I have had for years is 3 days after I have thrown it away!

Have been to the boat show at the Fosse today, met both Richard Chesney and Peter Simmons, two nice guys.

Bought a couple of figures and a dog for my TSB. plus a few other bits and pieces I didn't know I wanted!

Regards.

Eddie

[Martin Field 1Participant @martinfield1]

I looked at albums and saw your one, but nothing I could use. I just don't understand it and I see no reason why we shouldn't just upload from our own files on our computers. To be otherwise is outdated and cheapskate for a major magazine.

The modelboat (fireboat) forum does it, why doesn't this?

Martin

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