southern sea’s

[wayne quigleyParticipant @waynequigley28540]

now the weather being so cold, I have had a bit of time between sledging ,snowball fights and bed.so the boat has moved on some and here it is so far

Edited By wayne quigley on 21/01/2013 11:03:07

[wayne quigleyParticipant @waynequigley28540]

my boat so far

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Wayne. Looks good so far. Nice finish to the hull. Careful when doing the waterline, use fresh masking tape and press the edge well down…but I dont have to tell you that.

A wheeze I have used when using Black below the water line (as your boat is flat bottomed) is to put the hull on a clear table and cut a block of wood to support a round nosed indelible marker pen, and draw the line on, sliding the block/pen around the hull…then paint up to the line with black paint…Dulux or whatever, I like heavy duty stuff below the water. Get a very sharp line this way, and its easy around the curves front and rear.

What are you using for filler?? I can reccomend knifing putty or that stuff in a tube from model shops for filling your odd bits on the superstructure, as it is Cellulose based it dries well in the cold, bit better than water based products, polyfiller or what have you.

Ashley

[wayne quigleyParticipant @waynequigley28540]

thanks Ashley

the filler is car body filler

[wayne quigleyParticipant @waynequigley28540]

The hull finish has taken time with rubing down between coats.using painter touch water based gloss.I must admit I an not 100% sure that a water based gloss is the best ,but it is exterior grade and most paints nower days are not oil based.

Wayne

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Wayne. Gloss should be ok, I use acrylic varnish and that is ok for a few hours dunking. Ashley

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

Ashley has used acrylic varnish with success but I have had problems with it blooming and peeling despite being applied over an acrylic surface. A lot seems to depend upon how compatible the varnish is with the paint surface and this seems to vary. Of course the varnish is really intended to be applied over wood anyway so maybe we are chancing our luck by using it over paint.

That is why I always use the polyurethane sovent based varnish which seems to go on OK over anything.

Colin

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

i generally use the Acrylic varnish over matt surfaces, usually grey undercoat! I would imagine that a problem might be had using acrylic over a glossy surface and I cant think that i have used it on a glossy surface yet. Thinking on it, I have used matt polyurethane varnish to dull down glossy items in the past.

As has been mentioned, poly does tend to yellow slightly (or more depending on the number of coats) especially over time, so i avoid using it whn possible simply to dull things down. Does of course look very nice on wood, as it is what you expect to see on full size boats. Acrylic varnish does not yellow so my aircraft carrier decks thus treated will probly out-last me..

Ashley

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Wayne

You could try a compatible spray lacquer which will produce a clear, hard and high gloss finish without the problems of yellowing or extended drying times.

Paul

[wayne quigleyParticipant @waynequigley28540]

thanks guys

I was thinking of leaving the finished gloss as is and see how it performs.I'm thinking of having a heli pad on the front which is to be a print out which will need varnishing.any idea's of a clean varnish that will keep the print out colours chrisp.I was thinking may be a lacquer fist then varnish for strength

Edited By wayne quigley on 23/01/2013 15:48:19

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