Krick Felix – first build

[nighthauntParticipant @nighthaunt]

Hi,

 

after walking the dog round Kernsney Abbey quite a lot over the last year at the weekend, I’ve gotten temped and purchased a Howes complete package based on the Krick Felix.

I’ve not build airfix type model in over 35 years, but have done Warhammer plastic models, so not completely clueless.

 

the English instructions are a bit basic and shorter, and the first step I need is to trim the ABS hull – the raised front line is moulded in, so think it’s just 5mm above the indent I need to cut round the rest.

 

ive got a hobby wing 1060 esc and nimh battery – in terms of transmitter the set comes with an Absima 4 channel, however due to an impulse buy I’m going to have at least 2 models so grabbed a Radiolink T12D and extra 6 channel decoder (with gyro) – don’t need the extra channels now, but gives me flexibility but not too extreme on options or cost.

any advice on what i need for a good build tools wise? Any hints and tips?

in terms of impulse buys – got reading back issues of model boat I saw the build of Deans Marine HMS Lightning so ordered one which will be my second build – the felix should be a beginners build hopefully.

 

many thanks for any thoughts.

 

Alex

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Alex,

My advice is to join the Dover Model Boat club , plenty of advice there , this forum isn’t very active these days 🙁

The Dover club and members were well represented at the Southern model show at Headcorn last weekend 🙂

Answering your question, Stanley knife, sanding blocks & drills ……

Regards   Ray

[Richard SimpsonModerator @richardsimpson88330]

Alex, If you post pictures of the build as you progress on here you might find that you get more feedback and help along the way.  For a few basic tools think along the lines of the following:

Knives: Stanley knife for heavy cutting and scalpel or fine hobby knife for finer work.

Abrasives: A range of sanding blocks, wet and dry paper or sandpaper, and a set of fine files.

Glues: I still prefer good old PVA for most things with cyano or similar for quick grab requirements.  Two part epoxy for dissimilar materials.

Paints: As much as possible for a first build using rattle cans wherever possible should be the easiest and most convenient.  Detail work with either enamels or Tamiya acrylics.  Do a bit of research on paint types and always do a test before committing to the model.  Paint brushes, thinners and a mask for spraying.

 

Finally ask specific questions as you go along.  You will probably get more of a response to something specific such as “What glue do I use for gluing a brass shaft tube into a balsa hull?” rather than “What glue do I use for modelling?”

Finally, as Ray says, join a club, although in my own experience clubs seem to be dwindling in numbers and membership nowadays and those with experience are becoming quite thin on the ground.  If you post pictures on here as you go along there are still a handful of us who keep an eye out on here who will help whenever we can.

And just a final word of warning, I have built two popular boat kits over the years and, in both cases, the supplied plastic propeller was of very poor quality.  Both had almost zero performance as a result of having just about zero pitch.  I would recommend you don’t bother with the supplied plastic propeller and go to The Prop Shop for a replacement brass propeller.

[Philip OxleyParticipant @inonowt]

Hello Richard.

Re glues.  I’ve got some PVC deck parts needing to be repaired.  What glue would you recommend and could I use solvent weld adhesive used for pvc waste pipes etc.

As for tools, I would add a razor plane to your list.

Regards

Philip

[Richard SimpsonModerator @richardsimpson88330]

Hi Philip, the trouble with plastics is that there is a wide range of varying types with quite different properties and it is extremely tricky trying to determine which is the best glue for which type.  From what I remember PVC is a tricky one as many glues that normally dissolve a range of plastics frequently don’t work on PVC.

Consequently I would either go for a manufacturer of the specific plastic in question and use their recommended or manufactured glue or I would be sure to use a glue that specifically states it is manufactured for the plastic in question.  In the case of PVC this is a suitable glue, which is fairly readily available:

PVC Glue

As for any other glue my recommendation would be to test it first on a couple of pieces of scrap.

[Tim CooperParticipant @timcooper90034]

Lots of PVC adhesives on Amazon

Guess they are for PVC plumbing .

Should be available in Wickes or similar.

Tim

[Philip OxleyParticipant @inonowt]

Hi.

You’re absolutely right Richard.  I did find a couple of scraps of model PVC and tried ‘plumbers’ sovent weld adhesive since it is for PVC waste pipes, and it did work.  While using it, I was reminded by the smell, of Bostik.  So that might work too.

Of course it depends too on whether you can believe the product specification.

Yes Tim, I got mine from B & Q.  I don’t do much plumbing work so it’s usually dried up by the time I next go to use it.  Fortunately this time, it still had some life in it.

It is a nuisance having to buy, either in shops or online, a new bottle/tub etc. when all you want is 3 drips.

Best wishes

Philip

[Richard SimpsonModerator @richardsimpson88330]

That regularly seems to be the case with many glues!

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