My Clyde Puffer

[Len Morris 2Participant @lenmorris2]

Hi Jim,

We’re all in no-mans land at the moment but well done for getting at least one picture posted and it’s worth a thousand words!  It looks excellent.  I think the double line of rivets along the butt joints look really good.  Also the rubbing strip. Doesn’t look an easy thing to ‘rivet’ but I’m sure you’ll find a way.

Welcome back.

Len

[James Hill 5Participant @jameshill5]

Hi Len,

Posted two more pictures ten minutes ago but nothing`s shown up.

It says  ” post awaiting moderation ” so I`ll have another look later. They were definitely submitted.

Jim.

[James Hill 5Participant @jameshill5]

Having another go at posting pictures on the new system. Using these as a test after getting it wrong yesterday.

Jim.

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

Hi James.

Photos should be visible now. The intermittent moderation is a nuisance as there is no good reason for it and it has been flagged up as a problem with Mortons. Some people seem to be targeted more than others!

When it happens I get sent an email warning that the post needs to be cleared but I’m not online 24/7 so it can sometimes be a while before I pick it up.

The various stringent security procedures should be relaxed as the sites ‘bed in’. The priority over the last few days has been to deal with the ‘go live’ problems experienced.

Plating effect looks very good!

Colin

[Richard SimpsonParticipant @richardsimpson88330]

Plating has come out very nicely.  If you can enhance the effect with the paint job it will look superb.

[James Hill 5Participant @jameshill5]

Hi Colin,

Thanks for the explanation and for your comment. My failure yesterday was my fault. I didnt pay enough attention to the size of picture I picked from my file. There will obviously be bugs to sort out but whoever did the work on modernising the site deserves thanks. Without help like that wed have no Forums.

Richard,

Thankyou. I`ve painted some test strips using a Black Gloss as suggested by Ashleigh although I could only find a water based paint. I brushed water over it after it was dry and it seemed to repel it quite well, so fingers crossed.

Jim.

 

[James Hill 5Participant @jameshill5]

Managed to fit a few more bits, mainly the rubbing strips.

I had to cut the back of the dowel to help with the bending after sanding a flat on the surface to help with glueing and I`ve simulated the rivets using what they call ” Dimensional Fabric Paint. I just put a blob on some card, apply it using the point of a cocktail stick It comes out of the tube like a thick cream, but dries hard.

Next, I want to try and simulate the random plates that some of the photographs show ,where repairs appear to have been carried out at sometime. Hopefully this will give the hull a bit more of a well used appearance. I`ll see how it goes.

Jim.

[Len Morris 2Participant @lenmorris2]

Excellent job Jim.

Len

[James Hill 5Participant @jameshill5]

Thanks Len.

I think it always helps if a bit of detail can be added now and again. It starts to bring things to life a bit. I have to say I`m enjoying your old school construction.

Jim.

[James Hill 5Participant @jameshill5]

Now Ive almost completed the outside of the hull, Im tempted to paint the outside, just to see where there will be any blemishes or mistakes to rectify, and to see how much of the rivetting will show.

I only managed to find a water based black gloss ( in a small tin size ) so it could probably need two coats.

I was just curious to see what others would do when reaching the same point. I realise it`s a personel choice.

Jim.

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

Jim,

Halfords Satin black gives a great finish, not too glossy for a model.

https://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-and-body-repair/car-spray-paints/halfords-satin-black-spray-paint-500ml-468835.html

Best to use a grey primer first

https://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-and-body-repair/primer/halfords-plastic-primer-grey-spray-300ml-456855.html

Colin

 

[James Hill 5Participant @jameshill5]

Thanks for that information Colin.

Ill need to try a test piece first to see how the paint might react now that Ive sealed the card with dope, just in case there`s a reaction.

Jim.

[Richard SimpsonParticipant @richardsimpson88330]

Always the best idea Jim.  I do test pieces for most things I do paint wise, not just to prove the finish is what I am after but also to check compatibility.  Sometimes the time between coats is very relevant as well and, if proven by the test piece, should be repeated in the actual work.  i.e. if you leave a base coat for a couple of days before applying the top coat on your test piece then repeat this timing when you do the actual paint job.

I’ve been convinced now for many years that some declared paint incompatibilities you see on line are as a result of not waiting long enough for all the volatiles from previous coats to have completely evaporated.  Not a guarantee but a point worth remembering.

 

And I’m with Colin, Halfords satin primers in black, grey and red are excellent paints and I’ve used them on many a model!  This is just one.  Please excuse the washers around the port holes I didn’t build it!

[James Hill 5Participant @jameshill5]

Thankyou for your reply Richard,

I can try some test pieces while Im just completing the capping ( thats what I call it ) that runs along the top edge of the hull sides. Looking at pictures, there are so many variations of things on Puffers , I tend to take ideas from each photo.

The Vic Smeed  design I`m using must be an early build , as it shows a sail on the drawing. Makes things a bit different.

Jim.

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

The Halfords grey primer is very useful in showing up surface defects. It is also a good base if you want to spray either white or red primer on top which I am now doing with my Greek fishing boat.

The white plastic primer is better than the standard white primer.

I have found that using white plastic primer for topsides and the standard red primer for below waterline with a top coat or two of matt lacquer gives a very good final finish.

https://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-and-body-repair/specialist-and-decorative-paints/halfords-matt-lacquer-300ml-370269.html?stockInventory=undefined

As far as underwater red is concerned, Halfords also sell an excellent red primer for brush painting that goes on really well without brushmarks. You can put the lacquer over that too.

https://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-and-body-repair/specialist-and-decorative-paints/halfords-primer-red-oxide-250ml-324970.html

Colin

 

[James Hill 5Participant @jameshill5]

Hi Colin,

Thankyou for the extra information. Ill certainly have a look at the sprays youve suggested.

I`m pretty sure there are going to be a few faults showing up.

Jim.

[mmcp42Participant @mmcp42]

Hello!

I’m new round these parts

Just started building a puffer from MM plans I got in 1978

Just read through your thread, I will be referring to it a lot as my build progresses.

I do have a question – where did you source the pulleys in your fantastic picture of the steering chain?

cheers

Mike

[James Hill 5Participant @jameshill5]

If you read this Len, I think us Puffer builders have somehow all surfaced at the same time!

I think there is one more on the Forum somewhere. What makes it interesting is we are all building one in different material and different scales.

All good fun though, keep steaming ahead.

Jim.

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

During the changeover, Banjoman (Mattias) comprehensive topic on his Eilean Mor Puffer went missing. It is now visible again.

Eilean Mor

Colin

[James Hill 5Participant @jameshill5]

Hi Colin,

Thanks for posting the link to Banjomans Puffer build. Looking at manufacturers models gives a great view to detail that isn`t always visible on regular photographs.

A great help.

Jim.

[James Hill 5Participant @jameshill5]

My attempt at a rudder installation.

The hinge points on the keel are a tight fit with a spot of araldite to help. When cured Im thinking of putting a small pin through just to make sure nothing moves. The top needs extending slightly to be able to fit some sort of tiller arm that Puffers seem to have. Once Im happy it`s all ok I can then start looking at connecting the chains to the rudder and the servo.

The picture seems to have come out rather large for some reason.

Jim.

[James Hill 5Participant @jameshill5]

Corrected itself on posting.

Jim.

[James Hill 5Participant @jameshill5]

Can anyone explain why my posting text seems to get changed into sections of small print when in fact I type at the same style right through? Thanks.

Jim

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

No, sorry. It didn’t happen with your last post. I can only assume it is some formatting issue at your end as I’ve not seen it with anyone else.

What device are you using?

Colin

[mmcp42Participant @mmcp42]

it looks to me like it’s finding two apostrophes in your test and treating the text between a bit special

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