Colin, thank you.
Hal. My answers, not definitive, just off the top of me` `ed, however if your setup was satisfactory to you, then whatever you had fitted was sound practice…
answers, A) Yes, too small an area is useless, too much may give rise to too much drag, and/or too much turning moment.
B) No idea, but the two must reach a balance, as 9 Sq cm of rudder area could be a long thin 1×9 size , or a 3×3 size … I wonder if, out of the propeller wash, it would actually make any difference??? A 3×3 is obviously more practical.
c) The pivot point on a balanced rudder is chosen to make the turning effort less on the steering gear , having a bit of area forward of the pivot lessens the effort needed to turn the rudder. On RN ships of “warrior” 1860 vintage , balanced rudders were thought not to give such good sailing when under sail as a non-balanced rudder…..what do model sailors use?? (no sailing vessels in the garage). On a model, it dont make much odds, a servo being beefy enough, unless you have one of Pauls 10 foot creations….
d) Yes , as its a sticky-out bit n the water, it theoretically needs to be streamlined . Practically on a model boat, I cant see that it would make any difference,.
e) No idea. Rudders do seem to be jammed up against the props normally, and I tend to do the same, leaving enough room to unscrew the prop in case of trouble. Again, having the rudder IN the prop wash magnifies is turning effort as it diverts some of the water stream. In air props, a better turning effort is obtained by having the rudder OFF centre, as evinced by the SRN4. They must have known what they were doing, but on a water setup one cant help feeling that the streering one way would be better than the other ?? Once moving, my HMS Courageous, with a central rudder and Twin props turns ok, and steering STARTS sooner than one might expect…so….what?
My answers. Gosh, I can hear those keyboards tapping as I type!!!! Ashley