Sometimes model boat construction can be very frustrating. I have just spent several hours starting to wire up the innards of the latest project which is a kit review to appear in Model Boats later this year so I won't spoil the surprise except to say that it is a small single screw model with no complications.

I think it's fair to say that I've had to do everything twice so far!

I prefer not to have to remove the superstructure at the pond if possible so my usual practice is to fit switches and visual idicators to the main hull, usually disguised under a skylight or similar fitting. I also like to fit external charging points as well.

With anything electrical it is wise to test it as you go along to ensure that everything will work – or at least that is the theory.

This boat has two separate circuits, one for the main motor and one for the RX power.

I used brand new subminiature toggle switches but on soldering wires to them I found that one simply didn't work so I had to install a spare. Next step was the LED power indicators. I use red 12v ones as they do not require a resistor and function perfectly well down to 4.8 volts. They were tricky to fit as the LED has to be pushed up from underneath the deck to be level with the deck surface and access was difficult without octopus tentacles but I managed this and they both tested OK with the wire connections.

All the connections would be managed by a 6 terminal chocolate block connector mounted just under the superstructure. Some people don't like these but they are easy to use and to troubleshoot if problems occur. However you do need to introduce 2 wires into some of the individual screw connectors.

My main battery has a Tamiya connector and I coupled that to a matching socket with silicon wire tails. Immediate problem: the silicon wire core was too large in diameter to permit more tha one wire connection into the terminal block. so a 'step down' twin block was needed to reduce the cable size to the main block.

I also like to fit a fuse in the positive line from the battery using a standard fuseholder into which you clip a cartridge fuse I have been using these for years with no problems and did the usual installation. And so I eventually wired everything up on the power supply side and threw the switch – no indicator light. Checked all the connections and found one was loose. Tightened up the connection and the LED illuminated – then it flickered and went out again. Fiddled around and it appeared that either the LED had developed a fault or the connection to it was damaged. LED had now been glued in following earlier tests. So, no option but to remove all the wiring and chocolate connector and bash out the LED from above which then worked perfectly when connected to a battery! Hurled suspect LED into the bin and looked around for another red one but could only find a green one which would have to do. Aesthetic problem in that red LED is now on starboard side and green one to port – still, who cares? Reinstalled green LED with considerable difficulty and tested OK. Remounted chocolate box connector. Refitted main battery and threw switch – no indicator light. Cursed!

Looked again at wiring and found that fuseholder solder tag had distintegrated for no apparent reason, hence no circuit. Removed fuesholder and associated wiring and hurled into bin. Rewired fuseholder battery connections with new fuseholder. Threw switch, green light came on! Wrong side of model but so what, who is going to see it?

OK, everything now working, quit while you are ahead. Do not, repeat, do not, be tempted to respray superstructure tonight It will only end in tears.

Just the ESC, motor connections and charging points plus the RX power wiring to do now.

Yes Dear, I really do need a whisky. Going birdwatching tomorrow….

Colin

Edited By Colin Bishop, Website Editor on 20/02/2012 23:08:51

PS, simply reverse the negatives when compiling the pictures for the mag, and all the lights will appear to be the right way round !!!

Ashley, you are a cunning man!

Colin