Your best tooling?

[Boiler BriParticipant @boilerbri]

I put this in the 'soapbox' as there is no thread for this kind of post that I can find.

Over the years I have collected quite a few hand tools and electrically operated ones which I call time savers. I mostly use my metal working tools, however with making the Panache yacht I am using tools that I have not used for a while.

My B and D belt sander was very useful for cleaning up,the inside of the formers, but best of all was my 6" disk sander which I made when I was 21. Over the years I have used it for all sorts of things, sharpening drill, cutters, shaping wood etc. This has to be the best tool I have as I always get good results from using it.

Recently, in the last two years I bought a burgess band saw, which I love. This has cut all sorts of things for me and I have not broken a blade, which was one of the things I was really concerned about when buying it.

What's the best tool etc in your armoury?

Brian

[Boiler BriParticipant @boilerbri]

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Brian. Bandsaw (small and large), desk belt sander. How I ever made anything without a bandsaw I will never know!!

​Ashley

Edited By ashley needham on 12/09/2017 09:21:13

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Brian

Myford Super 7 best investment you'll ever make

Regards Ray

[Dodgy Geezer 1Participant @dodgygeezer1]

Hoffnung reminds us of the man who was asked what his favourite part of the body was. He replied: "My navel – because I eat celery in bed and it's a very convenient place to keep the salt…"

[Dodgy Geezer 1Participant @dodgygeezer1]

For me it's the multi-tool – this sort of thing: **LINK**

[Boiler BriParticipant @boilerbri]

Ray. I was a Boxford man until I bought a Chester crusader. Still wish I had the boxford😩

Bri

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

While I also have a powered band-saw, scroll saw and pillar drill my most-used and most useful tool is a Permagrit block. When used in conjunction with a simple shooting board I get dead straight, perpendicular edges to wooden sheet parts every time, which makes gluing up a pleasure.

i also have a set of six cork-boring tools which cut very clean holes in balsa and liteply. They were first on my replacement list when some kind soul broke into my shed and took most of my tools back in 198-frozen to death.

Dave M

[Boiler BriParticipant @boilerbri]

Hi Dave. How do the cork tools work ?

Bri

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

They were designed to punch holes in the corks and stoppers used in a science lab e.g. for glass tubes to be inserted. Each one is a plated steel tube which is sharpened around its bottom edge. You select the right diameter tube, place it against the marked position of the hole you want to bore and screw it into the wood, rather like a corkscrew, with the pad on the top in the palm of your hand. Use the solid rod to clear the wooden plug from the tube and you're ready for the next cut. Resharpen with either a needle file or by reaming around the inside of the sharp end with a very sharp blade.

You can also obtain 12-part sets but they're much more expensive. Co-Op Insurance kindly stumped up for my 6-part set – looks like I missed a trick there!

DM

[David Marks 2Participant @davidmarks2]

My favourite piece of tooling in a small milling machine. I build models from scratch and this machine does a great amount of work. From simple things like making coming strips, all the same size and nice and parallel. Through to making superstructure which I normally make from styrene sheet. Cabin sides are roughed out, held together with small pieces of double sided tape, clamped to a piece of MDF or chipboard and milled to shape, square, parallel and a matching pair Port and Starboard.

**LINK**

[Boiler BriParticipant @boilerbri]

Right i have got it now Dave. I was thinking the fancy shape was the business end not the other end. There a bit like my leather punches.

 

My Milling machine speed tops out at about 2800rpm and i only use it occasionally for wood, i might have to have a  go at styrene sheet as i do struggle to cut that material with a blade.

B

Edited By Brian Dickinson 1 on 15/09/2017 02:27:26

[RumrationParticipant @rumration]

Good eyesight and steady hands?

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

That's most of us ruled out then!

I knew I should have taken this hobby up earlier!

How's the Huntress coming on?

Chris

[Charles OatesParticipant @charlesoates31738]

I've got the usual pillar drill, a couple of mini electric drills, and a pin vice for the tiny stuff, but my favourite is my dads old hand drill. It must be 80 years old, but it really is invaluable. Controlled revs for plastic, wood or brass, and I can 'feel' what's happening as I work. I wouldn't be without it.

Not really tooling, but what the heck.

Chas

PS , his old rip saw is fantastic too, for the domestic stuff. I can't say what my wife says about old tools.

 

Edited By Charles Oates on 28/01/2018 23:11:51

[RumrationParticipant @rumration]

Chris,

All ply parts cut, the ones I need are also sanded. It was the first time I used my scroll saw. Broke two blades! They go with a bang and it frightens me to death. About jump out of my skin.

Today I will be glueing the keel,parts together. These are joined in two parts so I am try to work out where to position the angled sliding joint so that the length is right for a correct fit with the deck. I’m enjoying the build so far.

Thanks for your interest.

Glyn

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Jolly good, coming on then.

Luckily so far I haven't broken any blades.

As regards the keel you need to follow Dave's instructions in Model Boats and lay the parts over the drawing. But if you want to check the length before commtting to gluing you could clamp the keel and doublers together or even screw them together temporarily.

The latter would be my aproach as once you are happy with the position you can glue the doubler on one side and once it's set remove the screws and glue the other in place. In fact I'd cut another longer doubler so that the screws don't interfere with fitting the final doublers i.e. the screws would be beyond where the doublers sit.

Chris

Edited By Chris Fellows on 29/01/2018 17:50:10

Edited By Chris Fellows on 29/01/2018 17:57:34

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

The doublers fit exactly between the slots for frames 4 and 6. You have a full-size plan to assist you, too; you can measure from this with confidence.

I think we should restrict postings about this model to a more appropriate thread (there's one about the wiring diagram somewhere) – sorry, Brian.

DM

Edited By Dave Milbourn on 29/01/2018 18:47:22

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Whilst I have a good selection of DIY tools collected over the years (some of which are useful for model boat building) obviously I've had to add a few smaller (well apart from the scroll saw) tools more suitable for model making.

The Permagrit sanding blocks and files have already earned their place sanding the frames and today I've been using a razor saw for cutting out for the stringers and slots etc. and what a joy for doing that producing lovely clean cuts.

I've already got a razor plane for helping with shaping the stringers before unleashing the Permagrit again but have ordered a Veritas mini block plane and a set of mini chisels.

Of course the job can be done without these specialist tools but it certainly makes the job easier and more enjoyable and satisfies my weakness for more tools!

Chris

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