Puffer advice

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

The white metal fittings supplied for the rudder and the structures around it are almost all unusablly fragile in a working model.

Quite agree, back the model into something hard by accident and you are likely to bend the rudder, prop and supporting structure. I have a collection of white metal rudders which I use as temporary ballast sometimes!

 

[Alasdair AllanParticipant @alasdairallan37423]

My puffer is coming along, but I am beginning to realise that the white metal parts in the Caldercraft for use on the mast and rigging are in many cases unusable,  grateful for people’s views but I think I am going to try to source gooseneck, mast rings in brass, and particularly bottle screws as the latter were in some cases broken.  However, I am unsure how I would fix brass bottlescrews onto the bulwark. Anyone with views on this? Thanks!

[Richard SimpsonModerator @richardsimpson88330]

Alasdair, you are quite right to be concerned as regards the suitability of kit supplied white metal components in rigging.  Frequently they simply are not strong enough to take any sort of tension and either deform or break.

I tend to replace all white metal bottle screws with brass working ones so you can tension things properly.  These should be connected in a way that reflects real practise, frequently with running rigging ropes ended in a loop fixed with a short length of black heat shrink to simulate a tarred canvas cover over a splice and standing rigging wires ended in a loop with a short length of heat shrink painted grey to simulate a swaged thimble.  Bottle screws should be connected with shackles and eyes where appropriate.  I get my eyes from chain links.  I fix things into bulwarks with threaded eyelets, screwed into a hole drilled into the bulwark at such a size to enable the thread to cut into the wood, but wiping the thread with epoxy before screwing it in.

For mast fittings if there is no loading then I might use the kit supplied part but, for standing rigging anchors I might use a scratch built brass ring.

Two shrouds at the bow:

Two side shrouds painted up and weathered:

A mast head arrangement:

And some running rigging on the mast:

[Alasdair AllanParticipant @alasdairallan37423]

Many thanks as ever Richard. These are stunning models.  BTW I have ticked “notify me of follow up replies by email”. This seems to have stopped notifying me of comments? I must try to use this helpful forum more – am conscious I am currently getting free advice from you and Colin without contributing views myself!

[Alasdair AllanParticipant @alasdairallan37423]

Many thanks  Richard. These are stunning models.  BTW I have ticked “notify me of follow up replies by email”. This seems to have stopped notifying me of comments? I must try to use this helpful forum more – am conscious I am currently getting free advice from you and Colin without contributing views myself!

[Alasdair AllanParticipant @alasdairallan37423]

[Alasdair AllanParticipant @alasdairallan37423]

Can find brass replacement for most white metal bits except these – have searched for them under boom collars, mast rings etc. Looking for both the two lugged and four lugged varieties! Anyone know where to find them please? Thanks a

[Richard SimpsonModerator @richardsimpson88330]

Something as specific as that may have to be scratch made.  Not as horrible as it might seam at first.  The easiest starting point is to find a brass tube of the right internal diameter from which you simply cut a slice off the end.  The tabs are made from brass bar stock cut and shaped, drilled and then silver soldered to the brass ring.

As I mentioned above though, strength might only be an issue if you are putting a fitting under some tension, as with standing rigging.  If the fitting is to attach running rigging then the supplied white metal fitting may well be fine for the job.

Another approach can be to use the supplied fittings but with very little tension on the rigging so they are not likely to bend.  This can be achieved by using elastic cord for the rigging to give a tensioned look without the high loading on the fitting.

[Alasdair AllanParticipant @alasdairallan37423]

thanks – will investigate these options!

[Stephen GarradParticipant @stephengarrad28964]

Hi Alasdair.

I had exactly the same problem a few months ago when I was finishing off my puffer. I spent ages searching without success. In the end I did the same as Richard with a piece of tube & small pieces of scrap brass. I also made a pretty passable effort with a drilled piece of tube fitted over the mast with a very small screw eye screwed and epoxied in each of the four holes.

Stephen

[Alasdair AllanParticipant @alasdairallan37423]

Thanks Stephen- I am quite surprised that these fittings are not available. Will look at the option of using screw eyes – hadn’t thought of that!

[Richard SimpsonModerator @richardsimpson88330]

Always more than one way to skin a cat.  Poor cat.

[Alasdair AllanParticipant @alasdairallan37423]

Thanks for all the help on rigging.  As Leuftenant Columbo would say, just one more question. Views on the use of elastic in rigging?  It certainly seems a decent way to keep tension (not prepared to go quite the length of using working bottlescrews) but sure there are disadvantages in terms of needing rerigged!

[Richard SimpsonModerator @richardsimpson88330]

Elastic cord certainly has a life but I rigged my Revel U-Boat with it in 2006, so its nearly done 20 years and it is still fine.  I used black cotton for the two stern lines and elastic cord for the bow line to provide the tension.

 

[Alasdair AllanParticipant @alasdairallan37423]

great – thanks – elastic it is!

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

I have used shirring elastic on some of my models without problems. It comes in different colours and thicknesses. It is particularly useful where a length of rigging is run between fixed and detachable parts of a model. You can make a wire hook and just unclip it and when you put it back the rigging will be tensioned.

The other big advantage is that if you accidentally knock the model then you have less likelihood of bringing the mast down! It’s very easy to catch the rigging with your hand when moving a boat. It seems to last well, I have never had any deterioration.

Colin

 

[Colin Bishop]

On Colin Bishop Said:

It is particularly useful where a length of rigging is run between fixed and detachable parts of a model. You can make a wire hook and just unclip it and when you put it back the rigging will be tensioned.

 

 

Exactly the situation on the U-Boat.  You can just see the hook on the front of the insulators in the rigging.  Unhooking the elastic allows me to remove the deck and bridge unit.  Rehooking simply tensions the rigging again.

[Stephen GarradParticipant @stephengarrad28964]

The stays on my puffer funnel are elastic, it means I can just lift the funnel out of its seating and reduce the height of the wheelhouse sticky out bits by 6 inches when moving the model around.

The mast is all rigged with wire stays & shrouds with bottle screws but the whole lot can be just laid down by unscrewing the bottle screw on the forestay, very simple and again, much more compact and less likely to be damaged when moved around.

Stephen

[Alasdair AllanParticipant @alasdairallan37423]

hi this is a test post – I am finding it impossible to login again, as are other people!

[Alasdair AllanParticipant @alasdairallan37423]

Hi folks I currently have a Caldercraft puffer which I would say is dramatically over powered to the point of hydroplaning! Am keen to get a motor that actually does something nearer scale speed, particularly when starting, as presently she has a tendency to leap out of the water when any power is applied.  Using a 7v battery and a como motor which advertises that it does 9000 volts at 12 v. Any thoughts on what alternative motor I should be using to achieve a bit more control?  Many thanks!

[Stephen GarradParticipant @stephengarrad28964]

Hi Alasdair,

On my 1/ 24th puffer (so approx 36″ long) I used an MFA 540LN motor with a 12V SLA battery (useful as ballast) It goes along a little bit quickly using full stick but easy to slow down.

Stephen

[Alasdair AllanParticipant @alasdairallan37423]

Thanks Stephen. I have the same motor.  I suspect is fine on a ballasted 1/24 puffer, but on a smaller 1/32 one, it feels like too much power. Am presently experimenting with a 385 motor, so will see how I get on!

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