new build

new build

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  • #35797
    steven smith 6
    Participant
      @stevensmith6

      I have just finished my very first scratch build, no plan, and my first ever model ship, (oil tanker) I was told I was brave, now I know why!!!!!!

      #6812
      steven smith 6
      Participant
        @stevensmith6

        new build

        #35806
        Paul T
        Participant
          @pault84577

          Good News Steven

          Can you take some photos for us?

          Paul

          #36033
          steven smith 6
          Participant
            @stevensmith6

            I have added a picture of the 99% finished job, I have made some contacts at my local lake, and they are helping with the next pieces of the jig saw.

            Unfortunately the motor I was sold is too underpowered, so I've been advised to get a torpedo 800, (thanks ti jimmy) I'll have to fit an inline fuse to the supply lead from my battery, there are some ballast issues, that i'm looking at, and then some minor details to the decks, make it look more oil tanker

            #36042
            ashley needham
            Participant
              @ashleyneedham69188

              Steven. Looks nice and shiny! how large is this tanker and what motor were you sold to power it? What type and voltage of battery are you contemplating using also how big is the propellor.

              These are the sorts of questions we want to know about new builds in order to offer conflicting advice!

              I am a fan of the MFA 800 and 850 engines, and know that one would be more than man enough for your boat….BUT the motor you have might be adequate, possibly with gearing or whatever.

              Dont forget the battery is also ballast and it pays to fit a big `un.

              Ashley

              #36085
              steven smith 6
              Participant
                @stevensmith6

                Hi Ashly.

                I used international yatcht paint, the tanker is around 1meter long, the motor I was sold was a 540, but it is underpowered and gets hot, I was advised to get a torpedo 800 to replace it, the battery is a 12 volt job heavy for the ballast, the propeller is a 55mm 4 blade brass.

                Like all things, this was a build with no plan, and my first build, but I'm now in a good position, as I now know what is possible, your spot on with he mfa torpedo, most people are using them now, when I have made a few more adjustments I'll be happy, I mounted the battery standing up, but have now laid it on it's side, another lesson learned.

                Steve.

                #36087
                ashley needham
                Participant
                  @ashleyneedham69188

                  Steve. it is always good to have a plan of some sort, even if you dont follow it. i find that as I progress with a build, especially of a "special", talking to people to get their views is always very useful. even if you dont go with the ACTUAL suggestion, but a variant of it.

                  Your 540 motor, on a metre ship, would have been fine with either a 35mm prop, or 40mm depending on the motor variant, or the current 55mm job with gearing down. BUT an 800 will give you some serious power and you will not regret it.

                  Rule number one with any boat….keep the weight well down low. As you have discovered. batteries should be laid on their side.

                  If your boat is still very tender (rolls a lot), then fit some large bilge keels, or outsize stabilizing fins. They work wonders.

                  Ashley

                  #36099
                  steven smith 6
                  Participant
                    @stevensmith6

                    Hi Ashley.

                    Now there is something I should have thought of, tankers had bilge keels on them, I should have put one on another lesson cheers.

                    The motor gets hot quickly, I have also had to introduce an airflow to the engine room, but the motor has to be changed.

                    If I were to build the tanker again, I would do it very differently, but that has come with just trying to build a model ship, and the learning curve was a steep one! I recommend this approach for this reason.

                    My next boat is from plan,it's a french fishing boat, with sail,no motor, but I will have a good knowledge behind me, I'm in a better position now than when I started, this forum has been a good help also.

                    Steve.

                    #36109
                    ashley needham
                    Participant
                      @ashleyneedham69188

                      Steve. You dont see, or at least, I dont see many ships with adequate bilge keels on. This sort of thing appears to be confined to semi or non-scale models, as making a scale bilge keel on a model will have little effect.

                      You could inset a couple of capped off nuts in the bottom of the hull, to be used to hold on a strip of metal (or whatever) and so add large stabilising fins when sailing by the use of short set-screws.

                      This method does not spoil the lines of the hull when out of the water on its stand, and gets the fins out of the way for more compact storage. When you come to build your sailing boat, you may need to have a keel on it and could use the same method.

                      Ashley

                      #36110
                      ashley needham
                      Participant
                        @ashleyneedham69188

                        …Like this, on the Herald. I used very short studs on this one (as its easier) and although it is a bit crude, you get the idea, and its just as effectice as building-in.

                        I made it like this so I could add lead as required, as I didn`t know exactly how heavy or deep the keel would need to be. The steel is qite thick so very rigid herald keelits easy to weld bits on if neccessary.

                        I have since tidied this up by using sacrificial anodes! Found in a shop..two. of a nice semi streamlined pear shape were drilled and araldited to the plate shown , filled with P38 and voila!! a nice streamlined keel bulb (ish).

                        #36120
                        steven smith 6
                        Participant
                          @stevensmith6

                          Hi Ash.

                          Cheers ash, that's a good idea. it may be a better idea to add a bulb keel. similar to a yatch, I'll see what is best.

                          cheers Steve

                          #36124
                          Paul T
                          Participant
                            @pault84577

                            Body roll is a problem with larger models and whilst the addition of a bulb keel does solve the problem it can create another one as the additional length of the keel could impede launching / recovery and give you headaches with transport or storage.

                            I have tried retractable keels that could be lowered into position after launching but I still prefer using inboard mass ballast positioned either side of the keel (usually bars of lead solder) which can be kept separate from the model during transport and added after launching.

                            Paul

                            #36125
                            Bob Abell 2
                            Participant
                              @bobabell2

                              The deep keel on my Great Eastern has proved to be very successful.

                              It is fully adjustable and can be added to or lightened as required

                              The model sails in an upright majestic style, with no wobbling, rocking and rolling and was sailed in a howling gale at Colwyn Bay regatta recently and she didn`t bat an eyelid!

                              ge and wreck-2-1000.jpg

                              Hull based ballast lacks the leverage and steadyness of a deep keel…….Imho….lo

                              Capt B

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