HMS Cyclops,my 3rd ever build

[David Young 3Participant @davidyoung3]

[David Young 3Participant @davidyoung3]

Well,here we are again,after my success’ s with the Vosper Corvette & Type 24, I just had to look about and see what I could build next. After looking through various issues of both MB & MMI,I came across yet another Clive Halliwell plan that really piqued my interest. This one came in the MMI Plans & Construction special from September.

  Looking at the design,and construction methods applied,I felt that i just had to give this one a go too,with some modifications of course,so without further ado,here’s the build.

 

 

[David Young 3Participant @davidyoung3]

 

[David Young 3Participant @davidyoung3]

She has been fitted with a 385 motor powering a Raboesh 25mm 3-blade prop,running off a 6V-4.5A gellcell,with a further 5lb of ballast. In the 2 video’s which I’ll put up later,you’ll see her running at flank speed,which looks not too bad a scale speed I think you’ll agree.

 

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3CnBOQy3Q_Q

Edited By David Young 3 on 29/10/2010 17:12:38

[David Young 3Participant @davidyoung3]

Current state of the build,she’s not quite finished yet,but I’m nearly there I think.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Jvvcl5lfd4 

[Ian JopsonParticipant @ianjopson21383]

I followed this build on Model Boat Mayhem forum and enjoyed it. Am planning a version of HMS Devastation and would like to know the technical detailks of r/c gear you used ( never having done r/c before). are you intending to do any more to her by way of detailing?

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Looks great. I made a “devastation” (of sorts) a couple of years ago, as a fun thing. It was meant to capture that Tin Toy look, but then I added a few bits and bobs to it, and now It looks like a half hearted attempt at a real model,never mind. My main regret was not making it a foot longer, as a small battleship is a bit of an oddity on the pond!

 

 If I might make a suggestion.. a bit more ballast might give it that essential “half under water” look these things had. I repainted the white line on mine to be much thinner, and it has that authentic “decks awash”, er, wetness in any sort of wind when proceeding through the water. Nice.

 

I used 2x 385 motors , with 35mm thin bladed brass props and a 6v 4.5Ahr SLA battery.

 

Ashley

[David Young 3Participant @davidyoung3]

Hi Ian,I’m not too sure just what you mean by tech details,but I’ll give it a go.

The receiver is just a 2-channel 27MHz AM Futaba one that I had lying around,though I normally use Acoms ones. The servo is a Futaba 3003,though any make of basic servo could be used,as a rudder on these boats doesn’t require a lot of torque.

  The ESC,now comes the fun part. Coming from racing R/C cars,I have plenty of esc’s available,but most are overpowered as far as boats go,though you should only really need an Mtronix Viper Marine 10 or 15,and as these are waterproof,they’re perfect for boats.

  The handset that I use is of the steeringwheel type,(I don’t like sticks),and is a Kyosho Perfex KT-14 with a 10 model memory,with dual steering rate,throttle adjustments,EPA settings for both steering and throttle. This is my main controller that I use for racing my cars with,and is far more advanced than you really need for sailing boats with. Any good quality transmitter can be used in your boats,you don’t need a tranny of this spec to do the job. As long as the tranny has got some form of EPA adjustment,you can trim your rudder perfectly.

What you may find when setting up the boat initially is that the rudder throws more to one side than the other,this is where EPA comes into it’s own,allowing you to trim the throw equally,both left and right. I hope that I’ve explained this reasonably well,I’ve not been asked this before.

   I’ve still to source a further two airvents for the aft deck,but they need to be of a smaller diameter than the ones on the foredeck. The aft deck hatches are still to be finished off as well as finding another capstan for the aft deck too; the ships boats are still to be painted, as are the ladders to the flying bridge;the searchlights aren’t finished yet either; the charthouse has still to have it’s side windows fitted and painted. I’m in two minds whether or not to fit the foremast,as this was later removed from these vessels. The anchorchain chutes have been fitted,but are still to be painted,and I’ve still to source some 15mm Marine figures for her crew. I can find Russian marines easily enough,but finding British ones is proving much harder.Being 1/128th scale,15mm figures(1/100) are just about perfect for her,and are far easier to find in wargames circles than are boat figures from our marine model counterparts.

  I hope that this has been of some help Ian.

 

Ashley,I can see your reasoning for adding further ballast to her,but in doing so,I risk puting the top of the ruddershaft below the waterline,and that is just asking for trouble. At the moment,the top of the ruddershaft is a mere 6mm above the waterine,I had to cut down the stock rudder and collet in order to get her to fit below the aft deck hatch.

  I might just take your advice,and narrow her waterline stripe though,as it might just cut down the optical illusion that she is toppling over on the turns.

 David.

Edited By David Young 3 on 30/10/2010 08:35:40

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

David. Have just seen the u toob footage. Goes very nicely.  Good wave pattern at that speed.

 

Definitely needs more ballast I think, and as you have good access to the rudder i am sure you can extend the post a bit to compensate. Or put a bit of rubber tube on top to effect a watertight seal, and some vaselene.

 

In an article dealing with scale, in a very old mag, I read that most Victorian battleships are modelled with a much too wide white boot topping, (one of the reasons i slimmed mine down), and indeed when I was shuffling through my books the other day, it does appear that the line is very thin on all the ships.

 

I didnt build mine to a plan, I just wanted “the look”       Ashley

 

 

[Ian JopsonParticipant @ianjopson21383]

David,

That is the type of information I was after.At least now, when I go into my local model shop I can start asking the right questions. Thank you.

[David Young 3Participant @davidyoung3]

Glad I could help Ian. We all have to start somewhere,and I was just the same when I started off on the cars. That was a very steep learning curve I can tell you,as I started off racing 1/8th nitro offroad. I don’t think that I’ll ever race them again,as at 50,the reflexes aren’t quite as sharp now for racing at around 40mph. However,I still enjoy racing the little 1/12th scale Mardave’s,they’re a real hoot.

[David Young 3Participant @davidyoung3]

A couple of vids from today.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dPk6nUjw5fw 

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uZkHfxqMU00 

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

My Devastation, as snapped last sunday 7/11/10. Unfortunately I have forgotten to put the flags on it !! It`s riding a bit high, I think i whipped the extra ballast out for something else last time it was out, and havn`t replaced it. A couple more shots on my album.

 

It is also a bit more dumpy that the “Clive” free plan ship, and it shows with the side wave pattern. I have it trimmed slightly nose high as when power is applied it lifts the back up!

 

Its one of my favourite boats, as its dead simple and the paint is really sharp. Only wish it was a foot longer.

 

Ashley

[David Young 3Participant @davidyoung3]

She certainly looks the part Ashley,though I’d have painted the funnels a buff colour. My ship is about 1/2″ narrower than the plans,as I built the base from a 4″ wide sheet rather than from 2x 3″ sheets.

 I see what you mean about the side wake,it’s really pronounced. I wonder if it’s got anything to do with the fact that you run with twin motors on yours? Is she quite maneuverable?

 

 

 

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

In keeping with the “Victorian” look, she has twin motors and 35mm thin bladed props, and one central rudder. The rudder just about impinges on one prop wash or the other to assist lower speed turning. The really odd thing is, if you enter a full power turn, then, keeping the helm over, cut the motor power, she spins very tightly!.

 

I am sure the wake pattern is because it is so blunt. One prop would not fit under there without a lot more cutaway underneath. As it is, the rear profile is almost the same as the front underwater, as the props stick out somewhat.

 

Unfortunately I forgot to put the flags on. I have a union Jack at the bow, a white ensign at the rear and a white “battle flag” on the fore-mast (its on a thin tube so it slides over the ariel wire sticking up. They all swivel, so are always streaming downwind. Very effective, and adds a bit of movement to the boat, as if it makes any difference.

 

Under full ballast it is very effective and the deck is almost permanently awash, very authentic!  The centre bit of deck sits on a 1/4 inch combing and is a tight fit, and keeps out any amount of water. It is very rough weather capable.

 

Ashley

 

[David Young 3Participant @davidyoung3]

The little Cyclops doing her good deed for the day.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KodBfDdd-uQ 

[David Young 3Participant @davidyoung3]

I’ve lost my 25mm prop,so she’s now running with a temp 30mm plastic prop,hence the faster speed.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NU2GbFrDGWk 

[Author]

Posts