ESC

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

The answer to all this is… Buy a waterproof viper marine ESC, wrap the radio reciever in a plastic bag, smear silicon sealant around the rudder servo and let the motor get wet if it wants to, they usually run ok under water. End of problem. The ESC has a nice little diagram with it for connections. Ashley

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

P.S  Racy boat!! needs a big fin on the back.

[60wattParticipant @60watt]

jimbo68 wrote (see)

right then, lets move on to anti condensation heaters shall we, whats one of those ? lol

It isn’t one of those but what is it? It’s not a wire link from anode to cathode of the battery.

Outdoor electrical equipment,CCTV cam’s and industrial high voltage motors use  them when switched off.

Ashley.Explain the brown wire!

Tom

[jimbo68Participant @jimbo68]

hiya ashley, its nice to see you, you have such a calming influence. Yes, thats a good suggestion and a fair comment, but I would like to keep the boat running how I bought it, with it’s original parts.( just one of my little foibles) Also, I asked Astec if there was one I could get which was the same. They said, yes, ther’e are ones with the same spec but they wouldn’t give me the same ‘bottom end control’. they didnt say which ones and I didn’t  ask. If this one gives me any more grief I think I would buy a waterproof one.

Any reason A viper marine ? or just because they are waterproof.

[60wattParticipant @60watt]

Mike Davidson wrote (see)

If the negatives go to one terminal. and the positives to another, with a brown wire connecting the two termiALS TOGETHER I would expect the brown wire to be the source of the heat if not naked flamesAND, the battery voltage to be zero jimbo

That is 100% the way I read it.

Jimbo.If you read your post a wire between both terminals reads to me as between zero and six volt terminals….Geddit? 

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Just because its waterproof. I am not sure any of the others are sold as being waterproof ?  very reasonably priced as well,   seem to be reliable, I have not seen writing to the contrary

What brown wire??????        I have not bothered to wade through the previous posts, seems to be getting bogged down a bit over what was really a very simple question.   Ashley

[60wattParticipant @60watt]

Oh Gawd!

[60wattParticipant @60watt]

 

 

jimbo68 wrote (see)

I have a sneaky feeling it’s running on 12v

jimbo68 wrote (see)

The negative from both batteries go to one terminal and the positive from both batteries goes into another terminal, there is a brown wire that connects these two terminals. Does that mean the electrics in the boat are running off both batteries – 12v ???

Ashley?

[jimbo68Participant @jimbo68]

yes Tom, between 0 and 6 volts, it’s purpose may be self explanatory but can you explain it to me ?

doesn’t matter if you don’t want to.

[Penny LeeParticipant @pennylee76979]

Hi Jimbo,

What you describe is IMPOSSIBLE. Ashley doesn’t read all the posts and Mike…………..

A long while back I wondered why you asked if running the batteries low would make the thing misbehave. At 12 volt :no At 6 volt : yes

It would have been pointless to explain why if you ran off a receiver supply because it would likely only happen if you ran 6 volt using a speed control bec for receiver……………BINGO on that one.

I tried to explain that with a little more info I could explain with more info from you as I have I had neither the instructions at my disposal or one of the same speed controls just now. Info is still lacking to be certain!

I can see that only a few posts ago (from your description) that Tom was not totally sure you are not wired for one battery to motor and one to receiver,thereby disabling the bec.

How did I guess you might have an LM2940? Do you want me to make it any clearer?

………..but then the discussion was along the lines of 12 volts at which Tom said you would have minimum ~ 4 watts into your heatsink which would make it hot. He and I are both made made out to be a bit of a monkey between you and Ashley by saying it aint.Do us a favour and then run it on 12 and blister your finger as penance. 

I’ve repaired hundreds of speed controllers…..HUNDREDS.

Do you wan’t one I repaired of a make which is mentioned in other forums as ideal at its low end?

How about removing the brown wire for a closer look.Show us a picture!

Lee Penny

[jimbo68Participant @jimbo68]

yes, I know Lee, I had a brilliant explanation about why it would be running hot, but I never said it was. I have said on more that one occasion it was damaged by water, before that it worked fine. I haven’t made a monkey out of anyone, not intentionally anyway. 60watt probably assumed it was running hot probably beacuse of all the other stuff. And the only explanation could have been 12volts (maybe there might have been something else, I don’t know) I think we have now agreed it’s input is 6v, which I didn’t know. It doesn’t mean either of you were incorrect. I apologise if anybody feels they have been ‘made out to be a bit of a monkey’ I certainly haven’t meant to do that. Thats not my style Lee. I came on here for advice and information, not to piss people off and make enemies. The photo of the boat was already on my laptop. At the moment I have mislaid my phone-pc usb cable. If you still have any desire left to ‘teach’ me I will put up pics to help you know what I am meaning. I have learnt a lot so far. If you ask me it’s the internet getting in the. You know I can suss things given the time. Once again my apologies if you are disgruntled.

Regards Jim

[Penny LeeParticipant @pennylee76979]

I’m not pissed off at you.Don’t worry on that account

II was just emphasising you will have no idea who on these boards knows what’s inside your black box unless they shout over the throng!

Brown wire anyone?

I am pissed off now because I was typing an edit which was lost when you posted!

To the effect your 5 volts may fall to a level where the relays drop out or the control resets when you have stick forward meaning you have one hell of a job navigating back.

[Mike DavidsonParticipant @mikedavidson22772]

60 Watt, you ought to change your monica to 100 Watt ,you are bright enough! Jimbo     under no circumstances should the positive and negative terminals of any battery be connected to each other even for a milisecond or a large amount of damage could occur It was I who started the scare story about heat, and if your FET had been asked to do too much work it may have been the victim of a junction meltdown, but with allsorts of high ampage floating about on unattached wires goodness only knows what touched what and sent the wrong colour volts down the delicate leg of a transistor. by the way, a 7805 is a tasty integrated circuit that delivers a 5 volt output from a range of input voltagesand if you test one with a meter, from 0 volts/negative, each of the pins should read 0v, 12 volts and 5 volts we use them at work for stabilised voltage supply to micro processors. Ashly was quite right, I use one of those Viper ESC,s, and the fitting instructions clearly say mount the unit in a position where it has clear air around it to aid cooling or the over-temperature unit may operate, so they do get hot, hot enough to do damage if unchecked So in conclusion,look at the connector that goes from your receiver to the ESC, there should be a black red and orange wire. the red wire is the one providing power to the receiver and servo. The black wire is providing a reference for the orange signal wire which carries the 1.5 milisecond pulse to tell the ESC how fast you want to go. Now I did recommend that you scrap the red connector from ESC to radioand power your radio from a seperate power source like four pencells. Nowthe red and black of the battery box should both go to the radio, and then you can take the red wire out of the ESC to radio connector. It is most important that if you useLR6 re-chargeables,they must be well charged at all times

[jimbo68Participant @jimbo68]

Hunted high n low n found me cable, I hope this helps ev1

close up of terminal block. My mistake – mentioned brown wire connects both negative from battery to it negative of jack socket for charging batteries.

[60wattParticipant @60watt]

Mike Davidson wrote (see)

60 Watt, you ought to change your monica to 100 Watt ,you are bright enough!

Mike I’m not sure what you mean or if you are just crawling or you are taking the piss now!In honour of that ill deserved comment I’ll submit this and see if Vinnie or whoever judges the photos is kind enough to show it this time. There was no picture for four days for some odd reason.I removed the glasses and the 60 one went up in a day.

[jimbo68Participant @jimbo68]

It was I who started the scare story about heat, and if your FET had been asked to do too much work it may have been the victim of a junction meltdown, but with allsorts of high ampage floating about on unattached wires goodness only knows what touched what and sent the wrong colour volts down the delicate leg of a transistor.

Could it have been water Mike ?

[60wattParticipant @60watt]

jimbo68 wrote (see)

Hunted high n low n found me cable, I hope this helps ev1

close up of terminal block. My mistake – mentioned brown wire connects both negative from battery to it negative of jack socket for charging batteries.

Lol

What a piece of junk!

Enter it into MPBA exact scale anyway.

[jimbo68Participant @jimbo68]

I know you till may not be able to tell much from this but it should make it a damn site easier if you want to know whats what, I can just point it out now if you can’t make it out

[jimbo68Participant @jimbo68]

sure might look like a pice of junk but they don’t make em like that any more, It doesn’t need to be state of the art, It needs to get where its going n drop my end tackle n freebies and it does that just fine.

[60wattParticipant @60watt]

jimbo68 wrote (see)

It was I who started the scare story about heat, and if your FET had been asked to do too much work it may have been the victim of a junction meltdown, but with allsorts of high ampage floating about on unattached wires goodness only knows what touched what and sent the wrong colour volts down the delicate leg of a transistor.

Could it have been water Mike ?

Reverse polarity fried the shottky diode into the bargain if you believe the repair guy!

Would he lie for any reason?

[jimbo68Participant @jimbo68]

And she would easy win a fight with say a Waverunner or Dynacraft, I even have 1m/s more speed that most, she’s a beast in the bait boat world.

[jimbo68Participant @jimbo68]

It was AsTec said and/or shottky diode, I have no knowledge of that being knacked aswell, just the FET.

He is a tv/video engineer with no need to lie to me.

[60wattParticipant @60watt]

Hi Jimbo,

At 6 volt it was water,fet case shorting to heatsink or shaft seizing.Not bec heat as there is practically no bec power loss when the LM2940 in to out voltage drop is so low even when the 1.5 amp limit is kicking in.

Charging sockets are in handsets too but there is usually a series diode in case polarity is reversed.

Put a fuse in the power line.

You might find it interesting to hear what the tv guy says it will do on 12 volt with a linear regulator.

Tell him also to mind the FET gate plateau voltage in some speed control designs. Some use FET’s that are resistive at 3.5 volts direct from four rechargeable pencells.Old punters run them till the batteries die.

Ask him what happens to a speed control with one transistor when and a 2-pole speed relay when the relay is subject to vibration for hours or relay is surrounded by a 5 watt heater or the FET is run at low voltage.

Tell him whether it has an eprom or eeprom and how the neutral is set and stored or if it is fixed and ask him what happens after a brown out.

Don’t bother telling me because I know and I suppose Lee does too if he has repaired as many control units as he says.

Over and out

Tom

[jimbo68Participant @jimbo68]

Till we meet again.

and I prefer to say ‘perfectly sevicable’ rather than junk, but junk may be more accurate lol

[Mike DavidsonParticipant @mikedavidson22772]

    The shottky diode is common practice in the computer industry, and is invariably found across relays and other inductive devices. The reason for this is that when the energising voltage is removed from a coil, (relays and motors ) the magnetic field that caused the device to operate collapses , and the collapsing magnetic lines of force cut across the conductors of the coil in question inducing a high reverse polarity voltage in the windings . This could cause a snig or spike drive in a computer processor, or drive a spike of high voltage through your radio receiver causing all sorts of mischief. the shottky diode is connected in reverse polarity across the device, your motor, so that if a reverse polarity spike is generated, the diode conducts, and the spike is earthed. If by any chance, you connected the diode the wrong way round, it would conduct when you put power onto the motor. This is when a diode does a passable impression of a light bulb because the thing conducts heavilythrough the very thin wire you can see through the glassand if you have two lead acid accumulators in parallel, they could deliver 40 to 50 amps. Going back to the shottky, it is there for a purpose, and that is suppression of electrical interference, which all modellers should pay attention to. all electric motors should have a 0.1 uF capacitor soldered from each terminal to the case, that will get rid of most interferenceSo men carry on Boating , but safely

[Author]

Posts