Air Brushing a Hull

This topic is empty.

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 15 total)

Author

Posts
30 June 2012 at 10:23 #35109
Greg McKenzie 1
Participant
@gregmckenzie1
I am working on my first model since being at school, Occre's Ulises. I am now at the stage of painting the hull using an air brush and oil based enamel.I have mixed the paint to the desired colour and thined it by about 50% and am using arould 15psi. What I want to know is how do I get an even coat without overlay onto the previously painted surface?
Advert

30 June 2012 at 10:23 #3865
Greg McKenzie 1
Participant
@gregmckenzie1
30 June 2012 at 10:38 #35111
Paul T
Participant
@pault84577
Greg

In general terms the following applies to all types of spraying.

Spray in even strokes covering the entire length of the area in one pass, repeat the process over the entire area whilst the previous pass is still wet.

Apply the paint in thin coats and don't be tempted to apply more paint until the last coat is fully dry.

When spraying a sharp line or de-marking a new colour employ a decent masking tape but use no more than 3mm of the sticky width (stick newspaper over the rest of the width) this minimises the chance of the tape pulling the paint off when removed.

I hope that this helps

Paul
30 June 2012 at 11:42 #35112
sammyk
Participant
@sammyk
all of the above but please dont use newspaper the ink can bleed into the new paint colour, use plain brown paper the type that parcels are covered in .regards sammyk
30 June 2012 at 12:33 #35113
Greg McKenzie 1
Participant
@gregmckenzie1
Is it meant to spray from bow to stern or from deck to keel?
30 June 2012 at 12:53 #35114
Paul T
Participant
@pault84577
Hi Greg

Spray from stem to stern starting and stopping the spray gun slightly away from the hull to prevent spotting and paint build-up.

Hi Sammyk

Some brown paper is glossy and can cause the paint to run all over the newly painted surface. I will stick to newspaper as I have never had a problem with print ink bleeding in over 30 years of spraying, the trick is not to let the newspaper touch the paintwork as only the masking tape should be in direct contact.

Paul
30 June 2012 at 13:46 #35115
Greg McKenzie 1
Participant
@gregmckenzie1
Thanks to all of you.

Regards
30 June 2012 at 13:48 #35116
Dave Milbourn
Participant
@davemilbourn48782
FlipChart paper works very well – it's plain, matt and cheap, and you won't get side-tracked reading rubbish while you're supposed to be modelling. If you're stiil at work, chat up the nearest HR person and it could be even cheaper

DM
30 June 2012 at 14:20 #35117
Paul T
Participant
@pault84577
Dear DM

Thats why I take the Times and not the Sun (I wouldn't know where to look never mind spray).

Paul
2 July 2012 at 06:31 #35124
Greg McKenzie 1
Participant
@gregmckenzie1
I would think that the inside of the Sun would be a huge distraction if its still the same as when I was in the UK.

I have come to the conclusion that the air brush I have is around 90% of my problems. It gives too narrow a spread. I see there is a Badger Vega on EBay that has a variety of needles etc which might be a good thing, but I will listen to the experts.

Perhaps someone has a kit they would like to sell if surplus to their needs?
2 July 2012 at 07:18 #35126
Paul T
Participant
@pault84577
Hello Greg

Don't dismiss your existing airbrush just yet as your problem could be something as simple as an incorrect needle setting, the paint / thinner mixture, the pressure that you are using or even the compressed air supply.

Airbrushes are temperamental at the best of times and even the most experienced users have problems.

I have 2 airbrushes, an old Badger and a cheap DIY shop unit, they both operate at 28psi but the Badger can be temperamental especially during humid weather. Sometimes I give up on them and switch to using spray cans.

Can you tell us what make the brush is, what paint and thinners you are using and what kind of air supply you are using.

Paul
2 July 2012 at 08:43 #35127
Greg McKenzie 1
Participant
@gregmckenzie1
The air brush is a Holding which was probably built in some Chinese back yard and the paint is oil based enamel with its thinners. Have thinned this down to 50% and tried pressure from 10-30 psi togetherwith a variety of settings.

Have filled it with paint and tried spaying onto cardboard to set the spray pattern. No matter what, I cannot get much more than a width of 15mm. All this lends me to think that the brush will be OK for smaller articles but no good for large surfaces.
2 July 2012 at 10:25 #35128
Greg McKenzie 1
Participant
@gregmckenzie1
Best deal I can find is from Micromark who has a Paasche starter kit for $69.70 including the post
21 July 2012 at 06:50 #35355
wizard
Participant
@wizard
another consideration in air brushing is the paint quality. The colour pigment in some brands of paint is not as finely ground as in others. I have found it preferable to use air brush paints which although more expensive produce a good finish.

Not all airbrushes will spray enamels as the seals break down from the thinners.

I have used many different brands of airbrush and one of the most versatile for model work was from Tamiya, two sizes of nozzle the larger being ideal for spraying hulls.
11 September 2012 at 06:42 #36452
Greg McKenzie 1
Participant
@gregmckenzie1
Have not changed the paint mixture but have a new air brush running at 30 psi and everything is rosy.
Author

Posts