Apart from the hull grab ropes allong both sides of the boats hull I finished the boat just after lunch this afternoon, completing the deck safety rails without further drama or catastrophe.
However I will take photos of her in her finished state in a little while, once the grab ropes are finished and added.
However, I want to say somethng about the grab ropes and how I fit them so that I don't end up with them twisting, as so many that I have seen in the past tend to do.
Its a simple thing to avoid.
If you look at string and rope it is almost always wound in a certain direction…….Anti clockwise, or from left to right with the strands of the wire /rope turning in th rope walk in the holder, in a clockwise direction…….
And if you were to through some light rope/string in an upward direction it will almost always fall in a heap but most deffinately coiling anti clockwise.
I KNOW THIS from my youth and when I started working during University days holidays for a company called COSALT, [originally known as the Great Grimsby Coal, Salt, and Tanning Company] on Dock Street, Fleetwood.
They supplied the town's fishing trawlers with everything from egg timers to hundreds of fathoms of steel ropes for the trawl winches and nets.
As the wires and ropes were wound in one of the outer buildings and then crimped for eyelets and attatching secondary ropes I used to watch them during lunchtimes, watching the guys check each rope fanatically for flaws as they were spun. A snapping steel rope could and had been known to take a mans arm, head or even body from legs under the srtain of hauling tons of fish or getting snarled up on the sea bed……and I learned a lot from those guys who made the trawl wires and found it incredibly interesting to listen to these old timers who's life was spent in that industry.And it was then that they told me just how to load, 20, 40 or even up to 100 fathoms of wire onto a ship standing by the dock side easily and quickly.
Tied into coils like an inert slinky spring, and normally with the smaller coils of 20 or 40 fathoms [always measured in fathoms] we would park 10 feet or so from the dock side and cut the rope from the bundle and then lift a couple of coils from the top of the coil and we would flip it onto the dock side, and each coil would just follow like a big slinky spring…..repeating the process then from dock side to trawler………..and there it would remain on the deck until wound correctly on to the trawl winch, with no tristing or snarling by the feed runners once the trawler had put to sea.
I was given one day the job of taking two "wires/bridles" down to a dock side Icelandic trawler due for sailing later that night. And thje process went perfectly as described as the "slinky spring" had been flipped twice….so as to be able to be wound correctly………we were told NEVER to turn the warp from lorry to trawler deck in one go as the warp would be "twisted" and put unders strain when being wound onto the winch…..
AND I TELL THIS STORY because it is exactly the same when winding string onto a model……….
START frm the right of the boat and work left, and you won't get any twisting in your ropes, i.e. port side….fit from the stern to bow, and from starboard side……..from bow to stern.
Follow this tip and you wont get twists in our grab line coils.
And so I made a jig to get all my loops the same length, taped the apex of the loop to a wooden board to the correct depth, and with the anchoring points corresponding with those on the boat tied to loops i had glued into the wooden board……and a dab of superglue in the tie at the loop to hold, until set……..