Twinkler build

[AssociatedParticipant @associated]

Thanks to all now I got plans the correct size .

Matt

[AssociatedParticipant @associated]

Got a weeks holiday I need to use up before end of March , so il be using it in a couple weeks time if I don't start this before looks like il have plenty of time to build this then .

Matt

[AssociatedParticipant @associated]

Organising getting materials ordered , regarding tissue to cover hull is there any difference with aircraft tissue and tissue buy from a craft shop ? Will be using z poxy to cover I think , any tips how to use it ? Does it go on before the rails down the hull and can a wrap it around corners or just overlap and cut off access after epoxy set ?

Matt

[mark69Participant @mark69]

Hi Matt regarding the tissue theses no difference between the two ,both are "jap tissue" I like using fibreglass tissue with epoxy as its a lot better to sand without the fluff but the choice is yours what you use ! …..mark

[AssociatedParticipant @associated]

Hi mark , I would imagine fibreglass would be stronger , have used fibreglass matting before . Can be a pain at times due to the strands pulling apart and while working and setting the matting can lift .

Is there any method to stop this and is best to lay in strips of a few inches wide ?

Matt

[mark69Participant @mark69]

Hi Matt done use fibreglass Matt J they are not the same ! Fibreglass tissue is different looks the same as jap tissue but far better ! and stronger I get mine from work but its onsale online ……mark

[AssociatedParticipant @associated]

Mark I have sent you a pm .

[mark69Participant @mark69]

Matt sent you a PM …mark

[AssociatedParticipant @associated]

At last i have got around to ordering all the wood i need from slecuk .

i have got a propshaft , coupling and a 400 size motor . Anything else materials / consumables im likley to need except from the obvious tx & rx , esc , motor mount , battery , servo , rudder and propeller .

i read something about mixing epoxy with another compund when glue the prop in the hull , what is that ?

matt

[mark69Participant @mark69]

Hi Matt its called calloidal silica ,a white soapy like powder from West Systems ,you can add that to your epoxy .other powders are available but I find this works the best for bonding when your after a stiffer mix !! …..mark

[AssociatedParticipant @associated]

Thanks Mark ! All I can see it makes the apoxy stiffer stronger and does not run or sag . Couldn't you use something like sawdust or similar to stiffen the glue up ? Or is there any need for this ?

Matt

[mark69Participant @mark69]

Hi Matt sorry maybe I read your post wrong what were you asking about a "compound you add to epoxy" what did you mean I thought you wanted something to thicken it for filleting ?? can you expand on what you need to our the prop shaft in ,personally I would wait until you have you motor connected to the shaft and tube ,that way everything will be inline when you glue the shaft in , but that's how I would do it ! but it's your build !!!!…….mark

[AssociatedParticipant @associated]

Finally started to build . I'm having problems uploading pictures via photo bucket is there another way ? 

 

 

Edited By Matt B5m on 21/02/2016 14:26:14

[AssociatedParticipant @associated]

 

At last the build has started . ( about time I bet some may think ) I can see the construction will not take too long to contruct the hull at the speed it's gone this weekend with only a few hours spent on it .

I found 2 decent ways to copy templates onto balsa . 1 was with prit stick and glue paper templates onto wood at cut out and peel off after and 2 tpins from slec , hold template and pin line of shape and remove pins which leaves a nice dotted line to follow . I did also tracing using grease proof paper but a steady hand is needed . I found out trying to draw around a template is not as accurate as thought if not stuck or pinned down .

Template cutting out and hull frame assembled and then sanded ready for sheeting .

Started to sheet sides of the hull . I found was easier to cut oversize glue a few sections and then sand back to desired shape / profile . So far going well .

 

Matt

Edited By Matt B5m on 21/02/2016 23:08:06

[AssociatedParticipant @associated]

Has anyone got any tips when sheeting over the keel to chine section ? As when lay peice on what's best way to meet at keel and edges nicley ? Or just put joint sand and fill etc .

Thanks , matt

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Matt

Looking very good and your cuts are nice and neat, remind me what woods you are using.

Paul

[AssociatedParticipant @associated]

Paul , I am using medium grade balsa . Sheeting the side of hull of more less complete just thinking on best approach to lay keel to chine sheets to feather or bend in ? Sand an angle on the back or cut sheets smaller and use planking method ?

Thanks I do try and cut as accurate as I can always use a straight edge to cut when possible .

Matt

[AssociatedParticipant @associated]

Thinking on the electrics side of things I need to order while I'm ordering a motor mount , the motor is a 400 size 4.8 amp . What size battery do I go for ? 7.2v but what ampage ? A bigger one like 5500mh or smaller . Is the run times a lot more on a 5500mh compared to a 3000mh or there about ?

Matt

[AssociatedParticipant @associated]

A few more bits done finished sheeting hull sides and started on chine to keel . Gave a sand down to bring peices with too much material or that's too proud down to correct size and blend in . Also cut hole for prop .

Edited By Matt B5m on 24/02/2016 20:01:15

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Matt. Balsa is difficult stuff to get a smooth finish on. Were you going to cover the boat with resin or what-have-you? By the looks of it you may want to use a finer sand paper to avoid more work later on (just a suggestion). Ashley

[AssociatedParticipant @associated]

Ash I'm using 240 sandpaper and not done any filling yet but il be using fibreglass and z poxy is it needed to fill all sanding marks etc in if covering with glass tissue ?

Matt

[AssociatedParticipant @associated]

I may change my mind depending what is best way to seal balsa , some use sanding sealing thinned down some use eze coat or a epoxy do you have to use a tissue or can you just cost the hull with no tissue ? I was going to skim most of the hull with pollyfilla and sand back so wasn't sure if sanding sealer would soak in .

Matt

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Yet another topic we don't agree on, sealing and painting hulls!! For many years modelers simply painted hulls and that was good enough, with all the new stuff there is obviously a choice, basically on how hard or stiff you want the hull to be. F/glass and resin or Z-poxy will be hard and stiff, Ezecote not so hard, paint obviously not very still at all. Your hull is or should be nice and structurally stiff so really it is just a matter of getting a smooth finish and hardening up the balsa. A few coats of Eze may even do with nothing else…..

I generally use 400 grade​ sandpaper, the yellow stuff on a big roll as being a compromise between smoothness and cuttingness. I generally wait until all the bits are glued together before sanding, unless parts need "sanding to fit" or chamfering, but theres no right or wrong. Whatever, as long as you don't over-sand theres not a problem.

I have been using Ezecote lately, but if covering in Z-poxy I think it will not matter too much if you use dope or sanding sealer etc. Having a fairly smooth surface to start with will obviously help the final finish in asmuch as there will be less work to do after the glass has been applied! I would seal first, then fill…using that lightweight white filler (ha,,,in MY opinion!) which is nice and soft so you don't have to scrub too hard and dent the balsa, seal again (to harden the filler and then after a VERY L:IGHT rubdown , apply whatever it is you are using. Polyfilla would do, used it myself now and then, perfectly OK if it is sealed after.

Ashley

[AssociatedParticipant @associated]

Thanks Ashley , so really you don't need to apply a resin and tissue ? Can just seal and fill rub down and seal again and then paint correct ?

Matt

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Yes. You can simply use several coats of either dope/sanding-sealer or eze cote, but if you apply a layer of tissue with the sealer you will get a much smoother finish that will also be more dent-resistant

Ashley

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