Twinkler build

[AssociatedParticipant @associated]

Hi all I bought a magazine that was told had a article about tools needed and saw the article on this little boat . Fancy to build it so I went to staples and got plans blow up to A0 . Looks going to be quite a nice little boat .

Has anyone built one before I have a few questions regarding the build .

Thanks , matt

[AssociatedParticipant @associated]

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

Dave Milbourn on here redrew the plan and built the Twinkler model. I'm sure he will be pleased to answer any queries that are not covered in the build article text. He has been away but should be back on the Forum soon.

Colin

[Tony HadleyParticipant @tonyhadley]

Twinkler is featured in this thread

**LINK**

On thread page 7, Dave Milbourn's model appears and a photograph of two other builds of the model appear on thread page 8

**LINK**

[AssociatedParticipant @associated]

Thanks guys , reading more into it with a article . Pretty simple really but where says to steam various sections how would you do that ? Small section a cooling rack over a pan of water ? What about rails ?

Matt

[AssociatedParticipant @associated]

Also would you recommend to sheet the hull with balsa or ply to give it more strength ? Also what's best method to waterproof the hull apart from tissue and Eze-kote?

Matt

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

Pretty simple really but where says to steam various sections how would you do that ? Small section a cooling rack over a pan of water ? What about rails ?

Hold the part in the steam from a boiling kettle. When you feel it getting soft and pliable then bend it gently and remove from the steam, then hold it until it cools.
There are probably more ways of finishing a wood hull than you have time left on this earth to read up. If you've never built a model like this then my advice is to stick to the instructions. No point in making things deliberately difficult for yourself.

Dave M

[AssociatedParticipant @associated]

The instructions don't say about tissue it's what read in the magazine, is the just a resign I can use or a sanding sealer ?

Regarding to steaming the strips along the hull if you steam a section would you glue onto hull and clamp until cool then what about next section of same strip that needs to be steamed as stuck to the hull do you do while in situ or clamp as you go along once all steamed and glue after to the shape you want ?

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

You'll find that only about 150mm of the strips need to be steamed in order to get them round the curve – the rest will bend by hand. You can steam the curve into the front of the strip at one go. Use Slo-Zap superglue to fit about 100mm at a time, starting from the front. You won't need clamps; the glue will set faster than you could fit them anyway. Just hold in place with your fingers for about 30 seconds and they will be firm.

For directions on using tissue etc see here **LINK**

DM

[AssociatedParticipant @associated]

Thanks Dave , that's helpful will learn a lot as I'm going along !

What's the best glue to use ? After a quick drying glue that drys within a minute or so and is bass wood best to bend around the hull ?

Can I use lite ply to cover the hull with ?

Matt

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

Matt

Please have a read of the article again. Most of the questions you have asked are answered there. Slo-ZAP is mentioned as the type of glue to use, and bass is specified as the wood for the chine strips.

You could use Liteply as an alternative to balsa for the hull skins. I would suggest 2mm thick. You can buy balsa, liteply and bass strip from SLEC **LINK**

DM

[AssociatedParticipant @associated]

Thanks Dave . Only briefly read but not in detail . Il be ordering all materials from slecuk as cheaper than model shop in Swindon or hobby craft .

I was thinking liteply would be stronger if hit the bank etc .

Best get onto slec and get a order in .

Matt

[AssociatedParticipant @associated]

Looking at ordering parts I need for this build , the article says a 400 size motor , do I go brushed or go for a brushes that's suitable or stay brushed ? On Cornwall model boats I can only find JP that do that size on there . Are they any good ?

Regarding a coupling its surgested to go for a flexible one but the flex ones are the ones with wire in the middle , is this suitable or do I just go for a uj style and the inserts ?

Hopefully be ordering majority of the parts later ,

Matt

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

**LINK**

**LINK**

[AssociatedParticipant @associated]

Brilliant ! Thanks for the links .

All down to knowing what surpliers to go to, have bookmarked for future .

[AssociatedParticipant @associated]

Forgot to mention when blown plans up the boat is slightly bigger than should be the scale that says 150mm is not 150mm the length of the hull is 620mm is it wise to go Upto a 500 size motor being slightly bigger ?

Matt

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

That's not "slightly", Matt – it's over 100mm (20%) bigger. The choice of size is down to you, but I would suggest that you re-copy the plan to the right size (approx 510mm long). If you would send me your regular E-Mail address via a Private Message I might be able to help you further with that. Just click on Message Member on the line below this text.

[AssociatedParticipant @associated]

I wanted to build one about this 600mm but  I could build it smaller , what if I went to a1 ? Would be a better size ? 

I do have some other plans for a bigger model but was saving to build something more simple 1st . 

Matt

Edited By Matt B5m on 08/02/2016 11:34:30

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

Matt, if it is your first model then, as Dave suggests, stick to the original design and build. Once you start trying to change things you introduce all sorts of extra variables which, as you are beginning to realise, can have unexpected consequences and significantly affect the quality of the build and the performance of the model, not always for the better!

For example, if you increase the size of the hull, the internal volume (and displacement/weight) will increase exponentially more than the percentage increase in length. For example a 35ft yacht is much, much bigger than a 30ft one of the same shape.

Colin

[AssociatedParticipant @associated]

I'm going to stick to the correct size but just having a problem getting to the right size , a0 is too big as 62cm long and wouldn't know if should try a1 or a2 next to get closest.. Any ideas ? Blown up from a4 .

matt

[AssociatedParticipant @associated]

Dave I have sent you a pm ,

Thanks . Matt

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

Matt, forget page sizes, the length of the boat as printed in the magazine is 155mm, the actual boat is 510mm. Any decent large photocopier will have a percentage enlargement scale so just ask them to enlarge the page by 329% and you will get the size you need. It might be a mm or two out in practice but that won't matter.

Colin

[AssociatedParticipant @associated]

Thanks Colin , as I'm useless at maths is there a formula to work out what percentage bigger to enlarge plans to if you know what size the hull size should be , be useful to know .

Cheers

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

Divide the smaller (plan) into the larger (hull) and multiply by 100.

Colin

[AssociatedParticipant @associated]

Brilliant, thanks

[Author]

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