Slo mo Shun

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Bob, I think smooth water is whats required. The surface piercing prop will only produce the impressive “rooster” tail once it is actually ON the surface, catch 22 being they are not so efficient underwater and thus it takes more effort to get up on the plane.

 

I am not sure how efficient a flexible shaft must be, after all, theres all that bending going on…I assume the fast boys only have a flexible shaft so that when their boat is dashing along on the plane, the shaft is parallel to the water and thus can surface pierce efficiently.

 Ashley

 

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Thank you Bob

 

I am looking forward to seeing the first couple of coats go onto your model

 

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Welcome back, Paul

 

It will be some time before I`m ready for the varnish……..Need to sand away the surface PVA first………………And I`ve found it necessary to wear gloves, as the dry veneer shows fingerprints too easily!

 

Back to square one with the poweplant selection!

 

Bob

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Due to the over zealous use of the orbital power sander and the veneer being only 0.022″ thick………The veneer was wafer thin in parts!……………and little ugly swellings appeared after the initial coat of varnish

Problem sorted!……..The lump was sliced with the grain and PVA rubbed in, followed by the weighted string clamp and wood blocks

 

Fingers crossed…………..Bob

Edited By Bob Abell on 28/11/2009 09:21:26

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Power sander …..naughty naughty

Orbital power sander……very naughty its amazing that any veneer is left at all.

 

Ugly little lumps is the PVA reacting with the moisture in the varnish (I hope that you didnt use water based varnish)

 

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hello Paul

 

I used a quality Yacht varnish…….and the bumps are only on the early section…before I thought of the weighted cord idea.

 

Got a few small glue stains too, but hope to paint them out with Acrylic paint gradually.

Should have used thicker veneer really, especially for curved areas, the flat areas are quite good.

 

The bumps are easily removed…….just slice them with the grain and re-glue……the varnish prevents the glue from soaking in now

 

Very exciting part of the build now!……….Bob

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

I rather like Pauls idea of applying several coats of varnish BEFORE doing any sanding..

 

Ashley

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Ashley

 

Like many people of my age I undertook a proper apprenticeship of 6 years (not the 6 weeks that seems to be the norm today)

As my family owned a building firm I had to learn all the trades one of which was bench joinery which I was taught by my great uncle Frank, a true victorian craftsman of whom I am sure Captain Bob would have approved.

He even taught me cabinet making and how to apply varnish, laquer and even french polish so I cant really take the credit for my advice, I am just passing on what I learnt all those years ago.

 

Paul 

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Thank you Paul and Ash for your comments……….Comments these days are as rare as hens teeth!

 

Pleased to report that all the scabs and warts have disappeared now and have also tinted a few glue spots…….Now it`s a matter of varnishing and waiting between coats.

 

In order to create the curved red stripes at the front end…..I`ve made a thin plywood template to get the right smooth curved shape and will simply draw round it with a soft pencil, then go round the shape with a Sellotape mask.

 

Looking OK at the moment………Captain Bob

 

He who also appreciates Victorian skills and techniques……………Grandad was a church organ builder

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Bob, I have never had much luck curving sticky tape for  masking curves.

I normally (he says as if he does it twice a week) or when the situation arises, draw the line on and then fill in the line/whatever freehand.

 

I cheat a bit if its a black stripe,  I draw the stripe on with a black marker pen and then fill in, going as near to the edge as possible. You get a really crisp line then, and only notice the cheat if you look really really closely and with the light just so on the piece.

 

A simplified “Stingray” is one of the things on the “must build at some time” wish list, and a step nearer having now having actually built a sub..but its a mass of curved paintwork…and even if the body isnt quite as curvatious , the paint will have to be in order to make it look a bit better.

 

Talking of curves, I purchased a cheap DVD of the film “The Outlaw”, you know the famous one by Howard Hughes, and starring Jane Russell, yes that one, the one which was banned, due to the use of er, well you know, Jane wasnt the BEST actor, but..   And its truly an appalling film. Troy Tempest had more life that the actor playing Billy the kid, the scenes are contrived and more wooden that your boat.  I LIKE cheesy old black and white films, but this is dire. Have to watch it though just to see what all the fuss was about, having been banned and all. Tame, as expected. Ah well. Thank goodness I have a complete set of Fireball XL5 to cheer me up.

 

A church Organ builder. Now thats a job i would love ! The concert band i play with rehearses in an old church in Tooting with a large organ, and when we put the stuff away in the organ loft you can see all the pipes and….stuff. One of the ladies I was talking to is an instrument repairer and she said when she was at college one of the things they bhad to do was dismantle an organ for fitting elsewhere . She said the air for the pipes was distributed in the Organ bed (or their may have been a special name for it)?, which is a flat box maze sort of affair, the pathways of which alter as you twiddle the knobs and keys, all made out of wood of course…the air goes in one end and eventually leaves via holes at the other and then to the pipes. ts something you never think about…without having given it much though previously i had always imagined there was miles of tubing and valves or something.  There we are. Sorry to digress.

 

Ashley

[Phil Winks 1Participant @philwinks1]

Looking good Bob glad to hear you’ve sorted the niggles.

 

6 year apprenticeships eh paul mine was only 4 but then that was only for the C&G craft certificate. if you count the 4 yrs I spent doing my ONC at evening classes I suppose it was 8

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hello Ashley

 

A nice exhaustive reply!

 

I find the trick with curving Cellotape, is to use only the working edge of it….and let the back edge just crinkle up.

 

Talking of The Outlaw film…………….Saw the film in about 1950……..ish?

Never actually liked JR……..There was a rumour that…….SHE was a ……HE!

 

What instrument do you play in your Concert Band?……..BTW……..What is a Concert Band as opposed to…………….just a band?

 

Bob……..I play a Tyros keyboard…………..after a fashion!

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Thanks Phil

 

Now with three coats of varnish…………….How many did you apply to your Barrel Back. just out of interest?

 

Luckily, it`s nice and warm upstairs where I hang out…..I pity the garage workshops in this weather?

 

Bob

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Its true JR isnt really actually good looking, , but…..   (refrains from smutty innuendo)

 

A concert band is a military band, really, for the line up of instruments , so everything barring strings.

I play the Euphonium usually, but also play sax/clarinet /flute (one at a time).Will try and pop a picture of my band in action in the album!.

 

I once saw some stuff to use for masking that you paint on, and it dries a bit like latex or something, and then when the other process has finished you can just peel it off.

 

Ashley

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Here we are Bob, my band in action (dance band, not the concert band) in the depths of Surrey a few weeks ago. I am in the white Tux. as a pointer. Playing i think Pennsylvania 65000 as the sax section is standing waving instruments about.

 

It detracts from the boating sometimes though!

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Very nice, Ashley!…………..Well done!

 

Bob

[Phil Winks 1Participant @philwinks1]

I think it was about 12 coats Bob rubbed down with 400 wet/dry (wet) between the 1st 4 coats then 1200  between  the rest a tiresome business but worth it in the end

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Another work in progress picture…………….( Yawn, Yawn )

Varnishing the sides and end walls…………………Bob

[Phil Winks 1Participant @philwinks1]

You have taken your 1st steps on The long long road of varnish and  wet/dry Bob. Keep plodding on it leads to a very nice place  

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hello Phil

 

I`m up to the 6th coat of varnish and the red paint brush is calling already!

 

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Bob

 

6 coats is only a primer……..there are no shortcuts to a deep glass like finish

 

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hello Paul

 

How many coats would you recommend?

 

Did I read somewhere that you had 40 coats on your Barrelback!

 

Bob

[Phil Winks 1Participant @philwinks1]

You Prob did Bob  you know what a perfectionist our Paul is. I must say it really does look so promising

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Morning Bob

 

I used 40 coats and wet & dry (2400 grit) between each coat to get the finish but this goes back to my wish to get a perfect finish……a bit anal as I could have completed the project at 20 coats.

The only advice that I can give is to varnish your boat until you think its finished…..and then add two more coats…………..

 

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Mornin` Curly

 

The finish is quite acceptabell at seven coats………but I`ll do a few more before the red stripes go on and the cutout lettering…….and then a few more to blend them in.

 

Then comes the twentyfourthousanddollar question……….which motor?

 

Think I decided really……..Dave Milbourns recco….etc

 

 

Bob

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