Propellor shaft lubrication

[Paul QuarrellParticipant @paulquarrell63854]

Hi, just read this with interest as I am beginning my build of Joffre as my first RC boat. I have previously made static models. In terms of the propellor shaft two questions:

1. I have a brass prop with the kit. Washer then two nuts together, then open tread to screw on propellor. The washer will but up to the end of shaft. Is this the right configuration?

2. in terms of prop lubrication maintenance I note from a number of model pics that a refuelling piece (brass tube) has been soldered onto the shaft (or flexible) hose. is that a must have or a nice to have?

Thanks in anticipation. PAUL

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Paul. At the prop end, washer-nut-prop. The washer is to take the thrust of the prop on the end bearing. I would do as suggested (and proven to work by Jeremy) put a nylon washer between the bearing and steel/brass washer . Buy or make your own with a wad puch using plastic milk bottle material. The nut locks up on the prop. Adjust play at the other end, Adjust for absolutely minimim play..or.no play at all or even '

No agreement on propshaft lube, if you have read the rest of the post., I would not bother with an oiling tube. Others would, take your pick.

Ashley

[Dodgy Geezer 1Participant @dodgygeezer1]

You will find that prop-tubes with a built-in oiling facility are far more common on vintage boats than modern ones. The same goes for vintage cars and all manner of machinery.

50 years ago or more there was less known about materials science and fewer available exotic materials. Full-size machine practice involved continuous drip lubrication and horrendous maintenance cycles – just look at the maintenance schedule for an old Morris Minor. You had to grease maybe 30 points on the car chassis every three months. Model boats in those days followed the same practice – Taycol motors, for instance, require a drop of oil every 15 mins running. See **LINK** for instance.

Nowadays we have sealed bearings and sophisticated materials like nylon available. Even the steel and brass is probably of better quality. And we don't need to maintain our cars at intervals less often than a year. Continuous oiling is so last century!

[Paul QuarrellParticipant @paulquarrell63854]

Ashley and Dodgy Geezer thanks for your help

Ashley i have added a photo of the trial assembly. The prop came with two nuts as you see but i cannot see the point of that as i will need to make good the grp around the shaft hole i have drilled. Am i correct in thinking that i can use a single nut to lock against the washer (i will also get a nylon washer as recommended) as then i can adjust the shaft so that it protrudes from the opening slightly to allow making good and also free movement of rudder! I appreciate the assistance! PAUL

[Dodgy Geezer 1Participant @dodgygeezer1]

The prop should screw on. The there should be a lock-nut, tightened against the prop, to lock it there. Then it is usual to have a washer to spread the thrust load on the end of the prop-tube. This washer can be a multi-layer brass/nylon stack, or a ball-race, or any other load-spreading design you like…

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Paul. Single lock nut. Sometimes I have seen people put on two nuts or a stack of washers to make up the difference if, for instance there is some adjustment issue, or the shaft does not properly match the tube length, and so some packing is required. IF this was the case, its better having the packers INSIDE the boat.

I have a couple of boats with shafts like this, and have had to use a few washers to get the right adjustment.

Ashley

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Ashley

I have found that using terillium-carbonic alloy for manufacturing the tube and shaft eliminates the need for lubrication and make the boat a lot faster due to the 0% drag.

Paul

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Wow !!! can get that at homebase????

Ashley

[Dodgy Geezer 1Participant @dodgygeezer1]

Wow !!! can get that at homebase????

That's nothing. A few days ago I went down to B&Q to get some Samarium-Cobalt alloy to help secure my hatches, but they only had a Neodymium/Iron/Boron alloy – which would do. Then I got some Ethyl-2-Cyanoacrylate to stick the alloy to the hatches…..

That's what I meant when I said that we are spoilt for material technology nowadays. 70 years ago your choice of glue was Fish, or Horse….

[Paul QuarrellParticipant @paulquarrell63854]

Thanks for the advice Ashley

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