Adhesive for styrene

Adhesive for styrene

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  • #74162
    David Marks 2
    Participant
      @davidmarks2

      Within the next few weeks I will be starting a build of the tug Plaudit which was serialised in Model Boats in 1992. The model features a moulded styrene hull which is supplied in two halves i.e. Port and Starboard, which requires gluing along the centre line. Originally, the designer and builder (David Metcalf) used a paste to reinforce the joint, consisting of pieces if scrap styrene dissolved in liquid poly. Now, 25 years later, is this still the best way of achieving this joint? Possibly there is now a better way using a commercially available paste or possibly thin Cyno which will wick through the joint rather like a capillary solder joint. For all of my models built to date I have used styrene for the superstructure, so I am use to producing the solvent welded joints required.

      #7107
      David Marks 2
      Participant
        @davidmarks2
        #74164
        Paul Freshney
        Participant
          @paulfreshney24971

          Personally, for a good gap-free styrene to styrene joint along the keel line, I would just use liquid 'poly' brushed on the joint, inside and out. That is assuming you can clamp the two hull halves tightly together, but then later reinforce the joint on its inside with a smear of one hour epoxy or similar having 'roughed-up' the styrene hull halves. That should produce a good long lasting watertight joint. Tubes of polystyrene cement are just a thickened liquid poly in a sort of paste form – probably not that much different from what Dave Metcalf did?

          Using too much liquid 'poly', even if mixed with cut-up bits of styrene can mean that the thin styrene hull may distort on its surface as the melting process of the solvent proceeds over a lengthy period when trapped in the joint.

          Thin Cyano? I don't know, but it does tend to be brittle once set.

          There are other glues nowadays such as 'Gorilla', but I have no experience of that brand.

          Some years ago I glued two halves of a Garnock (Caldercraft) styrene hull together with liquid poly, reinforced the joint with epoxy and then dripped thin Cyano over the setting epoxy. There was a little bit of smoke (!), but the final joint was 100% rock solid, watertight and bomb-proof.

          Hope this helps

          Paul Freshney

          #74165
          Colin Bishop
          Moderator
            @colinbishop34627

            For a 'belt and braces' method you could glue the two halves together with liquid poly and then glue a styrene strip over the joint inside the hull to reinforce it. Finish off with an epoxy fillet along the sides of the styrene strip.

            Colin

            #74166
            Tim Cooper
            Participant
              @timcooper90034

              David

              I used polystyrene cement in a tube to join a Revel Sowberry hull, which comes in four parts, and then used strips of styrene glued on the inside over the joints for reinforcement. This was about 11 or 12 years ago and no problems so far.

              I have an Italeri Schnellboot S 100 to start next year and I will use that system on that 3 part hull.

              I have used the 'paste' made by adding small pieces of styrene to liquid poly but not found it particularly easy to use.

              Tim

              Edited By Tim Cooper on 16/11/2017 12:25:39

              #74169
              Trevor Drabble 1
              Participant
                @trevordrabble1

                David , There was a company called Five Star Adhesives ( http://www.shop4glue.com ) on stands 16 + 17 at the recent International Model Boat Show at Leamington Spa who seemed to have a large range of specialist type products , so am sure they will have something suitable for yourself .

                Trevor.

                #74170
                Paul Freshney
                Participant
                  @paulfreshney24971

                  Deluxe Materials have an excellent guide to usage of all their products and suitable applications.

                  http://deluxematerials.shopapps.co.uk/img/cms/pdfs/DeluxeGlueChart2013.pdf

                  Products are available online on from most good model shops.

                  Paul F.

                  #74201
                  David Marks 2
                  Participant
                    @davidmarks2

                    Gentlemen – Many thanks for the responses. I will probably go with the method suggested by Colin Bishop. I normally overcome problems with a belt and braces solution. David Marks

                    #74812
                    David Marks 2
                    Participant
                      @davidmarks2

                      I thought I would give an update on how my styrene Plaudit hull was eventually assembled. The two halves of the hull have a flange edge which when assembled forms the keel. The two halves were carefully aligned and clamped with small bulldog clips. When happy with the final alignment Polyweld solvent was carefully applied both inside and out. After reading the article by Andy Cope in the December 2017 edition of MB, I decided on using the same adhesive as used by Andy i.e. UHU Acrylit. This consists of an adhesive held in a tube (rather like Araldite) and a hardener which is in powder form. It is claimed that it will bond plastics, metal and wood. This was exactly what I wanted as in addition to reinforcing the joint, I also needed to bond to the plastic hull, the motor mount (aluminium angle), the propshaft outer case (brass) and a plywood support for the propshaft located adjacent to the Huco coupling. Very pleased with the finished assembly, the adhesive is quick setting (about 30 minutes), the only downside is the smell, but that soon disappears as it sets. Apparently normal two part epoxy e.g. Araldite may not bond to certain plastics, so I used the UHU product and would certainly use it again.

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