Personally, for a good gap-free styrene to styrene joint along the keel line, I would just use liquid 'poly' brushed on the joint, inside and out. That is assuming you can clamp the two hull halves tightly together, but then later reinforce the joint on its inside with a smear of one hour epoxy or similar having 'roughed-up' the styrene hull halves. That should produce a good long lasting watertight joint. Tubes of polystyrene cement are just a thickened liquid poly in a sort of paste form – probably not that much different from what Dave Metcalf did?
Using too much liquid 'poly', even if mixed with cut-up bits of styrene can mean that the thin styrene hull may distort on its surface as the melting process of the solvent proceeds over a lengthy period when trapped in the joint.
Thin Cyano? I don't know, but it does tend to be brittle once set.
There are other glues nowadays such as 'Gorilla', but I have no experience of that brand.
Some years ago I glued two halves of a Garnock (Caldercraft) styrene hull together with liquid poly, reinforced the joint with epoxy and then dripped thin Cyano over the setting epoxy. There was a little bit of smoke (!), but the final joint was 100% rock solid, watertight and bomb-proof.
Hope this helps
Paul Freshney