Tug boat plans

[pfmtugsParticipant @pfmtugs]

looking for plans of older style tug boats . Possibly early 1900s to 1950s . 

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Hi

My wife is building a TID "tiddler" tug and has an electronic scan copy of the Vic Smeed design. She expanded the plan to 4ft x 6ft to produce 1:1 templates for building a 3ft long model.

If it would help we could e mail you a copy of the scan.

It makes a very nice model that is ideal for fitting a steam engine

  

[Guido SambucettiParticipant @guidosambucetti90794]

No matter the time period you choose, there will be many different types and sizes of tugs. Try the plans service link (in the column to the right of this page), you´ll find about 30 different plans, hopefully one will suit you.

Good modelling!

GUIDO.

[Alan CheungParticipant @alancheung92483]

Hi Fat Controller,

Would you mind mail me a scan copy.

I have ordered a fabric glass hull of TID tug (4x") from kingston model over 20 years ago. Now that I have seach information of this boat and planning to build it next year. Any advice on power system such as model of electrice Motor, and gear box ratio

regards,

Alan 

[Len OchiltreeParticipant @lenochiltree67043]

Hi Alan,

I have made a Tid Tug (photo on my gallery) Its all scratchbuilt, deck ply with balsa planking,and all above is styrene.

The workings, I got the motor from Mobile Marine Models its a big lump!12v and they can advise all the rest.

I have never felt the need to spend out for a gearbox, just carefull use of the left thumb!.

                            Len

[pfmtugsParticipant @pfmtugs]

Hi Fat Controller ,

 Most of my larger tugs 48" and bigger are powered by 600 can motors . Only one has a gear box , and I don’t believe they are worth the money . My direct drives work just great using 4 blade 60mm props .  

 Plus I’ve never buy my motors from hobby shops . All summer I go to lawn sales , rummage sales etc. and buy unwanted cheap R/C monster trucks great source for motors all sizes at the fraction of the cost plus the tires that can be used as bumpers on tugs , just buff off some tread make them look real. 

Also pick up cars and some toy trucks . Great source for lights and sound systems 

Besides saving money , you recycle .

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Hello Alan

Sorry to have taken so long to reply, my computer has suffered an electronic embolism and I have lost most of my data including the TID plan so I can’t e mail you a copy.

Good luck

Paul

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Hi pfmtugs

You are right about hunting through sales for motors etc. I get some great deals at my local farmers machinery auction.

All the best

Paul

[Alan CheungParticipant @alancheung92483]

Fat Controller, Lens & PFmtugs, Thanks for your help.

 regards,

Alan 

[Nicholas AquilinaParticipant @nicholasaquilina88791]

Hi,

First of all hope that every one had a nice christmas.

Please can any one could help me. I am looking to buy detailed drawing to try and build myself a wooden Tug boat or Lifeboat, I will be very glad if one could help me from where I can buy the drawings and may be with some information too.

 Thanks.

[Eddie Price 1Participant @eddieprice1]

I have been reading the messages about tug boats with interest, as I am at the early planning stage for building one. I have downloaded Vic Smeed’s plan for a Clyde Puffer – the Vital Spark – and I am trying to work out how I will tackle the build. Previously I have relied on having some instructions, but this will be my first attempt at really doing it myself. It is going to be plank on frame, which I have done before, but I am not sure how to add the bulwarks. Should the frames extend up to support the bulwarks, or should they only extend up to deck level, with the bulwarks being added afterwards (my previous boats did not have bulwarks) But I suppose then it is going to be difficult to fit and align the bulwarks. I think I have probably answered my question.

 Another  query. I would like the final hull to be clear inside, without any frames. I think the frames are now referred to as shadows, but how do you prevent the planks sticking to the shadows? and what about the keel? how are the shadows attached to the keel?

Eddie Price 

[pfmtugsParticipant @pfmtugs]

 Hi Eddie , I always leave frames high enough to attatch bulwarks , easier to remove after than trying to add  later plus is much stronger while bending bulwarks in place .

When I want a clear hull and keep planks and keel, finish the inside with epoxy not the frames and when dry slowly cut away frames with Dremel tool or sharp knife then recover inside with a light glass cloth and epoxy for strength .

 PFMTUGS 

[TelstarParticipant @telstar]

Hi I read an article on one of the model yatch sites ( will try to find the one on my old computer system father Xmas brought me a new computer) . They advocated putting ‘greasproof’ paper (the sort used in bakeing) on the frames to stop them sticking to the planks thus allowing them to be removed after the hull shell is assembled.

cheers Tom

[Eddie Price 1Participant @eddieprice1]

Thanks pfmtugs for confirming my thoughts on the height of frames. I think I had answered my own question by the time I had finished explaining what I was trying to do.

I thought of covering the frames with balsa and finally coating with glass cloth and resin.

I will have to try Tom’s idea of greasproof paper. It would be nice to be able to remove the frames (or shadows) cleanly rather than having to cut the frames out, although that could always be a last resort.

At the moment I am re-scaling the dxf files which I downloaded to give me an loa of about 800 mm. By the way has anyone experience of TurboCAD. I notice that version 12 can be purchased for about £20 now. I quite like the 3D effects that it has. I have an early version of Autosketch which only has very limited 3D.

Eddie 

[pfmtugsParticipant @pfmtugs]

Hi there , that does sound like a great idea !!!!!

PFMTUGS 

[pfmtugsParticipant @pfmtugs]

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