Small cruiser

[BRYAN ASTONParticipant @bryanaston57723]

Greetings all

Has anyone any suggestions for how I can fit a motor ,a battery ,speed controller, and rudder servo in a cruiser measuring 13.5 inches long x 4 inches wide.

Yours in anticipation

Bryan

[BRYAN ASTONParticipant @bryanaston57723]

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Bryan

I would suggest a 280 size motor, 2 cell Lipo 7.4v Mtronics 10a speed controller with BEC , 2.4 receiver & micro servo, this set up in a small MTB for publication in MB's this year, she is 15" long. 1/48th scale the scale version behind is 1/24th.

Regards Ray

[BRYAN ASTONParticipant @bryanaston57723]

Greetings Ray

Thanks for your quick reply,the set up you mentioned for the 15 inch MTB has this been published yet or did I miss it.

Regards

Bryan

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Bryan

It's in the editorial pipeline I gather, so you didn't miss it

Regards Ray

[Malcolm FraryParticipant @malcolmfrary95515]

For a cruising boat that size, a 280 might well be overkill.

My Lindberg Classic conversions work well with what is basically a servo motor (from a "standard" servo) on 6 volts (5 NiMH AA). If you are not too worried about a dead stop, the servo electronic board is an ideal ESC. The exception is the Minesweeper, which uses two of Actions Pico ESCs and matching mini motors but because of ESC voltage limits, runs on 4.8.

With a small model, the problem is that you only want one battery to work the lot – conventionally 4.8 volts. It is tricky finding small enough motors that are happy with more than 3 volts, I would anticipate a lot of specification reading on fleabay.

Ideally a steering servo gets fitted near the centerline, with the arm parallel to the tiller arm.  It can just as easily lie on its side, the forward and backward motion translates almost as well to steering, given that it might not be completely symmetrical.  Other ways are to mount it where it fits and arrange a linkage, possibly a piano wire bowed through guides or a guide tube to get it past the bit where it should not be seen.  Or leave it in plain view and paint it red, which renders it invisible.

Edited By Malcolm Frary on 16/02/2018 10:30:28

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Bryan. Both suggestions have merit, but (and I have no experience of Malcolm`s option) the 280 is probably a bit easier as the motor is ready to fit and will come with a mount (likely) unless Malcolm says it is easy peasy. It depends on how fast you want to go??

Ashley

[Charles OatesParticipant @charlesoates31738]

I too use servo motors in small models together with the servo electronics for speed control, it works beautifully. The only problem here is what the model is. If it's a naval cruiser, no problem although I doubt it with a 4 inch beam. If it's a cabin cruiser you might want more speed, depending on the hull type. A Huntsman isn't like a river cruiser.

There is a lot of helpful info to be found by looking at what the plastic conversion modelers use, many of these are very small. Try searching plastic magic, both on here and on the web.

Also worth looking at is Dodgy geezers web site on the old eezebilt boats, I'm guessing that your model is similar to these and the info should be a great help. Google eezebilt boats.

 

Chas

 

Edited By Charles Oates on 16/02/2018 11:12:49

[Francis MacnaughtonParticipant @francismacnaughton39461]

Bryan

I have covered converting a number of small plastic models to RC in MB recently. If you can get hold of May 2017 issue there is an article on using a Feetech FS90R continuous rotation servo as the basis for a complete ESC and power unit which will turn a Deans 18mm plastic 3 bladed prop and deliver a good level of power yet weighs less than 8 grams and avoids the tight deadband problem most servo conversions imply.

[BRYAN ASTONParticipant @bryanaston57723]

Greetings, Ashley, Malcolm, Charles,Francis

I shall attempt to take all this info in and I will let you know how I got on in the future, or when the garage warms up.

Thank you all

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