SLEC Mr Tom

[Andy CParticipant @andyc56856]

Hi all

Finally building something again. Mr Tom from SLEC. Nice little model, instructions could be better, but it’s coming along. Now need to fit the stringers along the top and bottom. These are balsa and the instructions call for them to be soaked to make the more pliable. Not done this before so no idea how long they need a soak for.

Any guidance, as a, much appreciated.

Andy.

[Andy CParticipant @andyc56856]

Balsa stringer

[Dave Cooper 6Participant @davecooper6]

Hi Andy,

I think it depends on the degree of curvature and the pliability of the wood. (Balsa comes in various densities, so it really depends on what they've supplied in the kit).

A good test is to hold one end of a length and see how 'whippy' it is….

On the Pilot Cutter – they are 42" long with a scarf joint around 'mid-span'. I made a test piece and this curved quite nicely in the dry state, so, I didn't bother with soaking.

For a smaller hull, you may find that especially around the bow area, with tighter curvature, you need to give it some extra 'persuasion'.

Happy modelling,

Dave

 

Edited By Dave Cooper 6 on 19/06/2022 10:23:28

[Andy CParticipant @andyc56856]

Thanks Dave.
the front is quite a severe bend, and not much give in the balsa. The rest is a pretty straight line. I did a test fit and it will break if I force it. Wondering if I can steam just the part that actually bends rather than trying to soften the whole thing.
Andy

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Andy,

I think steaming is more suitable for proper hardwoods, I would soak the balsa and tape it round a large radius cake tin or similar and let it dry over night and repeat if you need a tighter curve.

Balsa comes in many grades some are brittle Thats why I use Obeche most of the time it's great !

Most of the old plywood designs had substantial breast hook and similar for the chine at the bow this reduces the need to bend the strip at the bow, Not familiar with Mr Tom design, but would be interested in a shot of the drawing ?

Regards Ray

 

Edited By Ray Wood 2 on 19/06/2022 13:27:01

[Andy CParticipant @andyc56856]

Thanks Ray

Not sure what this particular balsa is, but after soaking and leaving to dry a little the super glue did hold it around the breast hook.

[Andy CParticipant @andyc56856]

Looks like I need to tidy up the very front part but happy enough so far

Andy

[Dave Cooper 6Participant @davecooper6]

Just to echo what Ray says – steaming does work as does making shallow 'nicks' every few mil's along the length of the strip. (More than one way to skin a cat !).

If in doubt, make a test piece first…

Regards,

Dave

[Andy CParticipant @andyc56856]

Thanks Dave. Steaming will be my next step.

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Andy,

As I have seen from other build blogs on line the stringers are only 1/8" square strip !! this is a very small boat, you may have more luck using 1/16" X 1/8" strips and laminating the stringers, I'm guessing the ply skins are 1/16" ply ? good luck with that I'd use 1/32" ply for a 16" model.

Keep us posted as you go along.

Regards Ray

[Andy CParticipant @andyc56856]

tome for the hull sides. Looks like I need to shape the stringers to give something to add glue too. Any suggestions, I was thinking just sandpaper. I have permagrit sanding blocks, but what sort of angle am I looking for.

[Richard SimpsonParticipant @richardsimpson88330]

Use the deck as a guide Andy. Permagrit blocks are a lot easier to control than sandpaper and much easier to maintain a consistent angle.

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

Permagrit is good and the wedge block is very versatile and able to get into corners.

**LINK**

I have also found the Modelcraft PAB1200 pads to be extremely useful too and a good bit cheaper! Available from a a wide range of suppliers.

**LINK**

Colin

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Here we go Andy,

Before you worry about rubbing down to shape you need parts added ! the stem doubler should be pre bevelled but as it's fixed I suggest a balsa infill be glued on to allow you to sand the stem to the same angle as the stringer at deck level. the chine stringer also stops shy of the stem so I also suggest you add another stringer to the fixed on to give you some meat to sand down, this may sound extreme but to have gluing surfaces I see no alternative really.

I also think fixing the bottom skins will be difficult, so I'd use balsa block or lamination of balsa to fill the gap below the chine. Although this design is mentioned as a Les Rowell design I doubt had this method of construction in mind, this is the way he would have built it as his Sea Hornet runabout. I hope this helps Regards Ray

[Andy CParticipant @andyc56856]

Hi all

not posted updates on Mr Tom for a while, but have made progress.

Andy

[Andy CParticipant @andyc56856]

Deck part in the photo is from a boat my son is currently building. More on that in another thread.
Andy

[Steve FinnParticipant @stevefinn59689]

Hi Andy, I'm currently building this as my first RC Boat – could you post pics of your RC install, and/or give me an idea of the motor/battery/prop configuration please? I'm looking for scale-ish speeds not lunacy! Thanks.

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