Simple start.

[Ian Bell 1Participant @ianbell1]

Brian,

This one has been on Ebay, numerous times, but has not sold

**LINK**

[Boiler BriParticipant @boilerbri]

Yours looks a nice job. The one on eBay is too much money. I think he will be lucky if he gets that.

 

I gave the building board a coat of varnish last night.  

I hope I can get the drawing onto the sheet of ply this weekend.

Brian

Edited By Brian Dickinson 1 on 03/08/2017 06:43:58

[BanjomanParticipant @banjoman]

Brian,

As an alternative to glueing the paper to the plywood, a variant tracing technique, similar to the one mentioned by Ray Wood, is to make a set of photo copies, and then rub soft (B3 or softer) pencil onto the back of the paper, as it were underneath the printed lines. Then just tape the photo copy the right way up onto the plywood, and trace the lines with a hard (H3 or harder) pencil, and hey presto: they are traced onto the plywood!

Mattias

Edited By Banjoman on 03/08/2017 08:32:18

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Brian

The building board is a work of art, much too posh to build a boat on Welcome back Mattias hope the move went well.

Regards Ray

[Ian Bell 1Participant @ianbell1]

Brian,

You are right about the one on Ebay; however nice it might be, it is overpriced. Obviously the seller doesn't see that as it has been on and off the site for months , always at the same price. There is another auction for a Starlet which needs work which has been going on for at least 12 months, for which the starting price is best part of £300!

[BanjomanParticipant @banjoman]

Ray,

Warmest thanks — but so as not to hi-jack Brian's thread, I'll answer you more properly over in my Moonbeam thread …

Mattias

[Boiler BriParticipant @boilerbri]

Thank you Ray. As i near retirement i thought i had batter make one that will last.

I Like your idea Mattias, at some stage i will have a go, but for now i am on the cut and glue method. I bought some mounting glue, so i better use it at the price i paid.

I will add some photos when i have it all glued down.

Regards

Brian

[Boiler BriParticipant @boilerbri]

So tonight I photocopied some of the formers. Then cut them out with the sharpest scissors I had. I ran out of copier paper so I only managed a few of the formers. I bought some of the 3m mounting glue (I think I dealt with a man called hood) at the shop, the robin begger 😠 That stuff is not cheap. It did the job better than the gloy I used at my first attempt though so I should not moan. 🙄 (We Yorkshire people).

So here is what I managed:-

Glued down

Ready for cutting.

All cut out nice and neat. I'm not going to be able to do any more until Sunday now. I just need some more paper and we're off again.

Brian

[Tim CooperParticipant @timcooper90034]

Brian

I used Pritt Stick from Wilkos recently. It stuck the paper templates down without any problem, about £1.99.

Tim

[Boiler BriParticipant @boilerbri]

Hello Tim. Thank you for the suggestion. I bet if I looked in the grandchildren glue and stick box I could have found some😩. I went the 3m way because of an earlier post suggestion and the fact that the paper can be removed with a little heat.

I wil have a go on a later project.

Brian

[Boiler BriParticipant @boilerbri]

Ok. So I made the rest of the formers tonight after printing them and cutting them out.

I now have to mark out the back bone or keel frame? This is too big to photo copy so I am going to try the tracing way and then rubbing the trace onto the sheet of ply. If it looks ok and I can see the outline I will cut it.

More tomorrow hopefully.

Brian

[Tim CooperParticipant @timcooper90034]

Brian

Just ordered some of the 3M Spray from Amazon. Should have been £9 odd for 200 ML, but reduced to £5.50! Just in case you wanted anymore.

Tim

[Boiler BriParticipant @boilerbri]

Hi Tim. Thank you for that.

I haven't had much chance this weekend for an update. I was busy with the north wales model engineers in Llandudno.

I hope to get back on the cutting this week and carry on with the build.

I did buy a copy of model boats and was happy with the content but not the paper, it seems it's the same stuff as my model engineer mag. The middle page always comes out and that is really annoying.

Brian

[Boiler BriParticipant @boilerbri]

 

 

With the weather looking poor for the weekend I am hoping to move forwards a little with the cutting out of the frames. Staples very kindly copied my plans as the copier at work was only A4, it only cost 4 beer credits so it was well worth it.

Today I will cut the last sections out of the copy and get them glued down onto the 3mm ply.

The centre section of the plan shows a large sailwinch. As this is on the plan can I take it to be the correct size? I want to get my servos ordered so that I can get them mounted in the frames before I start to put the sheet sides on the hull.

My thoughts go out to the people who were caught up in the trouble in Spain. My wife goes to salou in three weeks an she is really nervous.

Edited By Brian Dickinson 1 on 19/08/2017 08:24:57

[Malcolm FraryParticipant @malcolmfrary95515]

The sail servo representation will have been whatever the original builder used.

Times have moved on and what was state of the art only a few years ago will very probably have a modern equivalent that is smaller, lighter, costs less and works better. A standard size "high torque" servo is perfectly capable of handling 400 square inches of sail, possibly more, depending on the weather. A modern multi turn winch will do the same job at a similar price, but with generally simpler fitting.

[Gareth JonesParticipant @garethjones79649]

Hi Brian,

I would suggest a sail winch such as the Hitec HS765HB would probably be suitable for a Panache. There is a bigger alternative in the HS815BB but that would probably be a bit of an overkill. The picture below shows a typical installation of such a winch. Looking at the section of your drawing above it looks like the sheet to the main boom is doubled around a pulley on one of the sailwinch arms in order to increase the travel of that sheet and boom.

Gareth

[Boiler BriParticipant @boilerbri]

Thank you for the advice. Will different makes of servo work with different make of receiver? I have not bought my radio yet

Brian

[Boiler BriParticipant @boilerbri]

Ok. Had a look at the hitachi servoHS765HB. Looks about 30 quid. So I take it I would have to make an arm to suit the winch to make it double ended.

Just a thought. If I use a drum winch can I make the main and jib work from it or is it a single drum?

Brian

[Boiler BriParticipant @boilerbri]

 

This afternoon I decided to 'machine' out the middle of the formers as per the plans. I clamped an old piece of 1/2 ply to the Miller and used it as a free hand router. I was quite surprised at how easily it cut. The direction of the cutter tried to pull it off to one side but I could easily counter it. Hey presto all cut out and ready to sand up.

Once I had cut around the lines I cut the piece out with a sharp Stanley knife on the centre line and a steel ruler to guide me. I then layed the cut piece on the other half, drew around it with 3mm allowance for the cutter and then cut the other half out.

My milling machine will run at 2800 rpm so using a new 3mm slot drill it was a nice Cut I have yet to remove the paper which I hope has not been on too long 😩 And had chance to stick too much. I am off to Ireland for three days and will be taking all the parts with me, on an evening I can try and get all the paper off.

The instructions call for bits of 1/4" balsa to be stuck to the building board and the centre frame glued to that. This only allows you to fix the bottom sheets and then you have to lift the frame assembly off the board to do the sides. Having thought about this I prefer to leave it on the base board and fit the sides as well. So I have left tabs on the middle frame which lift the frame up away from the board.

The blocks are screwed and lightly glued to the board. With it being varnished the glue may not take too well and I will be able to get them off at a later date🤔

So now I cut out the centre of the frame with a Stanley knife and modelling knife. Boy does my arm and hands ache after that. It took me nearly two hour of carefully cutting against the ruler, trying not to slip and loose a finger and keep,the blade cutting. 🤗 Well it's out now and I can fix it to the blocks. I cut the outside with my bandsaw and then sanded it up I think the tabs will cut off easily when I am ready.

Ttfn Brian

 

Edited By Brian Dickinson 1 on 20/08/2017 18:07:08

[Dodgy Geezer 1Participant @dodgygeezer1]

Posted by Brian Dickinson 1 on 19/08/2017 17:24:28:

Thank you for the advice. Will different makes of servo work with different make of receiver? I have not bought my radio yet

Brian

Short answer – yes. Servos should have 3 wires :

Red or light colour – DC+ (in the middle of the of the plug)

Black or dark colour – DC- (at one end of the plug)

Buff, White or neutral colour – Signal (at other end of plug)

The servo needs to be plugged in the right way round to make it work, but plugging it in the wrong way round should not damage anything. It just won't work that way around…

[Boiler BriParticipant @boilerbri]

Thank you Dodgy. I am away for a few days. However airtek are local to me and I am planning on visiting later on in the week.

Cheers

Brian

[Malcolm FraryParticipant @malcolmfrary95515]

A winch drum is commonly a double setup. but exactly how it is used is up to the user. You can have a single line to each sail on each element of the drum, or one piece of string on one element leading to a splitting block at a convenient place, probably above deck. Or a continuous loop using both elements with take-offs along the length of the loop wherever it is convenient. Versatile things, drum winches, especially if the drum is a shrouded type to reduce the chance of slack lines tangling.

[Boiler BriParticipant @boilerbri]

Hi Malcolm. That's interesting. I have only seen the hitec one on airtek's web site which looks like a bobbin. Where can I look at the shrouded types?

Brian

[Ian Bell 1Participant @ianbell1]

Brian,

While you can use drum type winches on these smaller boats, usually running one line out of the boat with the two sheets joining it to each sail, the arm type works extremely well. My Panache is set up with an arm type as per the plan and sails beautifully. As long as the servo has a reasonable torque output, it is probably easier to set up than the drum type.

[Malcolm FraryParticipant @malcolmfrary95515]

Posted by Brian Dickinson 1 on 21/08/2017 04:10:28:

Hi Malcolm. That's interesting. I have only seen the hitec one on airtek's web site which looks like a bobbin. Where can I look at the shrouded types?

Brian

Component Shop, Howes, Servo City, HobbyKing, probably many others.

If a drum is just used as a device to pull a line, and that line is tensioned with an elastic line to ensure that it never gets any slack in light winds, it really is the simplest to set up. I say that having used both in the same hull. Mounting the drum was much simpler since the pull is only in one direction, with no twisting moment, but thats just a personal view. The cost difference between a small drum and a high torque servo was minimal. Even an arm type, in light winds, will tend to leave loose line below deck until the wind pulls it out. While designing a knot tying machine is difficult, nature seems to do it very easily.

The shroud on the modern types consists of a closely fitting upside down top hat that the bobbin sits in, no reason why it shouldn't drop down over the bobbin for a home made conversion, but a bare one with the tension line works well.

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