Sheets through deck?

[Norman AndrewParticipant @normanandrew17413]

Hello all. I'm a keen new pensioner previously into Classic Bike restoration. I now want to try my hand at Classic? Yachts. I am building a Vic Smeed Starlet from scratch and original plans and have also bought a 36inch Vic Smeed free sailing Snow Goose and am converting it to RC. Now my question. — How do I best take sail sheets through the deck without causing friction and wear? (servos inside – sails outside!) There does not seem to be any items for sale in the big online model shops so I'm guessing its DIY like pop rivets with the nail removed? Any ideas appreciated. Norman

[Norman AndrewParticipant @normanandrew17413]

[Gareth JonesParticipant @garethjones79649]

Hi Norman,

There are lots of options and a pop rivet with the mandrel removed would probably be OK if the corners of the hole are smoothed off. If you are just looking for the sheet to go vertically through the deck and up to the boom it would probably work quite well.

There are various commercially available fittings which do the job. However you have to go to a yachting specialist rather than the normal model boat suppliers. If you look on the Nylet website (http://www.nylet-sails.co.uk/index.html) or Sails etc website (http://www.sailsetc.com/fithull.htm) under fairleads or sheet leads you will find a number of options.

If the sheet has to run horizontally under the deck and then out horizontally over it you can use 1/8 inch diam brass tubing bent to a suitable shape, as on my wife's latest restoration shown below. Just heat the tubing up to a dull red heat before trying to bend it.

Alternatively you can buy through deck pulleys as on her Marblehead as shown below

Regards,

Gareth

[Kimosubby ShipyardsParticipant @kimosubbyshipyards]

Hello Norman,

I build and sail yachts of all types. You will find all you want at the specialist yachting firms, Nylet www.nylet.co.uk/ or SailsEtc www.sailsetc.com/ to mention just a couple.

There are several specific devices for taking sheets through the deck, the simplest is an S shaped tube, usually stainless steel, which has a plate fitted to it so that it can be threaded through a hole in the deck. You do need to align them with the winch or lever arm beneath. Another system is a piar of roller sheaves in a plastic housong which again fits in the deck.

On this yacht there are two devices on deck right at the stern, till I realised I could do the same with just one!

On simple builds I find a small pulley below deck mounted on the keelson, to impart an upword direction for the sheet, the sheet can then come out through a short piece of brass tubing, then run through an brass eyelet.

Good searching – Kimosubby

Edited By Kimosubby Shipyards on 29/03/2013 16:56:49

Edited By Colin Bishop, Website Editor on 30/03/2013 14:39:27

[Kimosubby ShipyardsParticipant @kimosubbyshipyards]

Norman,

I see you have started two threads on this topic, see the other one for my answer. Hi Gareth, you show what I just tried to describe.

Kim

Threads merged – Colin

Edited By Colin Bishop, Website Editor on 30/03/2013 14:40:35

[Norman AndrewParticipant @normanandrew17413]

Thanks both for the specialist links and advice. Not sure what I did wrong with the (2) postings? Interesting model barge site Kim. Cheers Norman

[Gareth JonesParticipant @garethjones79649]

Hi Norman,

I have just been fitting the sailwinch in my wife's latest restoration job which is a 1952 Daniels designed Razorbill. It has languished in various sheds, garages and attics awaiting completion for about 50 years. I have taken a few photos today which might add a bit of further explanation if you are still considering what to do on your model.

The system uses a Hitec sail arm servo mounted centrally in the hull.

The sheets run aft inside the hull and come through the deck near the stern using a through deck pulley. Note there is only one sheet fitted at present but it illustrates the idea.

Heres the pulley before fitting.

The sheet then runs forward to an eyebolt mounted in the deck the apppropriate distance from the mast. You have to juggle the figures from the length and angular movement of the sail arm and the position of the eyebolt so that the swing of the sail boom is about 80 degrees either side of the centreline. If you are not sure how to do this build a little wooden mockup and experiment on the bench. Its much easier than trying to do it with the sail servo in the boat and ending up with lots of trial and error holes drilled in your deck.

The sheet length needs to be adjustable and the usual method is to use bowsies. In this case the length of line pulled in by the servo is greater than the distance between the through deck pulley and the eyebolt so a bowsie in that section would jam the line at one end or the other. I have therefore put the adjustment inside the boat, along the sail arm. Its slightly less convenient since it means you have to remove the main hatch to make the adjustment but once its set it should be OK for a while. The sheet to the jib is much longer and there will be plenty of room above the deck to put the adjustment bowsie in that section.

Edited By Gareth Jones on 05/04/2013 15:45:17

Edited By Gareth Jones on 05/04/2013 15:47:10

[LARRY WHETTONParticipant @larrywhetton68737]

Hi Garsth where you buying your deck bits and eyes , ..?.. nice and tidy….Larry..

[Gareth JonesParticipant @garethjones79649]

HI Larry,

The nickel plated eyebolt and the through deck pulley are from Nylet. The small brass eyebolt in the sail arm is from Modelling Timbers.

Regards

Gareth

[LARRY WHETTONParticipant @larrywhetton68737]

Hi Gareth,

Sorry i mis spelt your name, and thank you for info cheers Larry..

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