Thanks chaps.
Nevins. Yes , undercuts….wont be any as the bottoms will be flat, the turrets sit on seperate round supports which will be seperate so no bother there. Not sure what colour the catalyst is, yet! but the tin says flexible product so…
Ian…will have a gander at the website. The product….from “Hobbies”….they also sell a petroleum jelly release agent which I am banking on IS actually P.J as per the chemist…cant see any reason why not.
Neil. yup, seen loads of these polyurethane castings, used a few myself. I only need 6 in a fairly solid non fiddly shape so am banking on yer bog standard resin as being ok…we will see,
Bob. me old mucker. Plasticine. i have had mixed results using this. i find it doesnt release without distortion very well..I dare say it is lack of practice. So saying I have successfully cast some resin shields for a few Lone*Star moveable knights O.K, but these were fairly flat. Production line and balsa. I did have the same thought, balsa being soft and all that, and the numbers game is certainly a good ploy. The boat is going to have a camo later-war finish, thus either side will be either grey or green (yes) AND SO I only need three to be identical, either side (I am not silly, you know).*
Nothing wrong with casting stuff in plaster of paris/whatever (in case anyone reading is a bit dubious). Good idea, and I may well try the plaster if the resin is ..difficult.
I believe in “eye-modelling. If it looks right, is IS right. Proportion is in the eye of the beholder, whatever the drawing may say, and I always feel free to alter as per what i like the look of. Which is handy as I usually work from blown up line drawings or photos !
Lifeboats on my Titanic…for instance. There are 16, in 4 groups of four (and not enough, eh?…although the shipyard apparently wanted to fit more, White Star Line was more interested in aesthetics and limited the compliment to the totally inadequate 4 groups of 4 which satisfied the then current regulation).. BUT although in theory they should all be the same, you only need to make 4 groups of 4 the same….a small difference will not be noticed between them. Its a bit heretical..but is sure speeds up build time. I would challenge anyone to see the shortcuts I use, when the model is on the water.
The Sunderland “Shorty” is a point in question. People look at it on the water, and instantly recognise it as Sunderland. Job done. Doesnt matter that its rather square and to be honest, crude….they know what it is and their brain adjusts to the proportion of the model. Works every time.
I use the same process for my band….a good, popular number gets them all going…they hear the tune in their mind, , they all start singing it on the dance floor: the arrangement is rubbish..all unison…doesnt matter.
Need to know what people look at. I have made every single l little bit on Berengar`s Argus WW1 aircraft carrier barring the small Sopwith camels, bought at great cost….and what do people see…”ooo look at the little planes on that boat”. makes u mad!
Balsa bits need a lot of preparation I find, but MDF, when soaked well in sanding sealer, goes very solid, and is easy to finish off as it goes goes rock hard. NOT that I use it for much other than small parts!
On a previous post someone wondered about planking with MDF I believe…. My problem with this would not be the waterproofness (once painted with sanding sealer or something) but the glueability…it only seems to glue to the surface, and the top layer pulls off really easy..making it unsuitable for high-stress applications.
Sorry to blather on. Thanks for the replies. Thoughts of chairman Needham.
Ashley (supping some more wine)