R/C Skyfly FS-GT3B

[Alan Lindsay-RalphParticipant @alanlindsay-ralph24743]

Hi,

I am having trouble controlling the motor on my boat, when I connect it all up the motor goes into full speed with touching the trigger, if I pull back on the trigger the motor slows and stops, When I realise trigger it goes back to full speed. The rudder is working fine. How do I correct it so when I pull the trigger it accelerates and release to slow down and stop. New to this. My first model boat.

Alan

[Alan Lindsay-RalphParticipant @alanlindsay-ralph24743]

Trouble with throttle control

[Empire ParkstoneParticipant @empireparkstone]

Brushed or Brushless and which Esc and did you have a card for setting up

[Alan Lindsay-RalphParticipant @alanlindsay-ralph24743]

Brushed, yes used a flycolour programming card but left it on default values as was not sure what to do. ESC is a Flycolor 120A.

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

This sounds rather like the 'servo-reverse' switch on the transmitter for the throttle channel needs changing over – that's assuming there is one. Steerwheel transmitters are not very popular for model boats, especially where you want both forwards and reverse.

Dave M

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

Alan

Ref servo reverse, see Page 16 here **LINK**

DM

[Alan Lindsay-RalphParticipant @alanlindsay-ralph24743]

Yes it does have servo reverse. Have checked all channels and they are on NORMAL. I know these type of transmitter are not the best for boats. It was cheap and just wanted one to get used to using and setting one up before I brought a different one.

Alan

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

Did you try using the servo reverse? One would expect the factory/default setting to be called "Normal".

DM

[Alan Lindsay-RalphParticipant @alanlindsay-ralph24743]

Well it's working correctly now. I changed the servo rev from normal to rev. Also set throttle range by holding trigger while connecting esc with battery and its now does what it should when I pull the trigger. Now was it changing the servo rev or setting throttle range. Think I will change the servo rev back to normal see what happens. Big learning curve this. Glad I'm learning on a cheap transmitter. Should make things easier when I change it.

Do you have a opinion on a good stick transmitter to buy. Do not require loads of channels.

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

When I got fed up of using multi channel helicopter systems to control my boats I went to Steve Webb and bought a cheap and cheerful 2 channel kit, I couldn't find it on Steves site so this is a link to someone who sells them but shop around as I paid £30 for mine.

Very impressed as it as simple as 'plug and play'

Paul

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

Alan

I'm pleased that my suggested remedy worked for you. You'll find that setting the throttle range doesn't change the 'direction' of the throttle trigger whereas reversing the 'servo' switch does.

As regards new sets, it depends on just how many/few channels you think you'll need and whether or not you regard computerised functions as necessary or optional. As there are very few three-channel radios around with two sticks then your choice is either a two channel or a four-channel-plus. Paul's suggested Absima system looks pretty good fior a basic two channel set. There is the new Planet 2+2 radio which has two single axis sticks and two further channels controlled respectively by a 3-position switch and a rotary knob **LINK** It isn't however computerised. There are any number of Chinese-made multi-channel radios availabe but, as Paul says, they are designed for RC aircraft and helicopters so many of their computer functions are useless for boats – although servo end-point adjustment is very useful, as are exponential throw and model memory.
These sets all have the advantage of being cheap c/w my first 4-channel proportional radio. That was a Ripmax-Futaba Digimax which cost £125 in 1967 – which is apparently £2,300 in today's money. These days I use Hitec sets exclusively.

Dave M

Edited By Dave Milbourn on 05/03/2019 15:42:25

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Alan,

Yes I use HITEC for flying, around £85 for 5 channels, Carson 2 channel for boats & a good servo included for £35.

I have more expensive Futaba computer radios on the old 35kHz for flying they are more robust but still only do what the modern cheap sets do!

My first decent radio was a Skyleader Courier £187 in 1980.

Regards Ray

Edited By Ray Wood 2 on 05/03/2019 17:28:58

[Empire ParkstoneParticipant @empireparkstone]

Dave whilst I bow to your superior knowledge I have a Spectrum r/c system similar pistol grip type all my reverse switches do is reverse the trigger or wheel action for throttle or rudder making them go in the opposite direction for no way does it alter the throttle other than direction.Though these are mechanical switches not on screen Curious

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

E-P

Quite. The 'servo reverse' function simply changes the direction wrt the stick/trigger while a separate function will alter the amount of throw/end points. Non-computer radios reverse the direction of throw via a switch for each channel, while computer radios tend to have this function built into the programming software.

If what I said implied anything else then please accept my apologies for any confusion.

DM

[Empire ParkstoneParticipant @empireparkstone]

Thanks Dave I just thought there may be something different with those type

EP

[Malcolm FraryParticipant @malcolmfrary95515]

Just to muddy the water a bit, some radios did not have their "neutral center" actually at center. This gave the effect that, on switching the servo reverse, the servo would take up a new position, or the ESC would gain a new neutral position. Getting technical, while the rest of the world liked 1.5mS pules as neutral, with longer being forward and shorter being reverse, Futaba liked 1.25mS for center, and the opposite direction logic. Still within the limits of the "standard", but different enough to try to achieve a "lock-in".

The old style sets had switches to set between "N" &"R" and a mechanical slider to trim the center point. Computer sets do it via their programming, some low cost sets use press buttons for trim because they are cheaper to arrange than the mechanical equivalent. The downside of this is that there is no visual indication of where you are up to.

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