Powering 1/96 warship

[Martyn MathewsParticipant @martynmathews86345]

Hi, looking at the electrics for my 1/96 scale Leander. Was going to use SLA but weight is an issue so thought about these
http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Overlander
wired in parallel . Action P107 power board,P94 dual esc and mixer. Question is:
Will they give me enough power for 2 385 motors or would I be better with 3 or 4?
Anything else I need to be aware of?

Thanks guys

Martyn

Edited By Martyn Mathews on 12/05/2016 13:52:42

[Martyn MathewsParticipant @martynmathews86345]

Batteries

[Charles OatesParticipant @charlesoates31738]

Hi Martin, I use 2 x 385 motors in my Emden, similar in size to your model. They run on 7.2 volts nicad, 3.3 ah. Flat out it is well over scale speed good for a laugh or getting me out of a bit of trouble. I run at about 23 throttle most of the time.

I've yet to run the battery down, 385 motors are very frugal.

Hope that helps.

Charles.

[Charles OatesParticipant @charlesoates31738]

Sorry, forgot to say this. Batteries and safety are critical, I always buy from a trusted model supplier such as Component shop.

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

Martyn

I wouldn't argue with Chas as he has a similar model, but you could save a few quid by using the Lite (10A) version of the P94. It also has a lower profile because there are no heat-sink tabs sticking up – could be helpful if there's not much headroom down below.

Dave M

[Martyn MathewsParticipant @martynmathews86345]

Thanks Charles and Dave, so to be sure you reckon 1 battery would be enough? I do like the lipo’s as you dont get the memory problem with them? I am also putting radar motors and possibly hangar door motor,along with a full lighting system!! So maybe 2 batteries?
Dave,on the action parts,do they get hot as I am thinking of putting all the electrics in a watertight box, just in case!

Thanks

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

385's are slow-revving high torque motors. I don't imagine anything would get even remotely warm on 7.2v.

NiMH batteries don't suffer the 'memory effect' that blighted NiCADs and you'll get ten time as many charge-discharge cycles from a NiMH pack as from an equivalent LiPo. If you are going to festoon the thing with lights and working doors then I'd suggest two batteries in parallel, feeding the P107 via a P103 Parallel Power Board.

You can now get 2600maH AA NiMH packs if Sub-C is too big/heavy. Full details are on Component Shop's website.

Dave M

[Charles OatesParticipant @charlesoates31738]

I've just realised that I put nicad, that's age for you! I did mean NIMH. As Dave said, no memory. The motors are running at a fraction of their ability, no heat at all, assuming you are using a sensible prop.

 

Chas

 

Edited By Charles Oates on 12/05/2016 16:32:11

[Martyn MathewsParticipant @martynmathews86345]

Thats great guys 2x NiMH it is. The waterproof box is for the P107 etc. so do these boards get hot and would I need a fan in the lid? Sorry for the inane questions but this is totally new to me!? Charles, my prop is 30mm from sitek, would that make any difference?

Thanks
Martyn

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Charles. I have more than a few boats powered by 385`s, some turning 3 bladed 40mm brass props and the motors do not even get warm so no issues on 30mm props. As a bonus, an MFA 380 or a speed 400 will fit straight in if you are disappointed with the performance, they will turn a 30mm prop on 7.2V easy.

​Waterproof box???? Are you thinking of allowing water into your boat? No need for a waterproof box. Sit the superstructure on a combing…use nylon tillers so you can easily fit and adjust them, and then the hele deck can be glued in place, preventing leaks.

A quick surf has provided an overall length of 48 inches and a 5.5 inch beam for your ship. I cant see an issue with weight and you should be ok with a 3700 mAhr or 4200 mAhr or something capacity Nimh 7.2v battery.

Ashley

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

The problem with putting a fuseboard into a waterproof box is access – or lack of it. I don't use them in my scale models and I've only seen them in models where regular water ingress is to be expected i.e. yachts and very fast racers.

In answer to your questions 1. No, it doesn't; and 2. No, you don't. Mount it upright where you can easily get at it to check and, if necessary, change a fuse. As long as it is above any water slopping around in the bilges then you will have no problems.

Dave M

[Martyn MathewsParticipant @martynmathews86345]

Thanks Ashley, I have twin 5 blade 30mm props. The waterproof box is overkill I know, but being a total noob I read about sinkings and these electrics are so expensive I wouldn’t want to lose them! You’re right about the weight not being an issue but had I gone for the SLA, at almost 3Kg, I originally thought I think I would definitely have needed the waterproof box! 😁 The NiMH sticks will be just right.

Thanks again
Martyn

[Martyn MathewsParticipant @martynmathews86345]

Thank you Dave I guess the general opinion is forget the waterproof box! Thanks everyone for the valuable input, it is very good for a noob to know there are helpful guys like you to turn to. (is that a bit too grovelling?) 😆

[Malcolm FraryParticipant @malcolmfrary95515]

NiCad "memory" was largely a myth that has hung on over the years because a lot of people prefer magic to facts when it comes to anything electric is involved. A good read here -http://www.dansdata.com/gz011.htm

[Martyn MathewsParticipant @martynmathews86345]

Interesting, thanks. I used Makita a lot when window fitting and found their batteries seemed to last forever and they were nicad in those days. its just a choice of cost and good battery care. I will be going for 2 NiMH in parallel and try to charge them correctly!

Thanks
Martyn

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