Paint Advice Please

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

I usually paint the Plasticard window frames on my Faireys with chrome effect paint but with the Faun they need to be dark brown.

What paint do you chaps suggest? Humbrol Acrylic? And do you have to prime/undercoat?

Chris

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Ordinary Humbrol enamel for me, but i would also try my trusted Pebo craft acrylic. Not used Humbrol acrylic.

Perhaps a grey primer first?? I would use Rustins Acrylic grey for whatever topcoat I used.

Ashley

[Tim CooperParticipant @timcooper90034]

I try to use Acrylics if I can now, but that’s just because I have lots of them from painting Warhammer figures etc. Easy to blend to get the shade you want

Tim

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Thanks, I think I’ll go with an acrylic then. I’ll get some different colours as will be useful for detailing small items.

Chris

[Richard SimpsonModerator @richardsimpson88330]

Of course it is not quite as simple as enamels or acrylics!  Acrylics come in water based varieties and solvent based varieties, which then need care when considering compatibility.  Many people tend to think of acrylics as water based but one of the biggest and most widely used ranges, Tamiya, are solvent based.

I find water based acrylics tend to be a bit weak on coverage so usually need more coats and are not as easy to get a perfect finish.  I’m a great fan of Tamiya acrylics as they go on superbly and have very good coverage but, being solvent based do not lend themselves to certain weathering techniques, such as chipping effects.  I still like my enamels as well, good coverage and the longer drying times give more time for the paint to self level.

A rule of thumb, which is certainly not etched in stone but you have to know what you are doing to stray from it, is to use the primer specifically made for the paint you are using.   Most manufacturers include clear coats and different coloured primers for a specific range of paints so you can be sure you are not going to have any compatibility challenges.  Safe bets for a very wide range of applications are still Halfords car body primers. Most acrylics and enamels will go on top safely.

[Tim CooperParticipant @timcooper90034]

Acrylics do allow some really nice effects for figure painting. A few e of examples from my Warhammer figure painting days.  Tim

[Tim CooperParticipant @timcooper90034]

Not how one loaded twice . Maybe that’s using a phone with old fingers?

Tim

[Richard SimpsonModerator @richardsimpson88330]

Lovely shading, something I have never been able to do with acrylics.

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Thanks for the additional information Richard, detailed and informative as usual.

Having said I was going to go with acrylic I did some reading when looking to buy and changed my mind and then decided to get (I haven’t yet) Humbrol Enamel and its primer.

But now that you have said that Tamiya isn’t water based that is another option I will look at as I need to get some paint to finish my Tamiya Unimog build off with.

Chris

[Richard SimpsonModerator @richardsimpson88330]

The vast majority of models I have made over the years have mostly been painted with either Humbrol, almost exclusively in the early years, and then Tamiya acrylics.  I started to use them more in the 70s and 80s because they had some very useful paints such as metallic finishes and clear colours.  As I was into model motorcycles at the time there were very useful.

Consequently I still like enamels for ease of airbrushing, dry brushing and obtaining a good gloss finish and I still use Tamiya acrylics for convenience and various weathering processes.  I also have a vast collection of water based acrylics, mainly because I had the chance to buy them for next to nothing.  I do use them for figures but not much else so they are a bit of an indulgence.

There are also oil based paints, which are really handy for creating rust streaks!

I used to have big challenges airbrushing acrylics and ended up with a clogged airbrush after a few minutes.  I gave up and used only enamels.  Then I did a weathering course where the chap told me that water based acrylics in an airbrush were always a challenge but Tamiya paint works very well.  The process is this:

1) Buy a new pot of Tamiya acrylic paint.

2) Top the pot up to full with Tamiya acrylic thinners.

3) Add two ball bearings.

4) Shake well.

This paint can now be used directly from the pot in the airbrush.  The technique works very well and the paint flows beautifully in the airbrush.

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Useful to know. I might get an airbrush at some point but for now I’ll stick with brushing. My builds lend themselves to the “straight out of the showroom” look rather than the lived a life look! I have got some rattle cans I was going to use on the Faireys but will now use on other builds now.

Thanks, Chris

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