Paddle shafts

[Alasdair AllanParticipant @alasdairallan37423]

Hi – i suspect the paddle shaft on my model paddler is contributing to the difficulty in making her steady when going astern. One wheel has several degrees worth of loose “give” against the shaft, due to too much of a flat being ground. I am going to try to make a new shaft, but, not having a lathe, it is no easy task putting the two flats on exactly the same point of the surface of the shaft. Any top tips on how to achieve this much appreciated!

[Richard SimpsonParticipant @richardsimpson88330]

Have you thought about adding a spacer to the inside of the wheel hub to take up the slack?

[Len Morris 2Participant @lenmorris2]

Hi Alasdair,

Is the play sideways or rotational?  If it’s sideways then Richard’s spacer solution should work well.  If it’s rotational against flats on the shaft then think about building up the flat surfaces with soft solder and getting a snug fit with a needle file.  You could even try hard silver solder but I doubt it would be necessary.

Len

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

Is the shaft a common diameter rod? If so you could just buy a new length of rod. On my paddler the shafts are actually several brass tubes inside one another as I needed a smaller diameter at the end for mounting the 3D printed feathering wheels which need an outboard mounting for the feathering mechanism connection. I rather doubt I shall try and assemble these now as having fitted the Glynn Guest design wheels (modified) I don’t think they would stand up to the stresses imposed on them.

There are two half shafts on my paddler sharing a common central bearing as they are independently driven. Shaft diameter is 4mm.

A problem I have found is that a very small amount of play at the hub is amplified by the time it gets to the rim of the wheel.

[Alasdair AllanParticipant @alasdairallan37423]

Thanks – think will go with Len’s soldering solution rather than make a new shaft, as the slip is rotational.

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