Motors/prop for model warship

[Malcolm FraryParticipant @malcolmfrary95515]

Rather than buy a combo that you might not be able to get extra receivers for, something like a HK-T4A V2 is not much more, but you can get extra receivers at modest cost.

In the days of AM/FM radios, all that was needed to ensure compatibility between transmitters and receivers in the same band was the correct crystals. Different makers ensure that you stick with their range by making sure that only their receivers will bind with their transmitters.

Again in the old days, when you bought a transmitter, you got all that you needed apart from batteries, today you get a transmitter, a bound receiver and the box they came in. Battery and ESC are needed.  Servos are fairly universal, but some might need a bit of trimming of the plug body to fit the hole in the receiver case. Not usually a problem, because most modellers have a knife somewhere. Care needs to be taken plugging in a trimmed lead – black/brown needs to be on the pin nearest the receiver circuit board. From experience, it also needs to be on its row of pins, rather than between two.

Although a shallow, long, narrow hull can be tender, the main problem with warships is the low freeboard.  A short tubby boat will ride over waves.  Or try to.  A long, low hull might well be longer that the wave spacing, so water will go over the decks when waves are higher than the freeboard.  Good edge sealing is important to allow draining to the outside, rather than the inside, of the boat.  Since there is no 100% certain way of totally keeping water out of this type of hull, sealing all of the surfaces inside and out is needed.

Edited By Malcolm Frary on 15/03/2021 09:41:40

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