Motor size/ set up

[Andy Hustler 1Participant @andyhustler1]

I'm about to startbug looking at the building the Itsleria 1/35 scale LCVP but looking at the engine bay it's like z matchbox so any help would be most welcome and also would I be able to make the ramp go up and down or should I just stick with the basics??.

Many thanks

Andy from Cardiff

[Andy Hustler 1Participant @andyhustler1]

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

I think there was an article on this a while ago? I seem to remember he first boat I had mentioned in the mag (as a readers letter) was the first lander I made (ooo perhaps it was 15 years ago….) and in the same issue or the one before there was a 1/35 kit lander. Perhaps it was a trumpeter one? I will look it up.

A 385 motor is the thing to use…but what space do you have.?

I dare say the ramp could be made to go up and down with a bit of thought, but of course it would need a rotary servo to be put some where or other.

Ashley

[Richard SimpsonModerator @richardsimpson88330]

As regards the working door, it all depends on your own level of experience, expertise and confidence. I would be very carefull about not taking on too much and becoming disillusioned when things get challenging. Another very common challenge with converting a plastic kit to RC use is weight, even with those kits supposedly made for the task. The plastic is invariably quite heavy for the scale so you have to be very careful when it comes to adding additional weight with extra electronics and motors etc.

Do some very careful ballasting trials to start with to try to determine how much weight you have to play with.

I once converted a Revell 1/72nd U-Boat kit to surface running RC. Luckily with that kit there is a good reserve of ballast but I still paid a lot of attention to the weight of the components. From what I can remember I think it required just over a kilogram to get it to sit at it's waterline. For that model I simply used two servo motors, which were only 16mm diameter and weighed very little and propelled the model at a good scale speed.

Edited By Richard Simpson on 05/10/2021 09:02:16

[Malcolm FraryParticipant @malcolmfrary95515]

For working a ramp, something like

Mini 360 Degree Continuous Rotation Servo FS90R

or

https://www.digikey.co.uk/en/products/detail/adafruit-industries-llc/2941/5823442?utm_adgroup=Motors%20-%20AC%2C%20DC&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping_Product_Motors%2C%20Solenoids%2C%20Driver%20Boards%2FModules&utm_term=&productid=5823442&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIyryH9-Wy8wIV4-jtCh18LARvEAQYASABEgKr7fD_BwE

might do.

The first is a servo with continuous rotation, the second a motor and gearbox requiring an ESC or switcher. Neither is proportional, you just turn it off when the ramp has got there. From posts about similar projects elsewhere, the ramp needs some extra weight to ensure that it will drop.

If it is the foot long one like the Italeri one, a 385 might be overkill. A 140/1 as sold by Component Shop might be more appropriate, and much easier to hide.

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Malcolm you are so right…a 140 is a better choice AS I didn’t twig the lcvp bit, rather than assume LCT.

I am beating myself with birch twigs now.

I can see the attraction of motorising these things but when all is said and done they are fairly limited with regards any sort of weather and so on.

Ashley

[Tim CooperParticipant @timcooper90034]

I have converted the Italieri Landing Craft.

I used two ex cassette tape player motors initially with 20 mm plastic props. But it was very underpowered given the barn door shaped bow. I changed the motors to 2 x 140's for more power. I bought a Sherman Tank kit for the load bay, this is used as the battery box.

To raise and lower the ramp door I used a small geared motor to turn 2 connected pulleys and strong thread to the door.

Tim

[Andy Hustler 1Participant @andyhustler1]

Many thanks Tim I will pop round local shop this week

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