Model Slipway Trent

[Mark LeighParticipant @markleigh72576]

Hi Lads

I’m new to the forum and hope i might get some help here.

Apologies to all that might have seen this posted in the wrong forum. Hopefully i’ll get some response here. 

I’m currently (the past two years) building a Model Slipway Trent.

I am attempting a lift off roof structure so the interior detail can be appreciated better.

I’m struggling with the alignment of the sides.

My first problem is the bottom edge of the superstructure sides. They don’t marry up to the deck. Filling the bottom as described in the "manual" is ok but if there is a big diffference then that will make the top out and lead to more headaches latter on.

The second is the dishing on the sides of the superstructure with only the front window structure, the rear bulkhead to brace the sides apart. It tends to bow outward at the bottom edge. I have added a false roof at the top of the superstructure sides. I thought i’d cured this by adding frame falsework between the side and the interior pan it has improved this but there is still dishing between the false roof and the bottom of the windows.

Any suggestions or help would be appreciated.

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Hi Mark

Don’t build it with a removable roof as you are opening a whole world of problems, I have seen these models built with removable roofs but most of them were static models I have only seen one that was built in such a way and used on the water. I freely admit that the builder is a better man than me.

Paul

[Mark LeighParticipant @markleigh72576]

Hi Paul

Thanks for your reply and advice I’ll take it on board.

The removable roof section was planned in the design stage to allow uninterrupted views of the painstaking detail in the cabin as per my visits to the real one. Also to allow for changing the bulb in the spotlight on the radio-stack. Having already assembled the 1st stage of the false roof it has had the added effect of strengthening the superstructure stopping it from twisting. My plan was to have this removable roof section firmly secured whilst on the water and only removed for servicing in "dry docks". Of course the integrity of the model is paramount and if i need to give this up as a bad judgement call i will. 

Have seen your sterling work of your Trent. Looks amazing on the water. Hope to have some of my photos up and running soon.

As you have clearly built one of these did you experience the problems i am having with the dishing/bowing of the superstructure sides. If so how did you overcome it. Whilst the addition of the frame false work between the side and interior pan has improved the situation its not completely eliminated it. Or am i just being too demanding of this model?

Regards Mark 

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Hi Mark

I built the cabin around a ply jig to eliminate the bowing / dishing problem.

I have sent you a pm explaining this.

Don’t give up

Paul

[Mark LeighParticipant @markleigh72576]

    Little chance of that paul. Too much hard work and countless money has gone into this project to give up  Besides can’t wait for the day it finally goes to the water . All the problems i’ve faced so far i’ve overcome and it’s all useful lessons for the next project.

Cheers

[Jason PerryParticipant @jasonperry74438]

im having problums with the deck on my trent but thats about it so far

[Mark LeighParticipant @markleigh72576]

 Hi Jason,

        I understand that your having problems with your deck, though you haven’t stated which Trent your building. If its the Model Slipway 1/16th version, i too had problems. Mine didnot fit the shape of the hull in shape or form and i had to make annother one. Having completed that part of the model and if i were to  venture into building another i would improve the deck by adding additional bracing/formers. In particular increasing the thickness of the joining surfaces on the inner edge of the lower deck. additional formers on the upper deck paying particular attention to the hatches in the deck. Mind you the later would depend whether the hatch was to be made flush fitting as per some of the later versions. All told when the deck is complete there is still alarge degree of flexing which leads to the deck coming away from its fixings.

      Good luck

  Mark

[Jason PerryParticipant @jasonperry74438]

i have the slipway trent also. The problems im having at the moment is to do with the hatch opening in the center of ther hull (parts d24-d25 and d26-d27 are to long to go inbetween the front and rear deck supports

these have been measured to 188 mm for the front and  202 mm for the rear, to make sure i havent really messed up i put the front deck section on and rear deck, and it’s way off, it stats to trim  the parts listed above but i would need to take about 1/2 inch off that doesn’t seem to be right to me  

i know that this will be an importent part of the build as the super structure will sit on this  

anyone got any good pics  ????? 

hope you can help jason 

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

[Mark LeighParticipant @markleigh72576]

 Hi Jason,

                 I’ve just looked at the build manual for this part of the boat. I can’t remember cutting off that ammount – probably because i cut a new deck out anyway. The manual clearly states 188mm and 202mm to the centre of each frame, which mine are. Note though the 202mm is not measured from the centre line.

                  As part 28 glues directly to the aft frame with parts 25,27 and 24,26 attaching to this and finally part P312 sitting accross the centreline of the forward frame spanning part 24, 25 you can be assured that the resulting hole in the middle will be correct.

                 Parts 73, 74 glue onto parts 25,27and 24,26 and form the shape of the deck.

                 Because the forward deck slopes front to rear and inboard to outboard this will clearly mean the deck is oversized. I do remember the aft deck being 4-5mm too big, i think to allow for slight deviations in step positions.

                 I think i came to the conclusion that as long as the two measurements were correct it would stand to reason that the superstructure would sit over it ok. Having completed that section and now on the superstructure build i have not encountered any other problems with parts 25,27 and 24,26.

                  This is one of many instructions you will question on this kit build.

                   i hope that this goes some way to helping you with your problem. Happy building

          Mark

[Mark LeighParticipant @markleigh72576]

Whoops thought i could delete them from my gallery without affecting the post but obviously not!

Mark

[Vinnie BraniganParticipant @vinniebranigan92297]

Nope.     The images in post are linked to the galery images….so delete the gallery image and it has nothing to link to.

Vinnie

[Jason PerryParticipant @jasonperry74438]

mark

all is well it did turn out i had to trim about 3mm off and that’s it the deck fits like a glove a glove with one finger  lol its all cut to size now not going to glue the rear deck on as am saving me Penney’s up for the futaba 6exp so will need a little room to fit the gear in the back

but i hope to start on the supper structure soon 

thanks for the help 

all best Jason

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Jason

A  small word of caution…at this point you should check the whole model for square & level to check that everything is sitting just right and that you haven’t introduced a twist into the build.

Paul

[Mark LeighParticipant @markleigh72576]

         Paul,

        As always your model looks spetacular both on and off the water.

         Mark

[Mark LeighParticipant @markleigh72576]

 

         Vinnie

        Thanks for that tip, save me from looking a fool next time

         Mark

[Mark LeighParticipant @markleigh72576]

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