Lead Zinc boat parts Clean up, and Type of Glue to attach them

[bruce dixonParticipant @brucedixon30601]

Lead Zinc boat parts Clean up, and Type of Glue to attach them
What is everyone process to clean up these Lead Zinc parts prior to painting?
What glue are you using to attach them?
I have notice CA glues and epoxies don’t last long. they are too brittle and get knocked off easy when transporting in and out of cars.
Thank you

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

I am assuming that by ‘lead/zinc you mean what is generally referred to as ‘White Metal’ as in included in many kits

I would agree that CA glues can go brittle, particularly the cheaper types, but there are some versions which are slightly flexible and can offer a more resilient bond.

A good quality epoxy should not give any problems providing the surface to the which the fitting is stuck to gives a good bond. Just sticking to a painted surface isn’t sufficient as I’m sure you are aware.

My practice is wherever possible to add a mechanical support in the form of a ‘peg’ to secure the fitting in addition to the adhesive. White metal is soft so you can easily drill a small hole into the bottom of the fitting and glue in a short piece of brass rod which fits into a corresponding hole in the surface of he model. Then glue the fitting in place with good quality epoxy. It is unlikely to come off after that.

As far as cleaning up the fitting is concerned, flash can be removed with a sharp knife and then an abrasive, either a file or abrasive paper. It is usually best to use a primer before painting the fitting.

Colin

 

[Richard SimpsonModerator @richardsimpson88330]

I agree with everything Colin says but would just add another comment.  With one kit I built, which included a large number of white metal fittings, I would always make a decision as regards whether it would be best to use the supplied white metal part, with all the associated cleaning up and concerns as regards lack of strength, or whether a scratch built part might actually be less work and look better.

As an example the kit included cast white metal ladders.  They were actually quite heavy and would have required a lot of work to dress them up to an acceptable standard.

I decided it would be easier to scratch build my own from stripwood.  This proved to be significantly less work and gave a better result.

Another example was a vertical ladder, which was broken so I had to make something from scratch anyway but the result was much better and far easier than dressing up.

I never use white metal handrail stanchions as they are so weak.  I always replace them with brass stanchions and brass rails between them for a much stronger and neater finish.

Next the life belts were also cast white metal and I decided that they would take a lot of work to clean up to a suitable standard.  Again less work and a better looking result was obtained by scratch building.

Finally I really didn’t like the oars supplied for the lifeboat and the dinghy as they were going to need a lot of cleaning up and they were so weak they bend out of shape very easily.  They were replaced with meat skewers and stripwood and the leather cuffs were made from brown heat shrink.

Just some things to consider when dealing with white metal fittings.

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

White metal fittings can vary a great deal in quality, ladders are difficult to cast as Richard’s examples show. Also moulds wear out and manufacturers sometimes don’t renew them from the master when they should.

Colin

[bruce dixonParticipant @brucedixon30601]

Thank you guys I’m doing pretty much the same as you. But I use Styrene in stead  and don’t have to do tesanding and sealing required for balsa wood. I use E6000 to atach the styrene to fiber glass  and also find canopy glue works well but takes longer to dry. thanks for the input very helpful

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