JIF 65

[carl brothertonParticipant @carlbrotherton75833]

I have received the servo now, the drum arrangement is a little different as to what I expected.

The first thing is the shroud. The second is the two slots, diametrically opposite, where I expected that the line would exist tangentially to the drum. Whereas the slots indicate that the cord will effectively, run to the slot then turn through an angle, rubbing against a sharp edge.

I do realise I have got something wrong.

Who can help?

[Malcolm FraryParticipant @malcolmfrary95515]

The shroud is plastic. You are a modeller. You possess a drill. You can arrange your hole or holes anywhere that you want them. Plug it in and try it with your radio – observe which way it rotates for "in" and "out"

The friction rubbing the line against the plastic is not a real worry. A smooth line will go round the corner easily – a rough line will reshape the hole to its own satisfaction. I prefer my line to go straight to a fairlead after leaving the shroud – the tension line above deck should ensure that the line pulls out in light airs, but it is a good idea to avoid any possible chance of stray slack line below the deck. It has a distressing habit of finding anything it shouldn't and self tying a knot. If that knot happens to be around the power switch, it is annoying. The line just needs to be thick enough so that there is room on the drum to hold the appropriate number of turns comfortably – too thin a line "might" try to escape between shroud and drum.

The shroud is very good at preventing a slack line from hopping off the drum and doing evil. However, a very light, flexible line, in light air conditions, is effectively being pushed at the hole. It can try to form a "tidy tangle" inside the shroud. A gust of wind will usually pull this out, or it might need a bit of experimental winding in and out to lose the tangle.

In practice, I haven't needed to use the screws provided to hold the shroud in place. The drum and its fixing screw does that job admirably. The locating stubs just make it face the "right" way when mounted to the top of the winch body, but other than providing nuisance value for later on, can be ignored.

Modellers tend to like complications – manufacturers are happy to oblige them, but sometimes you can bypass complications that are simply not needed. Just a question of spotting them.

[carl brothertonParticipant @carlbrotherton75833]

Just found that Model Boat Emails have started going to spam.

I had suspected that the shroud was typically modified for personal needs or prejudices.

Thanks for the feed back.

[carl brothertonParticipant @carlbrotherton75833]

The long period of little obvious progress is yet another reflection with respect to boat building experience.

I have relied heavily on both the Jif Plan and the DragonForce model. In the case of the JIF, it shows a arm as the sail chord controller. Which I was not attracted to due to the longish slot required, plus the arm swept a good part of the hatch area. In case of the DF the hatch is 25mm longer, with both the Rx and battery being accommodated.

I spent quite a bit of time squeezing my JIF arrangement (having omitted the second aperture on the JIF drawing) into the space available, in plan. Another issue is that the JIf is shallower, although beamier than the DF. This caused an issue of obtaining an acceptable height for the winch drum, for the Sail Servo.

Any way hear it is, as it stands.

I checked the movement of the rudder servo using a servo tester.

I will no at long last move towards the both the sail/mast installation and the deck rigging.

I cannot but notice that my progress is a little behind a racing Tortoise

[carl brothertonParticipant @carlbrotherton75833]

Although it seems trivial< I cannot decide if it is better to screw the screw eyes right in , as far as the circular part. Or to leave a little of the shank showing once the thread is into the wood.

The issue seems to be with it stuck out above the deck the bending moment is slightly higher. Screwed right in, more force is required to get it to the deck surface. A pilot hole has been drilled.

What is the experience at the functional level?

[Malcolm FraryParticipant @malcolmfrary95515]

Assuming that the wood that they are screwed into can stand the forces, if the maths are done diligently, the difference will be a miniscule, going on totally insignificant, fraction of the total. Just go for what you find pleasing to the eye.

A side stay will be trying to pull the eye out by its roots, and will exert very little sideways force. The main force will be between the threads and the wood that they are sitting in.

If being used as turning points for running rigging, 2mm or so of brass will be more than adequate for whatever your sail rig can offer. If they are brass plated steel (stronger), a rethink may be required if salt water is ever involved -steel + salt = rust, think "any BL car". The plating doesn't last outdoors.

Servo testers. Unless one of the fancier types that tells you actual pulse lengths on a screen is used, the rotating knob just lets you swing the servo as far as either the servo can go, or as far as the tester can go, whichever end point comes first. The cheap basic types like mine are good for basic checks without involving a radio, but come without any calibration.

[carl brothertonParticipant @carlbrotherton75833]

Hi! Malcolm, I did not think that there would be any discernable difference.

Yet at the back of my mind is the thought that practical experience could high light issues or effect i never thought of.

Progress is now very slow as my lack of experience and knowledge, raises ever more doubts. Plus just making Bossies if that is what the tensioners are called, has taken my ages, even then they are not the quality I would like ideally.

|I will finish putting the eyelets in for the shrouds, whilst refreshing my memory of what is on line for "JIF65 Rigging". Without the internet everything would be harder still. It is noticeable that scale sailing boats like complex arrangements, whereas the racing/functional pond yachts like to keep things simple and reliable , so it seems.

[carl brothertonParticipant @carlbrotherton75833]

At long last I believe I have reached a point where I can start going forward, rather than treading water ( I am getting into the nautical feel, now).

The first thing which i will do in parallel with planning, ordering some parts, is a tidying up and a cleaning operation.

I am certain I need a Boom yang, a return pulley for the winch, a piece of elastic (although it seems strange to have to order such a thing), some Carbon Fibre (for the mast, and sails.

[Malcolm FraryParticipant @malcolmfrary95515]

When designing a small Bowsie, you find that you need several holes in a small piece of fairly strong plastic with preferably no corners. When finished, the immediate thought is "This looks like a shirt button." Most shirt buttons are two hole, but there is room for another. Whenever a shirt gets beyond further use, it presents a collection of potential bowsies.

When you have gone through enough servos, you wind up with a stock of spare servo horns. The arms of these are usually strong plastic, with a row of conveniently sized holes.

The boom vang just needs to be a line with a bowsie to adjust to taste, unless you really want to create a further maintenance task by introducing adjustable metalwork to expose to a salty environment.

The elastic is a necessary evil to ensure that the line at the drum is never allowed any slack, when it will fall off and tie itself round the underside of the drum (if an open type) or allow itself to push into a lump inside the shroud. A visit to a haberdasherer will find "Shirring Elastic". Various weights, not everlasting, but 75 metres lasts a long time. As do a packet of fairly light elastic bands from most stationery shops. Oddly, thinner elastic bands have a better stretch ratio which is good for operation. Their relatively short life is made up for by the fact that a 30" boat uses 4 or 5, and a pack of 100 cost £1.

Good pulleys look nice, but anything with a bit of a radius does a very adequate job of turning a line. There is probably some rule of thumb giving the minimum diameter of the turning point, probably something like "at least three times the line diameter". My Victoria originals were a plastic "bead" in the stern panel, but when much use had caused the line to saw its way in, converting the hole into a slot, I replaced the bead with a stainless self tapper with a cover to stop the line hopping off when slack.

[carl brothertonParticipant @carlbrotherton75833]

It is just over a year ago since I last posted anything about the boat. There was a reason, I was daunted with respect to rigging the boat. Particularly as I did not understand the drawing that i had, with respect to the rigging, and had doubts about my abilities and access to materials to make many of the fittings detailed.

In the end I decided to follow the arrangements that my dragonForce 65 has. The first issue was could I get hold of the bits and pieces that I could not make that the DragonForce uses? Luckily I came across "RC Yachts", which has a comprehensive range of items at reasonable, affordable prices. In the event the company has treated me well . deserving my thanks.

 

Picture could do with rotating If I knew how.

The model is now rigged pretty much identically as the DragonForce. There are two servos in place, a drum winch servo and a rudder servo. I have a 2s Lipo in place. I now need a Rx, I was hoping to find a low channel and small Rx, at a reasonably price. I use Futaba Fasst compatible), To date all I have found are similar to my model aircraft types and I note prices have increased considerably.

With a Rx I can fine tune the movements and tensions etc.

Another issue is that my apparently exists, although there are no contact details, nor times of operation (Fairhaven). I am sur that the Fleetwood club operates, although that is a tedious hour away, although only abotut10 miles from here.

Edited By carl brotherton on 09/09/2022 12:19:55

[Tim RoweParticipant @timrowe83142]

Well done Carl

Great job and some good looking aircraft in the background. On the water soon hopefully.

Tim R

[carl brothertonParticipant @carlbrotherton75833]

I need to find a local group to sail with. Because I need educating on both the principals and implementation of how to sail, plus I like being with others.

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