Dragonforce 65 Ordered

[Steven S. 1Participant @stevens-1]

Your boat's looking good Chris, mine hasn't been in the water yet.

[Eddie LancasterParticipant @eddielancaster]

Yes, looks good Chris, moving nicely with very little wind, I know what you mean about trying to sail and photograph a fast moving boat.

My boat is in irons at the Northampton postal depot, I suppose until Tuesday.

At the recommendation of the people I met last Thursday I have ordered the Soch sails A+ set as well as the standard A set,

Eddie.

[Tim RoweParticipant @timrowe83142]

Hi Chris

What a great way to get on the water. I spend too much time building and living right next to the harbour I should make more use of it.

Atmospheric photo ghosting along.

Tim R

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Absolutely Tim. If I hadn't bought some RTR and ARTR boats I'd still not be on the water!

Well, not strictly true as I've got one of Dave's Huntresses and I did have a big Huntsman 31 which wouldn't have needed much to get it on the water. At least I don't have to rush (ha, ha!) my builds though I'm itching to try those out.

Steven – thanks, do you have suitable water nearby?

Eddie – that's frustrating. Mind you weather's due to take a turn for the worse for the next few days. Lovely here in Warwick, wish I'd gone down the club today as it was pretty cold yesterday.

Photo taken on a previous visit with the HydroPro and B rig when there was some wind in the middle of the lake!

Chris

Edited By Chris Fellows on 02/05/2021 11:27:22

[carl brothertonParticipant @carlbrotherton75833]

Steven, thanks for the input.

I have at long last threaded the Bowie so as to maintain the back stay tension. I think it is set as you indicated.

I am surprised how lippy, low friction the Deena thread is.

I have now started on the Foresail Boom.

Non of the knotting is easy with my clumsy fingers, if significant amounts of the thread is to be avoided. I am now using what looks like a crochet needle and tweezers to make the knot, in conjunction with eight podgy fingers and equally big thumbs. Perhaps the most useful discovery is that i now wick the area of the chord to be cut with cyno, then cut the end at something like a 45 degrree.angle. This aids threading, particularly the Bowsies.

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Being a wet Bank Holiday I've fitted the numbers. I'm always apprehensive doing this. I say always, but this is only the second time, which is probably why I'm apprehensive!

To ensure that the numbers are correctly spaced and upright to each other (particularly the eight) I first taped them together so that they could be positioned as one. Once I'd decided where to position them on the sails I used some lining tape on the back of the sails (as it comes off easily) to mark the position of the bottom of the numbers and then applied them by pulling off a little of the backing of each number at the bottom and progressively pulling off the rest as I smoothed the numbers down. To save having to remove the sails from the hull I used some thick books to support the sails and keep them flat.

Top tip. Buy some additional numbers as I did! One of the 2s didn't release cleanly from the backing and puckered up and had to be replaced.

Chris

 

Edited By Chris Fellows on 03/05/2021 13:11:35

[Steven S. 1Participant @stevens-1]

Chris – yes we have a couple of ponds we use, although only one is suitable for sailing and it is closed to us right now because of Covid restrictions. Actually both are off limits right now.

I also put my numbers onto my sails, although I cut stencils and painted them on. After I assembled them onto the boat I noticed that my starboard mainsail number was too far back and I won't be able to add a "1" in front if necessary at an event. You may have the same problem on your jib.

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Hi Steven

My number shouldn't be a problem at our club races as I've used my membership number. I haven't seen any guidance on what number to use, it just made sense. If I raced anywhere else I'd probably have to register and be issued with a number.

When starting to re-rig the HydroPro I noticed a small crack on the outside of each recess for the deck eyes taking the cords for the bridle. Can't remember if they were there when I bought it. Anyway I've filled the recesses with epoxy.

Chris

[Steven S. 1Participant @stevens-1]

A bit of a coincidence, I used my membership number also. Six or seven of us bought DF65's this winter to learn to sail and do some friendly racing so we won't be taking the numbering too seriously.

This is what I found on sail numbers:

Edited By Steven S. on 03/05/2021 22:30:33

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Thanks for posting that.

I did wonder if there were regulations for positioning of the numbers. I've positioned mine where I thought they looked best!

I doubt that I will be doing other than club racing anyway. I've got Fairey builds to be getting on with!

Chris

[Eddie LancasterParticipant @eddielancaster]

I have registered my boat with the DF Racing UK Class Association and the letter that came with my number says “you should use the last two or three digits of the number, unless you have a personal number through the MYA” So do you pay your money and take your choice?

I thought somewhere it said it only takes a couple of hours to get it ready for the water, but after eight hours of total build time I now have a boat ready to sail. So Wicksteed Park tomorrow morning for a practice sail and then over to Emberton Park for my first race????

Eddie.

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Hi Eddie

Yes, it says on the RC Yachts web-site that it takes at least a couple of hours. It took me a lot longer than that as well, but I do like to take my time and I spread it over a couple of days whilst doing other things.

Let us know how you get on with your first race.

Nearly finished re-rigging the HydroPro and will be able to fine tune it now with the new and correctly tied bowsies. Those pre-fitted to the bridle were tied correctly (though I've replaced anyway) but the drawing in the instructions is incorrect and I guess drawn by someone who had never tied one! See photo.

I shall pop down the club again later in the week to give them another run and then wait for the racing season to start.

Chris

[Eddie LancasterParticipant @eddielancaster]

Yes totally wrong, I do like the Joysway bowsies but they do have to be threaded the right way round.

Eddie.

[Steven S. 1Participant @stevens-1]

Yes the DF65 is my first ever sailboat and I was able to use the Joysway bowsies correctly. The design with the little trench between two holes and the pocket at the third hole for the knot made it very easy to follow the instructions for rigging them. Even my fat fingers were eventually able to do the job. I used the Dyneema thread supplied with the kit and I don't see any tendency for the lines to slip.

[carl brothertonParticipant @carlbrotherton75833]

Yet again I am encountering, or anticipating difficulties.

I am at present rigging the Jib. As listed in the "Rigging the Jib" section.

I have reached item 11, cut a 700mm length of Dyneema thread. Attach to the "Fore Stay fitting", se fig. 11. This I have done.

It is what comes next that is causing me some consternation. Primarily as I do not know the "WHY", I fear that something is not understood by me, or what I am trying to achieve. There is a very long piece of Dyneema thread emerging from the Boom. Figure 12 seems to indicate that this piece of thread is pretty short and goes through a ring and Bowsie.

Can I be reassured that all is well, if I only do this or follow the instructions in an appropriate section.

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Carl,

I think you'll find the ring is attached to a line down from where the forestay attaches to the mast, this allows you to raise the jib boom for sail shape.

This is only if it's the same as the Dragon Flite, I sold my Dragon Force !!

Regards Ray

[Steven S. 1Participant @stevens-1]

I found that they seemed to be very generous with the Dyneema thread. Just follow Instruction 12 and picture 12 on page 9 of the assembly manual and your rigging should be done. The ring [in picture 12} ended up being about six inches above the deck on my boat.

[carl brothertonParticipant @carlbrotherton75833]

My thoughts are also moving to fitting a RC system. My initial thoughts are to use an old 2.4 Futaba system that I currently use on a Flight Simulator.(i have an old 35 Tx that could replace it.

My thoughts were that the aileron stick which would be used for the rudder, as it is sprung to centre. I have assumed that this is the normal condition for the boats rudder, that is central.

I have been less certain about the sail winch. I can only think to use the throttle channel for the sail winch, as this does not centralise, although the sense of movement seems out by 90 degrees. I have wondered if the rudder channel on a model plane is usually used some how removing the sprung centralising arrangement?

My last thoughts were to use a 2s Lipo. At present I am not certain if I need UBEC in line, dependant if the Rx and Servos can handle 8.4v (at initial charge)? Again what do people do?

[Steven S. 1Participant @stevens-1]

The accepted norm is to use the Aileron stick for rudder and the Throttle stick for the Sail Winch. Try it, you may like it. Also, from the research I have done they seem to recommend a LiFe battery pack for the servos as a 2 cell LiPo pack is too high a voltage. I bought the one offered by Joysway with my DF65 kit. You also need a 6" extension lead if you want to place it in the alternate location by the mast.

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

As Steven says a 2s LiPo is too high a voltage. Use either the supplied battery holder with 4 AA batteries (can be rechargeable) or the rechargeable battery pack that Steven shows. The only radio installation is the receiver and connecting the rudder, winch and battery cables to it and then binding it with the transmitter.

Don't worry too much at this stage if you can't achieve the winch line travel of 115mm. Adjust so that the jib and main booms are positioned as shown in the instructions for when sheeted in. If your Tx has end point adjustment (EPA) for the channel operating the winch you can adjust the sheeted out position later.

Another visit to the club this morning to try out the HydroPro after re-rigging and took the DF as well. Stronger winds this time so was useful. Very pleasant couple of hours once the rain clouds had passed.

Chris

Edited By Chris Fellows on 06/05/2021 16:17:49

[carl brothertonParticipant @carlbrotherton75833]

Steven

Approximately how high is the ring above the deck. At 700mm the ring is not far from the deck. It does seem they have been generous.

The earlier lengths stipulated seemed to be much less than generous. Particularly when tying (double) knots with my pudgy old fingers.

[Steven S. 1Participant @stevens-1]

Carl – On my boat the ring ended up about 145mm above the deck, but I don't think it matters much. I think it could be anywhere from 70 to 600mm above the deck and still do the job.

[Eddie LancasterParticipant @eddielancaster]

Had my boat on the water for the first time today. In the morning at Wicksteed Park, there was no wind to speak of and I didn't take a photo, sailed at my new club at Emberton Park in the afternoon, a lot more wind with some very strong gusts that took everyone by suprise.

Mine is the centre boat.

A lot more water and boats to what I am used to.

I am using a 5 cell AAA NIMH 750 mah battery and the two sailing sessions today totalled 5 hours and used 450 mah, I did recharge the battery betweeen sailings.

Eddie

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Carl – yes, as said, it doesn't really matter where the ring is positioned as long as you have sufficient run to adjust the bowsie. My other boat doesn't have a ring and the cord is taken directly from the end of the jib boom to the mast eye. I like the idea though and am going to fit a ring.

Eddie – looks like a nice lake. Racing, even if just for fun, adds a whole new element to sailing. I can't wait to get started again.

Chris

[carl brothertonParticipant @carlbrotherton75833]

I agree that in principal that an absolute figure is not important, yet a ball park figure is useful. The value that Steve has provided, was most useful, in terms of functionality it is spot on.

All of the dimensions provided in the build pamphlet have been achieved. although the end of the jib just kisses, brushes the mast. Does it matter?

I have only tied of the Dyneema ends using double, or reef knots. I had or have the intention to wick Cyno onto the knots. Is this a good or bad idea/practice.

My initial intention was to buy a cheap RC set (Tx+Rx) at about £20 from HK. For a number of reasons I have now purchased a Rx from T9, to use with an existing 2.4 set not in (good) use.

In relationship to the power supply for the Rx, a 2s Lipo provides a max of 8.4v, whereas the Rx is rated up to 10.6v, the issue then becomes the rating of the servos. I had intended to use a UBEC to provide a regulated supply that is well within the capabilities of the bits and pieces.

In the short term I will use Duracells in the supplied holder. However I find it hard to dispel the view in the aeromodeling and BMFA communities that these types of cell arrangements are unreliable, mainly due to contact arrangements. I am certainly undecided for the longer term arrangements.

In the case of aeromodelling it is normal practice to check the batteries (for voltage/% capacity) either after a flight or session, dependant on set up. Do model yacht modellers have a regime that is similar, particularly where it is desirable to maintain seal integrity?

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