Does anyone know of an engraver

[Mike Waterhouse 1Participant @mikewaterhouse1]

Good morning fellow sailors

I'm wondering if I can draw on your superior knowledge once again.

I'm looking for an engraver who can produce raised lettering for the name plates on my latest project.

I suspect that they will be individual letters rather than the whole thing on a back plate.

Once again many thanks in advance

Regardt to all

Mike.

[Mike Waterhouse 1Participant @mikewaterhouse1]

Raised letter engraving

[Keith LongParticipant @keithlong89920]

Hi Mike

I suggest you run a quick search on t'internet for "etched name plates". There are a LOT of people donig the sort you want (raised lettering on a sunken background), usually for model locomotives in all sizes from n gauge through to 71/2 inch gauge and bigger, they also do them for full size traction engines and locos. You can get them in brass or stainless steel – possibly other materials as well.

Diane Carney, who is assistant editor of Model Engineer does them so you should get a sympathetic ear there.

I haven't had any made for myself so I've no idea as to exactly who to recommend or what the prices are like – I'd be interested to know that as at some time in the future I'll be needing a plate about A4 in size etching to go on an old lathe I'm renovating. But a long time ago when I worked for a living I did get some parts etched in stainless steel for motor shaft encoders, and it was a heck of a lot cheaper to get them done that way in dozens than to get one or two done by hand in our workshops.

The advantage is – if you draw it – it can be etched so you've an enormous range of type faces and decorations to work with, as well as you being able to specify exactly what you want. You won't be limited to what stencils an engraver has in stock or can do freehand.

Keith

 

Edited By Keith Long on 09/09/2012 13:48:49

[Ian GardnerParticipant @iangardner62867]

Mike, It's not that difficult to etch your own plates if you can get hold of some ferric chloride. I have done them for locos and boats. Once you have made your brass plate you apply your lettering with Letraset or similar, line round the outside with enamel paint, paint the back and edges of the plate and immerse it in ferric chloride. Anything left exposed will be etched away. You might need to experiment with times but the longer it's in the more brass is eaten away. Paint and polish! Of course the normal warnings apply about handling chemicals.

As I say, the main problem will be getting the chemical I think. I was recently mugging up on photo-etching and there are clear chemicals you can get for etching- ferric chloride is a nasty brown and you can't see what's happening.

It would be worth searching for sites about photo etching but yes, there are companies who will do it for you. Below -one I made earlier!

Good luck…Ian

Edited By Ian Gardner on 09/09/2012 14:50:32

Edited By Ian Gardner on 09/09/2012 14:53:16

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Depending what the nameplate is used for, you could cut the letters out of card?

Bob

[Mike Waterhouse 1Participant @mikewaterhouse1]

Hi guys

Thanks for the info to date.

The type of letters I need are tapered from the top of the letter towards the bottom. I would imagine they would have to be cut using CNC and a suitabley shaped router bit.

I'm unsure what the material would be…probably some sort of plastic…each letter would be painted white before fixing to the back plate.

I like the idea of being able to etch my own brass plates but this boat doesn't call for that detail.

I might have to alter the idea and go for normal engraving with tapered sides to the letters, after all who will notice when the boat is 10ft from the bank.

Regards

Mike.

[Kimosubby ShipyardsParticipant @kimosubbyshipyards]

Ian and Mike,

not having etched, is the solution slightly acid too?

If so, the etch solution can be made as follows from readily purchased materials. A pet shop selling aquarium goods will have a product called "Phosban" or similar, to make up small satchets of ferric oxide for absorbing phophate from fish tank water.

A general builder supplies shop/hardware store will have "patio cleaner" (hydrochloric acid).

A few grammes of the "Phosban" ferric oxide added to water, stir to dissolve (brown solution) then add a couple mls of the acid, the solution now contains the active ingredients of a ferric chloride solution. Trial and error will get a solution strength to do the job. Fumes from hydrochloric acid are corrosive, do the mixing outside and be upwind.

Don't do this in or on the stainless steel kitchen sink! Mix in a jam jar standing in a plastic bowl. Wash away outside with copious quatities of water.

Let me know if it works Ian.

Kimosubby

[Ian GardnerParticipant @iangardner62867]

Kimo,

It could work- I really have no idea, but as I have a large jar of ferric chloride I won't be trying your idea I'm afraid- unless I discover ferric chloride has a shelf life! The plates in the photo were done about ten years ago. I've been meaning to do some for my Silver Mist but have been putting the job off.

The reason I was looking up photo-etching is that I have a Maycraft Mercury for restoration which originally had twenty four nickel silver window frames. I'd like to reproduce these but don't fancy cutting them out by hand- even if I knew how! Looking at photo etching methods, it seems a bit complicated-and it also just occurs to me I have hi-jacked your thread Mike- apologies.

Ian.

Edited By Ian Gardner on 10/09/2012 15:27:18

[Kimosubby ShipyardsParticipant @kimosubbyshipyards]

Mike

see pm regarding the Manx Workshop for the Disabled and their engraving services etc.

Kimo.

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