Clyde Puffer Glenaray

[Alasdair AllanParticipant @alasdairallan37423]

[Alasdair AllanParticipant @alasdairallan37423]

priming of hull underway and now thinking about painting

[Alasdair AllanParticipant @alasdairallan37423]

[Alasdair AllanParticipant @alasdairallan37423]

After some thought I am going to give the lower hull a red oxide colour, which aproximates red lead, though I know this would probably have faded to a lighter colour with time.

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

Halfords Red Oxide Primer is ideal as a colour but I usually protect it with matt varnish or lacquer.

Coln

[Richard SimpsonParticipant @richardsimpson88330]

I’m with Colin, Halfords Red Oxide Primer.

In fact I’ve done a number of navy hulls with Halfords Red Oxide below the water line, Halfords Grey Primer above the water line and Halfords Black Primer for the boot topping. (Water line).  Easy and convenient to apply and a very resilient finish.  I don’t bother with a varnish.

[Alasdair AllanParticipant @alasdairallan37423]

thanks for help!

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

I was told that the Halford primers are not waterproof but, to be honest, I have seen no actual evidence of that and they seem to be abrasive resistant. I have used varnish/lacquer on the ‘belt and braces’ principle.

The grey and red primers are excellent, the plastic versions were even better for models but don’t seem to be listed now. The original white primer was not so good but the white plastic primer much better. It is a bit confusing but it looks like Halfords have now consolidated their primers to one version of each.

The original primers were intended for metal and the plastic primers for spraying car bumpers as they were more flexible. I am assuming that the latest versions are OK for both applications.

Colourwise the red primer is great for representing underwater anti fouling paint. A coat of lacquer can darken it slightly if you prefer. The grey primer is very good for naval vessels and it also  provides a neutral base if you are overcoating with other colours as it doesn’t show through the top coat.

Colin

 

[Alasdair AllanParticipant @alasdairallan37423]

thanks for this Colin. Thinking a couple of steps ahead here to weathering. Does weathering (rust and salt streaks using enamel washes) mean I need to varnish with gloss before applying these? I have read that this makes doing streaking more effective, but it seems like an added layer of complication, given that the eventual varnishing will be matt?

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

I think you need Richard’s advice on that Alasdair, he is the weathering expert. I like my models to look like they have just emerged from the builder’s yard! It’s just a personal choice. Richard’s weathering is superb.

Colin

[Richard SimpsonParticipant @richardsimpson88330]

Big question again Alasdair!  While there are some who use varnishes to add another layer of protection to a paint finish there are also potential uses in weathering but that doesn’t mean to say you have to use them.  A couple of examples.

Adding a layer of varnish can be used to protect lower surfaces from the effects of subsequent procedures such as if you have to use a wash of a same type as a base coat.  They can also be used to seal in more delicate finishes such as pigments and water based paints.  Varnishes can also be useful for when you simply need to change the surface texture to make a particular technique that bit more effective.  Good examples are pigments take to matt surfaces significantly better than they do to gloss surfaces so a coat of a clear matt before adding pigments is sometimes useful.  On the other hand sometimes you want a wash to only pick out detail such as panel lines so this is much more easily achieved onto a gloss surface.  In that case a coat of clear gloss might be useful.

It is good to be aware of how surface texture can be used to make the weathering more useful but you don’t need to worry that you have to use varnishes as a matter of course.

On the Ben Ain hull I applied both oil paint rust streaks and pigments directly onto a matt enamel surface.  They worked fine but, the model was destined for a glass case so I didn’t worry about sealing them in with varnish.

A couple of downsides to consider.  One think that can help with weathering is to vary surface finishes to make differing techniques stand out.  i.e. satin paints with matt rust streaks.  Spraying over the whole thing with a clear coat blends everything into a single texture, which can spoil some effects.  Another consideration is that varnishes can enhance colours, especially matt paint and very much especially pigments.  So all the efforts in getting the application of pigments perfect goes a bit pear shaped when the colours darken with a coat of varnish.

I don’t use clear coats much.  When I do they are frequently to matt down a surface for the application of pigments.  I don’t often use them as a means of protecting.  When I did the 1/48th scale corvette weathering I did apply a protective coat because I knew it was going to be frequently sailed so the hull did need a bit more protection.

As a rule of thumb I find rust streaks are best achieved with oil paints, dabbed on then streaked down with a spirit dampened flat brush and salt streaks are easiest to do with a very light grey pigment.  Below hull fouling can be done with a very light dusting from a good distance of a dark green matt rattle can.

Whatever you do practise off the model first and do test pieces until you are fed up with it.

[Alasdair AllanParticipant @alasdairallan37423]

Thanks Richard – sound advice as ever! I will test this out on scrap material, but think its looking like i will do some light streaking straight onto the mat surface and then seal in with matt varnish as I intend to sail this model.

[Richard SimpsonParticipant @richardsimpson88330]

Sounds good Alasdair.  If you use pigments buy a very good quality brand.  The difference is that the more expensive brands are finer ground and so stick better to a surface as the finer grains get locked into the surface texture.  Cheaper brands do not hold onto the surface as well.  I use AK Interactive or MIG Ammo.  For oil paint I use Abteilung 502.

They are only suggestions, you will soon find your own preferences and stay with them.

[Alasdair AllanParticipant @alasdairallan37423]

apologies Richard – re the varnish related question I have just asked elsewhere on the site- think you have largely answered it here! Although still interested to know whether you think spray on varnish is enough to protect paintwork on a working model, or whether brush on varnish better for that job

[Alasdair AllanParticipant @alasdairallan37423]

[Alasdair AllanParticipant @alasdairallan37423]

While waiting for coats of paint to dry on the hull, I have kitted out the lifeboat for my puffer. Just a rolled up sail and a bailing can to add now!

[Alasdair AllanParticipant @alasdairallan37423]

[Alasdair AllanParticipant @alasdairallan37423]

Have painted the black upperworks and the steel areas of deck since this photo.  Now to test paints for compatability and do some light weathering ina few places, before varnishing.

[Alasdair Allan]

On Alasdair Allan Said:

apologies Richard – re the varnish related question I have just asked elsewhere on the site- think you have largely answered it here! Although still interested to know whether you think spray on varnish is enough to protect paintwork on a working model, or whether brush on varnish better for that job

I tend to use spray on varnish if I decide to varnish.  Mainly as it is a lot easier and more convenient.

[Alasdair AllanParticipant @alasdairallan37423]

[Alasdair AllanParticipant @alasdairallan37423]

Continuing with sporadic work on mt puffer.  Varnishing the hull now after a bit of light weathering.  Just a few rust streaks here and there rather than anything more full-on than that. After this, I will turn my attention to the foredeck and hatches.

 

[Alasdair AllanParticipant @alasdairallan37423]

[Alasdair AllanParticipant @alasdairallan37423]

The for’d half of my puffer is now showing a fair bit of detail.  A long way to go still with the after half!

 

[Alasdair AllanParticipant @alasdairallan37423]

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

Very impressive!

Colin

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