To figure out the required ESC you need to know what current your motor will take from your battery in reality rather than from a spec sheet which might have measurements taken in totally unrelated circumstances. Measure it under load, double the number, go for the next higher value ESC available, and that's your lad. Cautious derating like that ensures that the chosen ESC will survive boat use where they work harder for longer usually without the benefit of airflow cooling them. That, and avoiding ESCs with obviously extravagant claims regarding current handling.
The cost might be an upset, but performance costs, best to only spend it once.
Changing from 385s to 380s might take the single 15A ESC out of its comfort zone and eat into the safety margin. The increased performance will result in a higher current draw.