Posted by ashley needham on 20/03/2017 09:20:27:
Really this is just guesswork. Unless you find someone who has a boat the same and his/her setup produces the desired results you can only guesstimate what you might need.
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Ashley
It is hard to provide precise advice for a boat motor unless you have a matching model, because each hull is really an individual case. But brushless motors are a bit easier to deal with, since a brushless seems to be suitable for a much wider range of outputs than its nominal brushed equivalent.
Brushed motor design is severely limited by the commutator. Getting power through a sliding, switching contact is difficult, and keeping the cost down makes it more so. Brushgear is usually designed for a specific voltage, and exceeding that rapidly brings erosion and heating problems.
By contrast, the brushless motor will have a much wider working voltage range, and hence a much wider power output capability. They are heat-limited by the coil wire gauge and the magnet Curie Point – but it is much easier to cool the broad body of a brushless than the contact point of a brush. So you can buy quite a small brushless and get quite a lot of power out of it, just by upping the voltage. It would not be unusual to have the same brushless running at 7.2v, or 18v.
Of course, if you want the most out of a brushless you will have to arrange full cooling services! In practice, it is easier to overspec the motor and not worry about heat at all.
The BIG difference between boats is usually down to the propeller. I have seen startling differences in speed from just changing the prop. In an ideal world, we should keep a wide variety of props available to tune each boat to an optimum, but cost and availability mean that we are lucky if we can have two to compare…
Edited By Dodgy Geezer on 21/03/2017 13:45:33