Battery and wiring connectors

[Paul75Participant @paul75]

Hello Everyone.

I'm new to the world of model boating and have just bought a lovely, almost complete 1/128 Fleetscale model of HMS Duke of York (thanks Gerry!). She has 4 geared 540 motors (2 electronize ESCs) and runs off 6v batteries. I would like to overhaul the electrics in the boat to ensure a high degree of reliability and robustness.

Can someone please suggest the best types (manufacturers) of battery connectors, wiring and miscellaneous connectors (e.g. to the motors)? I've seen various types advertised (e.g. Deans) and would value your informed opinion. Generally, I would prefer to be able to disconnect the wiring, if required, rather than the liberal use of soldering.

Also, I intend to house the electical components in watertight plastic "lunch boxes" as a failsafe. Can anybody recommend any particular wiring grommet seals to maintain the watertight integrity of the box with wiring running out of it?

Many thanks,

Paul.

[Paul75Participant @paul75]

[Malcolm FraryParticipant @malcolmfrary95515]

Rather than sealing the box, a better idea is to assume that water will get in, so mount the gear spaced away from the base and have all of the wire entry holes in the base. That way, any water that does find a way in has a way out. If you want to grommet your hoes, you are stuch wit one wire per hole – there is no really satisfactory way of sealing around multiple wires without doing something more drastic. Multiple wires through just the one hole arranged so that its at the lowest point works well. Never killed a radio in a screw top pot in my 25 year old yacht, and it has had a couple of severe dunkings.

Another viable arrangement is drip sheets over the equipment. It works well in washing machines, and consider, if the hull has water up to the electrics, its the rest of the boat you need to be worrying about.

Its probably big enough for an automatic bilge pump if it does start taking water through the top.

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Paul. I have found that Deans battery connectors are more reliable than the usual ones, and to be honest I have had no trouble with ordinary wire connectors that you would get at Maplins.

HOWEVER, the 3 or 4mm gold plated types would be the ones to go for ultimately, any good shop/supplier will have them. These need to be soldered and then a little heat-shrink sleeve fitted, the ultimate in reliability.

Lunchboxes: For sarnies only (my opinion), and as per Malcolms post, arranging that the gear is off the bottom should be more than adequate. As he says. assume some will get in (there is always a dribble) and simply lift the gear a bit. If any more than a dribble gets in, there is something desperately wrong and the boat needs to be hoofed out the water, or indeed, not put in in the first place.

Ashley

[Paul75Participant @paul75]

Thanks for your replies. I'll install the ESCs and receiver kit well above the bottom of the hull. Hopefully I won't need a bilge pump!

Paul.

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

I don't like to disagree with Ashley but on this occasion I have to say that I like to use lunchboxes to contain my electronics.

As some of you know I tend to sail on the local canal and so I like to use the lunchboxes as an extra failsafe just incase my models get swamped by passing barges.

The sealed lunchboxes also serve as emergency floatation devices should such an incident occur.

Paul

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Paul. Nothing to disagree over here, or at least.. this is entirely personal preference, and there is no right or wrong in this matter.

If we were talking about offshore powerboat racing then the issue would be different, and lunch boxes are probably almost mandatory.

Ashley

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Having all the electronics in a nice neat and removable box does have another advantage as it gives you the option of pond side swapping of equipment between models.

The ability to share one speed controller between three boats does save some pennies.

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

Lunchboxes are for sandwiches. I'd challenge anyone to instal all the radio gear in a Graupner Parat inside a lunchbox – it's impossible. If your boat leaks that much, don't sail it.

DM

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Thank you Dave !! Ashley

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Cheeky Monkeys

My problem isn't leaky hulls.

My habit of sailing on the Bridgewater often brings my models into contact with barges, most owners slow down to reduce their bow wave but some just don't care and plough on regardless.

Even my larger size of models are at risk of being swamped by these waves especially if caught side on so I do try and take every waterproofing precaution.

Paul

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

"Share one speed controller between three models??? Shame on you, Paul! Have you no pity for us poor artisans? Must you shower all your riches on unworthy Tupperware salesmen? I shall have no alternative but to write to The Times………………
DM

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Extract from The Encyclopaedia Britannica.

Definition of a contradiction in terms: Poor artisans with centrally heated comfy workshops; nic see Bollinger Champaign

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

Is that Champaign as in Illinois, USA or Champagne as in France? I think we should be told.

(And it ain't centrally heated either, dude )

DM

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Beeping american spellchecher

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

Dictionary definition of spellchecher:
That which cheches spells. (Where would we be with uncheched spells?)
(Confucius say man in hole should throw away shovel.)

Paul Andrews
Check (chech?) out the Component Shop website for connectors – they have dozens of types. Personally I'd recommend the Deans type every time for currents of less than about 25A. Above that i.e. for ritual motor and battery abuse, go for the gold-plated bullet type. The Deans should do you fine with the spec you give. Don't forget a spare for your charging lead.
Dave M

[Paul75Participant @paul75]

Thanks everyone. I can see that the concensus is that Deans connectors are the way to go.

Paul.

[steve hParticipant @steveh76883]

Ive used a finger cut from a marigold glove , Iglue the open end into the radio box then snip off the other end , feed your wires through and put a good smeer of silicone greese into the finger and secure with a cable tie. works well on my race boat.

[Peter FitnessParticipant @peterfitness34857]

I have standardised all my connectors to Deans, and everything is wired in such a way that all motors, batteries and ESCs are interchangeable between any of my boats.

Personally, I have never found it necessary to enclose electronics in water proof containers and, so far, have not had any problems in 10 years of operation. That said, I don't sail on open water, as our club lake is only about 200 metres long, so conditions don't get too rough. The water is salt, but good waterproofing of the hull, plus an effective coaming around deck openings keeps water where it belongs – in the lake

Peter.

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