Another stupid question, for those who know

[carl brothertonParticipant @carlbrotherton75833]

I am building a small wooden model, mostly ply.

The inside will become virtually inaccessible when the deck goes on.

It seem logical to seal the internal spaces. I am thinking of using water based varnish, giving three or four coats or epoxy finishing resin.

I have an issue with is it possible to do the same with the internal, underside of the decking.

What I am really asking though, are my thoughts and intentions sensible or desirable? If so what should I be aware of, and so on?

[carl brothertonParticipant @carlbrotherton75833]

To seal or not to seal

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Some like to seal the insides of their boats, others don’t. There is no right or wrong.

Paint, varnish, resin…whatever, doesn’t matter much.

Ashley

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

My suggestion is……

Don`t glue the lid on

What about the radio gear?

Bob

[Tim CooperParticipant @timcooper90034]

Carl

Most of my boats have non wooden hulls so not so much of a problem, but I still leave the "top" off when I get back from sailing , just in case there is any water ingress.

On my wooden hulled boats I usually seal the inside I can get at once the deck is fitted and again air after sailing.

Tim

[Eddie LancasterParticipant @eddielancaster]

For what it’s worth, I seal all of my hulls with two coats of thinned epoxy , if it’s a balsa hull it will also have a layer of lightweight glass, the underside of the deck also gets two coats of resin, but then I use slow cure epoxy to fix the deck down, aliphatic glue or other wood glues will not stick to the resin, most of my builds at the moment are IOM yachts and the electronics and rudder are accessed through the various holes cut in the deck and then covered with sticky backed polyester patches.

Eddie.

[carl brothertonParticipant @carlbrotherton75833]

Eddie, your comments on hatches helps me understand, to some degree the plan i am working from. There is a good amount of detail with respect to creating a combing. Yet nothing about closing the apertures. Now I am starting to think about simple ways of closing, on a easy to seal and access servo, Rx and possibly battery.

As the model I am building is a IOM type (GIF 65), I am wondering what capacity battery is typically used to supply and drive 2 servos and the Rx?

Which brings me to the servo torque required. I have been considering if the pile of Futaba S128 and 148 that I have, essentially unused, although not knowing what torque levels could be used?

Oh! I nearly forgot, thanks for all the replies. Much appreciated.

[Malcolm FraryParticipant @malcolmfrary95515]

If by IOM type you mean a bare looking racing type boat, then near enough but you don't want IOM size recommendations for a 65cm yacht, which is very much in RG65/DF65 territory.

For this size, especially if the hull build is heavy, 4 or 5 AAA size rechargeable cells will do the job. Highest capacity you can find in that size pack.

https://www.componentshop.co.uk/6v-aaa-950mah-flat-battery-pack-low-self-discharge-type.html

Looks about right, or the 4 cell version.

Sail servos. There have been many yacht designs that tout their ability to use a standard servo to operate the sail. I have yet to find one that works in wind strong enough to power the boat unless it is sailed very sympathetically. Component shop and others do servo size sail winches with varying degrees of travel. Work out the difference in control line length (in inches) between full in and full out, divide by pi, and you know how many turns you need your 1" drum to turn. Higher torque arm servos do need good batteries and wiring.

An exception was the XL25/Akela from the late '80's, but that had a semi balanced swing rig not needing as much force to operate.

Rudder servo. DF65 use a small servo (can't remember the number off hand). In a home build you could use a standard one.

[Dave Cooper 6Participant @davecooper6]

Carl – at some stage or another, you'll regret having no /limited internal access – it becomes a real pain…

I would say, Rx, Battery, Motor (if fitted) and shaft coupling plus, rudder linkage access of some sort is a must. If a yacht, then sail winch servo access is also desirable I'd have thought.

A little thought now can save a lot of grief later on ! Hatches /coamings held in place with small screws etc can do the trick (you'll hardly see them when the boat is on the water).

I sealed the inside bottom and sides of the RAF launch with sanding sealer, followed by a rub down, and two coats of model aircraft dope – thinned 50/50 with cellulose thinners. No doubt there are other methods too.

Cheers,

Dave

[Dave Cooper 6Participant @davecooper6]

Forgot to mention the launch's superstructure (one-piece) is held on with two rubber bands and a paper clip….

Rudder /Linkage access is via a small screw down hatch.

I can post some photos if you're stuck…

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